Seven years ago I was lucky enough to be able to get a custom-built, detached workshop set up in my back yard. I specified three windows for natural light, and three simple, screw-in light fixtures in the ceiling (which is 10' x 20'), in which I put 100-watt halogen bulbs. The original bulbs are still working.
I needed some additional light directly over the workbench. For that purpose I bought (at Lowe's) a cylindrical "workbench" fixture that hangs on two chains from the ceiling, and has two skinny, cylindrical glass halogen bulbs, one at each end. One of those bulbs burnt out some months back, and I haven't been able to find a replacement that fits. I'll probably have to give up and buy a new fixture.
One big consideration to keep in mind is the effect of light on the human eye's perception of paint colors. In comparison with sunlight, incandescent light tends to emphasize the red/yellow end of the spectrum; flourescent light emphasizes blues and greens. Halogen is similar to incandescent, but seems to be a little more "objective." (Halogen bulbs also get really hot. I haven't found that to be a problem, though.) Ideally, it would be nice to be able to predict the light in which the model is going to be displayed, and built it under the same kind of light. Practically speaking, I find the combination of halogen light with sunlight coming through the windows is more than acceptable.
My own preference for taking pictures of models is "constant lighting," as opposed to flash. To take good flash pictures of models requires that you know considerably more about what you're doing than I do - and good strobe units aren't cheap. The digital revolution has simplified things by making it possible to see your mistakes immediately, but for this particular form of photography I still prefer old-fashioned blue "photo bulbs." They can be bought at any good camera store, or via the web. (Two good, big suppliers: www.adorama.com and www.bhphoto.com .) They do get hot, and they don't last long - typically three to five hours. When you're taking pictures of models, though, that's a long time. I like to plug my light fixtures into a "power strip" with a switch built into it, and turn the lights on only for a minute or two at a time.
One tip when using photo bulbs (I hope I don't insult anybody's intelligence here; if so I apologize): don't rely on your camera's auto white balance setting. Do a "custom" white balance setting, by taking a picture of a white sheet of paper under the photo bulbs. The camera manual will show how to do it. Otherwise you're likely to wonder how your models happened to turn orange (or green, or heaven knows what other color).
Hope that helps a little. Good luck.