Decals...

I usually clip my tweezers on the backing paper, hold it in the water for about 30 seconds (and the water needs to be just slightly on the warm side, not hot but not cold either), then sit it on a paper towel until the decal will slide around on the backing paper. While it's on the towel I usually brush some Micro Set on the model where the decal is going, and by the time I get that done the decal is ready to go in place.

Thanks MusicCity. How long do you let the decal sit in water to lift it? I'm sure that is a variable based on the manufacturer, but is all you have to do is let the paper backing get soggy and that is enough?

Not a stupid question at all, but my recommendation is DON'T carry the decal anywhere. Once it will slide around on the paper backing (I always hold the decal by the paper backing with a pair of locking tweezers) slide the decal over to the edge so it is just barely off the backing, rest the edge of the backing on the model and slide the decal off onto the model surface. Micro Brushes are great for that, a Q-Tip with the tip cut off so you have a paper stick works OK to.

Probably a silly question but here goes. I am building an Academy CH46 and there are lots of decals. I get the general principles as to how to lift the decal off the backing with water and then use microsol and microset to set the decal in place. My question is how do you get the tiny decals off of the backing and to the location it belongs? In other words what do you use to 'carry' the decal from the paper backing to its resting place?

Thanks
Joe

I tried the Q-Tip idea, and it works better, but I still have some silvering. I must be doing something wrong or you all have alot of patience...
I'll keep trying untill I get some gloss, see if it is just my own error.
Thanks for your patience everyone,
Mike

Yeah, they are a pain. I built an F-105G earlier this year and on the stores alone ((2) AGM-45 Shrikes, (2) AGM-78 Standards, (1) 370 gallon centerline tank) I think I counted something like 120 decals. Luckily after you learn a few basic tricks they get easier to deal with.

If your decals were on the plastic itself, the silvering was caused by air underneath when the decal dried. Once I get a decal in place I take a Q-Tip and roll it over the decal to squeegee the air out. If it is pulled across the decal they tend to move when you don't want them to, so try to roll it across the decal. Even so I still get a little bit from time to time. Everything is a learning experience, don't let it get you down.

Well, I tried popping the air out with a pin, ended up ripping the decal... and the silvering didn't go away... Good thing it was only a practice! I am putting the decals directly onto the frame, I didn't paint it or anything. I don't live in good distance of a hobby shop or the like, so I need to wait untill It fits into my plans to get gloss, hopefully that will work.
These little decals are a pain...
Thanks for your help,
Mike

That frosty appearance is usually called "Silvering" and it is normally only noticeable in clear areas of the decals. It is caused by air being trapped under the decals when they dry, and the most common cause is putting decals over flat paint or a rough surface. Always apply decals to a glossy surface. If you want a flat finish you can always use some flat clear to get that. If you use flat paint, put a couple of coats of Future floor wax over it before applying your decals.

I don't know of a good way to get rid of silvering. Some of the other guys might have some tips or you can do a search for the word "Silvering" in this area of the forum. If it is just bubbles you can poke them with a pin to release the air, then put another coat of MicroSol over the decal.

I did try the Micro Sol Decal Setting Solution, and now the decals stick very well, I followed the directions on the bottle, and the clear part of the decal that I shouldn't see has a frosty appearence. Any help on this part of it?
Thanks again
Mike

Well, Mike, I'm not the best at painting either, so I fully understand not wanting to make a second attempt at it. Usually, unless my first attempt is terrible, my following attempts are worse! And I have never tried painting numbers or anything similar. It's beyond my abilities.

I'm no helicopter expert, but if you just need tail numbers then there are often decals with just numbers, letters, etc. on them, so there might be no need to have them custom made. There are also 'dry transfers', instead of the traditional water decals, and these come in numbers too.

Again, the helo experts can probably help you out best. Best of luck in your quest.

Mark

I meant I am not very good at painting, which leads me to not wanting to paint the model because I don't want to wreck it, it's cheap but I don't feel like doing it again... I did paint it though, and I think it looks fine, maybe a little egomanical, but hey... When I said I couldn't paint, I was inferrng that I did not want to paint the decals on, which I though would be the only way to make it look good. I am going to try some 'setting solution' and see if that works well. I will try to find some aftermarket decals, but I do want my tail number on it, so I will probally need to get that custom.
Thanks for your help,
Mike

First of all, Mike,

When you say you "can't paint," do you mean you don't paint your model, or (like me) you do paint but don't quite have the technique down? The reason I ask is that decals don't adhere well to non-painted surfaces or to flat paint. They need a glossy surface, so either gloss paint or a gloss finish (like Future floor wax). Otherwise, the decals tend to "silver," so that air pockets occur between the decals and the model surface, which makes them look unrealistic.

As MusicCity said, there are aftermarket decals that the helo guys might know about. If you still can't find the decals you need, there are individuals who make custom-make decals (a gentleman by the name of Mike Grant comes to mind, and I've heard he does excellent work).

Hope this helps,

Mark

Decal setting solutions such as MicroSol, Solvaset, etc. are very good about thinning the decals and making them look painted on. Most hobby shops have at least one brand. The solutions are applied after the decals are in place, so you are still in good shape. They frequently cause them to wrinkle badly when the solution is applied, but the wrinkles will smooth out and the decals will look a lot better.

There are dozens of aftermarket decal makers. There is a list of some of them on the modeling links page on my site: http://www.craigcentral.com/models.asp I don't know if any of them make decals for helos, but you can look around. If you don't find anything try posting your question in the helo forum. Those guys will know makes some good ones.