Putting together a modeling tool kit. Whatchya all suggest?

One suggestion.

For knives. Instead of buying xacto type art knives, get 9mm snap off utility knives.
Not only can you get blades made with better materials for those, you can snap off the dull blades more often (all knife blades will go dull) and always have a sharp knife to use for much less costs.

This place has some hard to find japanese modeling tools. (not my store, I bought from him and was pretty happy with what he had to offer)
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Muramasas-Closet_Tools_W0QQ_fsubZ624440012QQ_sidZ7586852QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

I use a nail sander. Dremels are pretty fast and sometimes too hot.

And glues, the right adhesive for each job.

Some of the basics have been mentioned others have not.

Hobby knife

Files

Pin Vice

Razor Saw 

Low tack tape (Blue Painters, Tamiya Model, Shure Tape Razor Edge, Frog)

Rubber Bands

Small Clamps (assorted types)

Metal Straight Edge

Assorted Glues (Model, Ca, Epoxy, Solvent)

Assorted Brushes

Paints

Putty (Squadron, Bondo, etc) 

Pencils & Pens (for marking)

Sand paper and sanding sticks 

Dremel Type Power Tool  with assorted tips

For Air Brush get a good double action

I prefer top feed myself and use a Iwata HP-C 

Other things can be added as time goes on like decal setting solution, sprue cutter, PE bending tool(s), Epoxy Putty, etc...

Eric... 

cuzimthedad wrote:

Okay, I'm getting back into the hobby after 30 years and want to get up to speed tool wise. Money is not an issue as I believe good tools are half the battle. I would like recommendations on what I'll need to get started and also for a good air brush and compressor...something without to much of a learning curve. Thanks in advance! Dan

My fellow modelers already covered the common tools, but I reccomend looking into dental tools(since I've gotten them I don't know how I lived with out them). Dental tools have precision ends and have a number of uses for every tool. You can find them at scientific stores, or even your friendly neighborhood dentist.

For getting started, you probably don't need to have as elaborate a tool set as many of us. Just the basics will probably work for now: a hobby knife (with plenty of extra blades), small round and flat files, sanding sticks, glues, paints and brushes, some kind of putty applicator for filling seams (I use a separate knife with a dulled #11 blade); a small ruler or square. You probably don't need the Dremel tool or the fancy airbrush right now; obtain them as the need arises. This is how my tool kit came together: one saw, one pin vise, one whatever found its place on my workbench over time. You may eventually wind up with a bunch of things that you don't use very often, but when you want them...Easily half my tools fall into that category. Clamps and clothespins--you can't have too many of those! You will definitely need a good light! (Don't have to worry about light pollution on the workbench.) I use a fluorescent desk lamp with a daylight-spectrum tube. Incandescent Reveal bulbs are good too, but my problem with incandescents is the heat they produce tends to make paint dry too fast as I brush it on. (This may be in part because I live in hot, dry Phoenix.)

If you can set up a separate workbench for modeling vs. using the dining room table, that would be best, too. Preferably with a lot of storage space--you can never have too much storage space! Or buy a fishing tackle box (get a large one, like the Flambeau Outdoors Model 2059 Hip Roof Box--this thing has no fewer than seven storage trays. One of these days, I've got to learn to use a digital camera so I can post photos) if you have to use the dining room table and need a place to store tools.

Stay away from the power tools... They can ruin weeks of work in seconds.

Good Brushes. I have some that I think are from Gunze that I like

Good sprue cutters

A selection of knives.. I think I am up to 6, almost all with different blades.

Small files

Pin Vise and bits

thin, medium, thick super glue (known as CA)

A tool box that is far bigger than you think you will need

Lead fishing weights

Modelling clay

Sand Paper (variety)

Sanding sticks (variety)

Razor Saw.. I think my is from JLC or something

Sheet Styrene (even if you aren't a scratch builder you will need it eventually)

Drafting Pencils (for marking stuff)

Self-healing cutting mat

A selection of tweezers and forceps.

Great lists from lots of people above.  Just to add to your list of things to look at try these on for size.  They are all at MicroMark but I'm sure you can find similar items most places you like to shop.  I added this to keep this message short.  The sanding pads I use ALL THE TIME along with the sanding sticks.  You will find a lot of use for the sissors as well.  Happy shopping!

