Decalling help.

anyone?
I just need some opinions and advice to get me started

Gunze is a good brand. I use micro-sol because its available to me. I've tried others too and they do work, some are stronger than others.

Nail polish remover is usually thinned down acetone, will eat thru your paint. I find scraping with your fingernail usually will do the job, especially if you haven't sealed it.

Thanks a lot, been waiting for a reply!

Do you have any other advice for hard-stuckon decals that cannot be simply removed such as using non-acetone nail polish?

Try cellophane tape - rub it on the decal and then quickly removing it. It may take several tries, but it should remove most of the decal. A wooden stylus or your fingernail will usually take care of what's left. - it usually works for me.

Sometimes the decal softeners (micro-sol, Solvaset, etc) will soften the decal enough that you can wipe it off with a clean rag or paper towel, and is very safe on the paint. I have never personally tried to decal a die-cast car, but I would first wash off any oil or grease that may have come from your fingers that will contaminate the surface. If the decals are still not adhering properly, you could lay down a coat of future which will give the decal a very nice surface to stick to. Also sometimes it takes a few applications of a decal setting solution to get a decal to conform to curves. Patience, patience, patience. Also do not allow the decal to set in water too long, as you may wash off the glue. I always soak my decals for 10 seconds in hot water, then let them sit on a paper towel for another 3 seconds to absorb some of the excess water. Some people will put a little bit of micro-set on the model first, then apply the decal, but I always apply micro-set after the decal has dried....it is up to the user, and how bad your decal needs it. I use toothpicks to help position my decals, and Q-tips to push the decal onto the surface and absorb any excess water/solution.

Sorry no one replied right away, for some reason this post slipped through my radar. If you need more help, post some more, and I will try to keep a vigilante watch!! Good luck!!!

thanks for replying info kik 36 im in the dark of the decal things too

Decals are tough to nail down, and trust me I still have plenty of problems...lol What I did to accelerate my learning curve on decaling was to build the coolest race car with the most decals.....It ended up being the Tamiya Acura NSX. I would recommend getting a kit just to practice decaling to anyone.

I've successfully (whew) completed my 2 conversion of my mild seven and marlboro livery. It was hard to get the hang of at first and my car took some of the toll from my first few attempts. On the first attempt, I used a low concentration of vinegar solution to soak my decals. Put a dab of Mr. Mark Softener on the spot and slowly used a needle or toothpick to push and pull the decal off its paper and on to the desired spot. I found it that the decal would fall apart or fold when I applyed it to the surface. (tried it 2x and failed) On my third attempt, I added the softener AFTER I positioned the decal and it worked like a charm. The 2nd problem came when I added my 5th decal. After I applyed the decal on one side, I started on the other one. I soon found that I had accidently touched the decal on the previous side and ruined it so I wiped it off. Carefull with your decals!! Another problem I found was that if you apply too much softener on one spot, the decal will start fading and fall apart, so adding too much can be harmful.

Hope some of my experience will help you out!

Any advice to help me become a better decal is welcome. (changes in sequence, technique)

Couple of the questions brought up from the project was:
how to stop decals from folding, stop them from ripping, easier way to position the decal and what should I use to position the decal (toothpick, q-tip)?

Any replies are welcome

The only thing I found for decal success is being real careful. If I ripped one I try and reposition it best I can. I don't use softeners unless I am going over a sharp curve or some kind of detail that I want it to conform to. Also let them completely air dry before you handle your project alot, after that they're pretty durable....