Acedemy

Academy decals aren't that great. The most common problem is not getting them to stick or stay on. Use warm water with a few drops of Elmer's white glue and liquid dish soap. Make sure to apply decals over a gloss surface, but this gloss surface can be acrylic, enamel, or lacquer. Also make sure you soak the decals until you can move them from the paper backing. If they won't move, dip the decal back into the water for a little longer and try again.

You can contact Academy to get replacement decals. You can send them a letter, or you can go through their site, www.modelrectifier.com. You can also but aftermarket decals from any of the manufacturers available. www.greatmodels.com, www.squadron.com, www.aeromaster.com, and www.meteorprod.com are all great sites to buy from.

www.modelingmadness.com has a whole section of decal reivews which is helpful for seeing which ones you want to buy.

Another trick is to apply the decal over a spot of Future. Just brush it on where the decal will be placed and lay the decal on top of it. Works every time. Other than that, I use a mixture of Solvaset and white glue. Finally, make sure you only dip the decal in water long enough to get the paper wet. Then place it on the bench while the adhesive activates. If you leave it in water too long, you run the risk of diluting the adhesive. Hope all of this helps.

Thanks a bunch for your advices;)

With both Academy and Hasagawa, I avoid using the kit decals as much as possible.  I usually replace the decals with AM  decals (in other words some other scheme than is furnished by the kit).  In the few cases when I want to do one of the schemes in the kit, I will use those decals that are particular to that version (ie personal and/or unit markings) from the kit and replace all others with AM (ie national insignia, numbers, letters etc).  Plus AM decals usually offer you a choice of up to 6 different schemes on each sheet.

i wonder who they get their decals from 

i mean more than likely they out source the decals like many co. do

icm has same problem

they must get a lot of complaints but maybe they don't listen

maybe academy ( model rectum-fier corp) can't hear with their heads up there

for me Academy decals = EVIL I hate them I gave my Stuka the works but they still come off!

With Hasegawa, I have found that Mr Mark Softer is the only decal solution that will work.

I have not tried it with Academy yet but I have been told that it does react better than Microscale's products.

 

yes ive found that they breack easly and are thick i agree with with everones

DURR wrote:

i wonder who they get their decals from  i mean more than likely they out source the decals like many co. do icm has same problem they must get a lot of complaints but maybe they don't listen maybe academy ( model rectum-fier corp) can't hear with their heads up there

The website says they are made by Cartograf in Italy