Stay away from the power tools... They can ruin weeks of work in seconds.

Power tools don't ruin work, it's the Tool using it that ruins work... A Dremel or other motor tool, although not essential, is one that will leave you wondering how you ever lived without it..

That said, here's my list, aside from the standard knife, blades, side-cutters, razor-saw, and such:

Mini bench-vise. Get one that clamps or screws to the bench.. The suction-types don't work.

"Extra Hands" soldering tool with magnifying glass.

Soldering pen.

Miter box

Pin vise w/bits.  Buy several of each size.  You WILL break the ones that you use the most.

Bench light

2x reading glasses or opti-visor.

Micromark has this on sales for less than $4.  Item #: 83545.  Cheap way to get 3 handles and some starter blades to tryout. :-)

When I work with putty (Both for filling and sculpting) I use Games Workshop Citadel's Sculpting Tool. I do reccomend it!!!

For putty;

I use Tamiya Putty Basic Type for gap filling ad such, and Games Workshop's "Green Stuff" for sculpting...

Have tweezers been mentioned yet?

I prefer the fine-point ones (I bought from a jeweller's tool store; I know Taiya sells some similar stuff). If I were given the choise, I'd prefer tweezers with rough (not serrated!) grips, but so far I've only found tweezers with serrated or polished grips.

Doc 

CNicoll wrote:

Micromark has this on sales for less than $4.  Item #: 83545.  Cheap way to get 3 handles and some starter blades to tryout. :-)

 Four bucks?!  Nuts!!  I picked that very set up at a flea market last year for five, I got taken!

But that leads me to my suggestion, about where to find tools, apart from the online or bricks-and-mortar stores.  I look at flea markets, I've found someone at pretty much any one I've gone to, selling:

Dental picks and probes, and also stainless steel scissors and tweezers/forceps

Small file sets

Steel rules (straight edges), which are useful

Rotary tool bits, both single pieces and in sets

Also look around if you happen to visit expositions and shows for builders or woodworkers.  You can probably find someone there who sells tools in bulk, and if you do, it pays to rummage through the tables.

Having said that, I agree with all of the previous suggestions, I have at least one example of each of the items listed.  I'll add that you may want to get a good container for your tools, like a small tool box or a tackle box.  I use a pine tool box that I got at Dick Blick's, but I wanted that, so I could stain and finish it.  It has a liftout tray with two compartments, and that's where most of my small tools go, and then I have a store of paints in the main compartment.  Of course, there's stuff I have that is out on the bench most of the time, but generally I try to put everything that I can away when I'm finished for a session.

Most every tool has been mentioned; I have a few that are much less used, but invaluable nonetheless, when needed. Trick is to hit the store as soon as you discover the need for a tool, and buy 2 more while you're there. Working the models will leave you with mental lists of things to get / look for the next time you are tool shopping. If you don't see it, make it yourself. Then, tell us about it.

However, one tool not yet mentioned, that I think would be wise to get into the habit of using, is your digital camera. Open up a free image hosting site, such as Photobucket, and start taking your in-progress shots. Post those shots here, and let the advice from the group come pouring in. The folks on this forum are here to help and be helped. Posting pics, and taking the comments back to the workbench, will speed up your learning curves, and improve your modeling skills very quickly.

Just my humble 2¢.

I noticed lead fishing weight's mentioned here, presumably for nose weights?

As an alternative, you can use self adhesive automotive tyre balancing weights, they come in handy strips of 2x5Gr + 2x10Gr + 2x20Gr & are of course self adhesive.

Bandaids...

Also consider:

Straight and curved hemostats (mosquitoes), a set of fine pliers (including long needlenose), straight and/or curved iris scissors, small 6" metal ruler (metric/inch), fine curved and straight pointed forceps, and a dial or digital caliper.  When looking for hemostats and forceps, make sure the two closure ends 1) meet together (aren't offset), and 2) close completely (no gaps).

Gip

OOPS! Seems forceps, metal rulers, and scissors were already mentioned.  Sorry.  I will now report myself to the Committee on Redundancy Committee.