Decal 101............AKA decaling for dummies

First, let me say that I am far from a decaling expert, but I will tell you some of the things that I have picked up from reading these boards and FSM's magazine.

From my understanding, there are at least 2 ways you can go with this:

1) before applying the decals, you can either spray the entire surface with Future Floor wax.  Decals like to be applied to smooth, flat surfaces - something most models surfaces are most decidely not.  You can also brush Future onto the local area.  Then you can apply Future to the top of the decal to set it.

2) Use polly scale micro set (decal solution).  Apply to the area where the decal will be applied, slide on the decal and apply more solution on top.

Both of these will help eliminate decal silvering.

-Fred

   Yep, pretty much what Fred said-

     I give the whole model one or two coats of Future, then apply the decal using Future as the decal setting solution. This kinda sandwiches the decal between coats of Futures.  The key is to have a nice glossy smooth finish for the decal to adhere to.  Then afterwards you can flat coat it for that nice dull flat military finish.

Just wanted to add that dispite doing all the correct steps listed above, you will get silvering once in awhile - a factor of the decals themselves more than anything I believe. If its a few spots, you can open up a hole with a pin and then put decal solution in to try to get those air pockets out. Wont always work, but worth a try.

While were doing a "decaling for dummies" seminar, let me throw out a few questions.

I know about using and the differences between setting solution and solvent solutions.  I also know that setting solution is nothing more than white vinegar.  I've also heard that solvent solution is basically 90% alcohol.

So my question is this; is 90% alcohol the same as denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol or is it something else all together?

I'm 100% for finding common household repleacements for over-priced specialty items.  For instance, denatured alcohol ($5 a quart) to replace Tamiya acrylic thinner ($8 for 8.5oz) and white vinegar ($.79 a quart) vs. setting solution ($4 for 1oz).

Thanks,

Fred

     I always thought about looking for, or writing up my own "equivalents chart" that lists all the brand name chemicals and what good substitutes would be for them, I.E. white vinegar, mineral spirits, acetone, lacquer thinner, 91% Isopropyl Alchohol (which I believe is different from denatured alcohol), ammonia, etc.  Then we could sticky it and post it up somewhere prominent.   Not sure I've enough experience yet to pull it off though.  I wonder if we could start a thread to that effect, then compile it into one big chart?

household rubbing alcohol is different than denatured. It has nasty smelling stuff in it and is not as pure. Denatured alcohol you can get in gallons at paint stores and some hardware / home improvement stores. It is sold there primarily as shellac solvent, but obviously has a multitude of other uses. If you havent tried the denatured it is almost void of odor, and quite strong in function.

They are different types of alcohol chemically. You are correct that household is isopropyl, whereas denatured is an ethyl.

Well, we should start a list here and once we have a decent enough list, we'll approach the mods about making it a sticky.

I'll start with a few and then everyone can add ones that they know about or alternatives to ones that are already listed

acrylic thinner  -  Denatured alcohol (aka shellac solvent/thinner)

decal setting solution  -  white vinegar

decal solvent solution  -  90% alcohol

These are the ones I know about, so if anyone has others to add, list them here and then we'll start up a new thread once we going somewhere.

-Fred

     Hmmm...

      Acrylic thinner-Windex w/ ammonia or straight ammonia.  Also useful for cleanup, say after airbrushing.

    Acrylic thinner- distilled water also, if I'm not mistaken, works for this. 

      Enamel thinner- mineral spirits (also a good airbrush cleaner for enamels)

     Future thinner- 91% alcohol  (although I brush my Future on straight, unless I'm dipping canopies)

       If any of the above is not accurate, somebody let me know.

I know you can also thin and clean up Future with Windex w/ ammonia.

Whenever I'm done spraying future, I always run windex through the brush and then some airbrush cleaning solution (looks like pink dish detergent).

-Fred

I would also ask what kind of decals you're using.  Some decals just aren't thin enough to snug down like we'd like them to.  I've actually sanded some kit provided decals with fine sandpaper before just to get them thinner. 

I've used 91% alcohol for thinning my Gunze Acrylics for years. 

I've yet to try it on the Model Master stuff, but my next a/c is getting nothing but MM as a test.

91% will clean just about anything, including your nasal passages, so be careful! 

As far as one of the earlier posts, I don't believe that decal SOL and alcohol are the same thing, because my paint schemes would be eaten apart if it were.  It goes straight through most acrylic finishes that I've come across.

Auntie Matter wrote:

do not use denatured alcohol to thin acrylics! my

Any particular reason why?  Were you using a particular brand of acrylics?  A lot of people recommend denatured alcohol as a suitable thinner, so I'm just wondering if there were a specific set of circumstances that caused you to have a bad experience.

-Fred

Here's what I do, based on advice from this forum and Paul Boyer's wonderful articles on this subject over the years. I use Micro Set and Micro Sol as my decal setting and "snuggling" solutions:

Use the Micro Set first. Then coat the decal with Micro Sol (if needed). The Micro Sol will cause the decal to wrinkle. Don't panic! That's normal, and the decal should snuggle down to the model's surface nicely. Don't touch the decal while it's wrinkled.

Here's the sequence I use from bare plastic to painted and finshed:

What I'm doing looks more like this:

1. Prime (usually with a flat spray enamel)
   
   
2. Paint (usually with Testors MM Acryl paints)
   
   
3. Future (can be brushed as well as sprayed)
   
   
4. Micro Set -- use a brush and put small puddle of Micro Set where the decal is going to go.
   
   
5. Decal -- only soak the decal for a few seconds in warm water  -- just enough that it starts to slide from the backing. Then use a moist q-tip to slide it onto the model. I sometimes nudge the decal with a toothpick too, but I'm careful to not tear it.
   
   
6. Micro Sol (while decal is still wet -- about 10 min. after putting decal down).
   
   
7. More Micro Sol -- for decals over raised detail. Repeat as needed until the decal is really snuggled down. Poke pin holes over air bubbles and apply Micro Sol on them too.
   
   
8. Future -- for a gloss over coat. Tamiya flat base can be added to the Future to make a semi-gloss or flat top coat, but I've not done that for my models yet.

Of course, leave plenty of time for drying between most of the steps. Steps 4-6 can be done in about 10 minutes per decal, but the rest of the steps require some drying time.

One key is to not soak the decal for more tha a few seconds in the water. Take it out, and let it sit for a few more seconds before putting it on the model.

I don't profess to being a super modeler, but you can see how the Micro Sol helped the decals on my Glencoe MB-2 snuggled down into the (somewhat overdone) rib detail on the wings. It also helped the decals wrap around the back of the rudders.

.

.

Regards, 

for "enamel thinner" - theres really a handful of options there, and knowing the difference may be helpful.

Most common is probably straight mineral spirits. Though if the scent bugs you there is odorless sometimes called OMS available. Lacquer thinner works very well for the MM enamels and can be useful in cleaning brushes if they get a little stiff as it will melt the cured paint if left on very long. That being said, for airbrushing, lacquer thinner could be used to make very thin, light coats that flash off fast since it will flash much quicker than mineral spirits. There is also a retarder thinner (different variant of lacquer thinner) that flashes much slower and is useful if you want a slower dry - to level a finish, or to avoid blushing if its very humid out.