Micro set and Micro sol

hi kp80. 

Actually, I'm not printing my own decals at all.  I was talking about kit-supplied and aftermarket decals, both new and ancient.  And solid color sheets I have, some of which are 15+ years old; I cut custom decals from them using hand made stencils, layering different colors.  Some of the older sheets want to fracture when I cut them, new knife blade or not.  So liquid decal film has been a godsend.  I brush it on, and it evens itself out as it dries; ready to use in 30 minutes.

I'm intrigued by the computer decal systems.  I just don't know.  I feel like I already have enough machines complicating my life.

Pinkboy,

Just curious if you're printing your decals on inkjet or laser.  I saw that kit in the micro-mark catalog, but read somewhere that the micromark inkjet paper didn't work so well, but the laser did.  Conversely, I read that the testor's inkjet paper was better.  Since I don't have a laser printer, I opted for the testors.  The only problem I had with it so far was printing thick letters with black ink.  The ink developed tiny cracks as it dried.  I solved this by using a very dark gray color, and the letters came out very solid and crisp.  Thinner black lines are no problem.  My printer is a Canon S300.

hi guys.  I'd like to plug a different brand of decaling system that I've been using lately.  I got it from the Micro-Mark catalog (tiny tool specialists) and it's called Micro-Mark Decal System.  The full system package includes "setting solution", "softening solution", "gloss coat", "satin coat," "flat coat", and one that they call "decal film".    First you gloss coat your model, then apply the decal with the setting solution, let it dry, then use the softening solution, which snuggles it into panel lines and around compound curves, let it dry, and then overcoat it with whichever finish you want, gloss, satin, or flat.   I like their finish coats better than the others I've used.

The "decal film" is to correct decals that want to fracture.  It only takes one coat, and the resulting decal is still very thin. 

Basically, the decals have to go over a gloss surface so you don't get 'silvering', those tiny little air bubbles that show up when you try to put the decals on directly on flat paint.  If you use gloss paint, then you can skip the future and go right to placing your decals.  According to the posts in this thread, as well as the instructions on the bottle, sol goes over the decal once its been placed, while set can be used under it, over it, or both.

So let me get this right you put the Clear coat (future) first then decal, then Sol I was under the impression that micro-sol well one of the things it did was bond to the paint would the futrue cuase problems if you put that first.

I'll confirm the fact that the set under the decal made it a little harder to slide around, compared to just using water.    I went to using distilled water only, placed the decal over gloss, gently squeezed out any air bubbles, brushed on some set, let dry, then clearcoat.  It worked pretty well.  Surface was uneven, and the set alone worked fine to make the decals conform, did not need the sol.  I did need the sol to conform to the evergreen siding, though.

The homemade decals look pretty nice and laid down pretty nice.  Now I'm going to get creative...

wolfpac wrote:

This is interesting because I have found that applying Set under the decal makes it harder for me to relocate the decal.  Do you apply a clear, then decal, then clear or do you decal and then clear?  I have been applying a clear coat then putting on the decal, than another clear coat.  I wonder if that makes a difference?

wolf, sorry I'm getting back to you so late. You are correct in saying it does make relocation a little harder, but I've found a generous puddle of it under the marking allows enough time for me to get it into the right position.....so it's clear cote (future), micro set, decal, micro sol, more future, then a flat cote if necessary.

Thanks guys, you've given me some ideas here.  I recently made some custom decals with the testors film, and they are a little thick.  I'm applying them on a surface of Future, which I put down over the paint.  I have some 'spare' decals that I'm going to test first, including one that I'll put down over a scrap of gloss painted evergreen siding.  I'll see how they take.  Sounds like there may be some variables involved and I'll let you know how my experiments come out, even though you guys are already experienced with these products.

Last week, i took one of my homemade decals and put it on a piece of unpainted evergreen siding.  I basically put it down with water only, then with the water gone from the surface of the decal, brushed on some sol.  the decal appeared to soften and wrinkle, and i thought it would conform to the grooves, but it dried and sort of flattened out across the grooves.  I'm going to brush another coat and see if it settles down, but again this is on an unpainted surface, and a kind of thick decal.

more to come...

ruddratt wrote:

From my experience, the micro-sol is more aggressive. When I apply my decals to a glossy surface, I'll brush on the -set, apply the transfer, roll it out with a wet cotton swab, and then apply the -sol. Hasn't failed me yet. By applying the -set under the marking, I find it easier to move it into position before the -sol is applied.

This is interesting because I have found that applying Set under the decal makes it harder for me to relocate the decal.  Do you apply a clear, then decal, then clear or do you decal and then clear?  I have been applying a clear coat then putting on the decal, than another clear coat.  I wonder if that makes a difference?

From my experience, the micro-sol is more aggressive. When I apply my decals to a glossy surface, I'll brush on the -set, apply the transfer, roll it out with a wet cotton swab, and then apply the -sol. Hasn't failed me yet. By applying the -set under the marking, I find it easier to move it into position before the -sol is applied.