How to make decals look real?

I've heard, but have not tried, that when all the setting solutions fail to just use plain old white vinegar. Don't remember where I read that, probably somewhere on this forum, but supposedly that is the nuke where all others are just Mk. 82's.

QUOTE: Originally posted by MikeV Gunney, I paint the model, wait 48 hours, coat it with Future, wait 48 hours, apply the decals and setting solution on them, wait 48 hours, put another coat of Future over the entire model again, wait 48 hours, apply your washes, wait 48 hours, then give it a final coat of clear flat. It takes over a week to go through this process but I think it is worth it as it minimizes the chance of lifting from underlying coats of paint, etc. Mike

......always lQQking for new and better modelling "stuffs".....(i've found some kit decals not reacting to the MicroScale decalling system the way i'd like) Aeromaster did for a while produce a set / sol solution which seemed a little stronger........& then one fine day a railroader suggested stuff called "Champ"........yet a little stronger still as a sol solution.......and finally Solvaset......which like y'all have suggested and imo will make cardboard conform...........but, above all.......no matter what you use........the primary ingredient in this or any process.......is p a t i e n c e..........

I use Mico-Sol and a lot of cussing

cool, I gotta get some too... I've used the MM or Testors stuff with limited success... Time to break out the big guns!

QUOTE: Originally posted by bstrump Thanks for posting that Mike. I guess I should really do the same and have both around as well. The reason I keep saying Solvaset is that is what I was first exposed to and that is what I've stuck with. I was fortunate to have an experienced modeler show me how to make it work for every application.

That is all I used to use also and I imagine it will work in all situations if maybe diluted with a bit of water for delicate decals. I know that some of the newer decals are so thin that the manufacturer's do not recommend Solvaset be used on them, but that is up to the individual to decide. I prefer to start with the Micro-Sol and if after two or three applications it doesn't seem strong enough, then I put some Solvaset on it and show it who's boss.

Mike

Thanks for posting that Mike. I guess I should really do the same and have both around as well. The reason I keep saying Solvaset is that is what I was first exposed to and that is what I've stuck with. I was fortunate to have an experienced modeler show me how to make it work for every application.

I will take this opportunity to post a warning to those who have yet to use this stuff. A little goes a long way so use sparingly! Once applied to the decal, DO NOT TOUCH until the decal is dry.

QUOTE: Originally posted by gunney well i ment to say that testors doesn't work so ill try the solvaset when i get a chance to get some.

Gunney,

I would try Micro-Sol first and if you need something stronger then get the Solvaset.
You could also just buy both as you will need them both down the road I would imagine.

Mike

well i ment to say that testors doesn't work so ill try the solvaset when i get a chance to get some.

Thanks guys for mentioning the setting solutions! I completely forgot to mention that and besides, you gotta leave room for others to comment as well!

And Gunney, if the testor's works for you that's super but most people find it a bit on the weak side. I personally use Solvaset for everthing I do.

Gunney,

There are several decal setting solutions that work well, try out some Micro-Sol and Micro-Set and see if you like them. They are fairly cheap too.
I use Micro-Set if the surface has only a slight depression that the decal needs to snuggle into, and Micro-Sol if it is more pronounced and needs more softening. If the decals are thicker and Micro-Sol does not work well enough, then I get out the Solvaset and try it. This is the strongest setting solution out there I believe so test it on an unwanted decal from the kit on a scrap model first to make sure it doesn't make the decal come apart.
I agree with the advice everyone has given so far as that is what I usually do.
I paint the model, wait 48 hours, coat it with Future, wait 48 hours, apply the decals and setting solution on them, wait 48 hours, put another coat of Future over the entire model again, wait 48 hours, apply your washes, wait 48 hours, then give it a final coat of clear flat. It takes over a week to go through this process but I think it is worth it as it minimizes the chance of lifting from underlying coats of paint, etc.

Mike

QUOTE: Originally posted by Butz Hey Gunney, To be honest, to achieve a realistic look, after applying a few light coats of gloss, I use what is called Micro Set and Micro Sol. These help the decals to adhere to the model as well as help them conform to the odd shapes, bumps, rivets,panel lines and ect. Then once the above have been applied, I give it a coat or two of flat. From there if you prefer, you can add weathering to em to make them look even more realistic. You can find the Micro Set and Micro Sol at your local hobby shop or at Squadron. Hope this helps out a bit. Flaps, Mike

Is that stuff better than Testors setting solution, because i have some and it does work.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Foster7155 Agree completely with bstrump! Additionally, if you decide to do any type of weathering with washes or pastels, make sure to put your decals on immediately after your basecoat (and gloss if needed). That way, the decals will receive all of the same weathering as the rest of the subject. On armor models this almost guarantees that the decals will blend in. Enjoy your modeling...

bingooooooooo......again........LOL
i have to 3rd this......with of course in the process......utilizing at least a decal sol solution to help the decal snuggle down.......

Hey Gunney,
To be honest, to achieve a realistic look, after applying a few light coats of gloss, I use what is called Micro Set and Micro Sol.
These help the decals to adhere to the model as well as help them conform to the odd shapes, bumps, rivets,panel lines and ect.
Then once the above have been applied, I give it a coat or two of flat. From there if you prefer, you can add weathering to em to make them look even more realistic. You can find the Micro Set and Micro Sol at your local hobby shop or at Squadron.
Hope this helps out a bit.
Flaps, Mike

Or...... ditch the decals completely and use dry-transfers. No silvering, no decal film, no gloss coat needed, and they look better.

Agree completely with bstrump!

Additionally, if you decide to do any type of weathering with washes or pastels, make sure to put your decals on immediately after your basecoat (and gloss if needed). That way, the decals will receive all of the same weathering as the rest of the subject. On armor models this almost guarantees that the decals will blend in.

Enjoy your modeling...

What I do is to give the model another gloss coat after the decals are dry .This seals the decals as well as "smooth over" the decal film. Then I lay on the flat topcoat. I've found this hides the decal film a lot better than flat coating directly over the decals. I assume this is what you mean by looking "real". Hope this helps.