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Decaling balsa models?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 11, 2005 9:22 PM
I only put on two or three coats of the dope, then a base coat of paint, and the others colors of the camo.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 12:31 PM
I'm going to ask a silly question here: How many applications of dope did you apply to the model? I've had some models which I applied 6-7 coatings of dope and when I applied the decals, the covering was waterproof enough so as not to cause any wrinkling or warping. Otherwise, I would almost think that what you did should work out. If the tissue wrinkles then it should stretch taught again when dry.

Eric

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 5, 2005 10:42 AM
Well I didn't use any solvents because I wasn't sure how well they would work or if any thing would get damaged/warped. So basically I only used water.
Did everything as usual with the soaking the decals in water but before I put them on I blotted them just to get as much of the extra water. Then slid them on, blotted some more. That's when the tissue paper started to wrinkle so I just let everything dry so nothing else got damaged. Does that help?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 28, 2005 10:07 PM
could ya tell us more about what you did with the application of the decals ? what solvent did you use.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Decaling balsa models?
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 28, 2005 7:58 PM
Does anyone have any tips for decalling those tissue-paper-on-balsa-wood-frame aircraft models? I tried building one with the decals but the tissue paper wrinkled up and sagged, then when it dried pulled tight again but caused the decal to wrinkle instead. This was after I doped and painted the model. Is painting the markings the only solution?
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