Basic tools for PE

I use really really good tweezers. You can also use a spot of modelers clay on the end of a toothpick to hold the part while placing it. Or cut a razor thin piece of masking tape and wrap it sticky side out (overlapping as you wrap) around one jaw of your tweezers or toothpick. You need just a minute sticky spot to hold the PE without it going sailing. A little spit can work too.

Hi ,

Have been reading this thread with interest and was wondering what experienced modeellers use for placing fine pe detail into position. I have been using different types of tweezers but find them difficult to place fine detail stuff especially cockpit detail ( The amount of times i've had parts fly out from between tweezer jaws r to numerous to mention hehe) .

Are there any other methods of pick and placing fine pe detail or any different types of tooling that i can use or try?

 Any help or advice appreciated.

 DT

HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

Rob Gronovius wrote: Before we had the Etchmates and Hold-n-Folds, we used the 6 inch steel rulers and a single edged razor blade (slightly dulled). I used the chisel bladed X-Acto knife to cut the PE off of the fret on a flat piece of aluminum (about 6x8 inch) I acquired sometime in my travels. I demo'd that in my blog. I like heavy plate glass instead of metal.

A set of hinges work pretty well too.  Someone (Panzerguy??) mentioned that is what he uses on another thread, so I gave it a shot.  Worked fine.  I used the same type of clamp that you hve to pinch the hinge onto the part.  The hinges cost my 2 bucks at Wally-Mart...

I've been using Tamiya's PE Scissors, File and Bending Pliers: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74066diamondfile/index.htm

I really like the bending pliers.  The jaws are beveled like the edges of a Hold-n-Fold or EdgeMate for 90 degree or greater bends.  They are also "spring-loaded" so that you can open and close them quickly. 

You can find all three tools online for around $50.00.

-Jesse

Rob Gronovius wrote:

Before we had the Etchmates and Hold-n-Folds, we used the 6 inch steel rulers and a single edged razor blade (slightly dulled). I used the chisel bladed X-Acto knife to cut the PE off of the fret on a flat piece of aluminum (about 6x8 inch) I acquired sometime in my travels.

I demo'd that in my blog. I like heavy plate glass instead of metal.

Thanks for the replies!

I was afraid the metal would chew up my sanding sticks, but good to know I should be ok.  I have a dremel tool and plenty of disks, so I may give that a whirl too.  I just ordered the Xuron's from Sprue Brothers (I recently bought their new sprue cutters so I know Xuron produces some good stuff...and the price was right too.)  Jumping onto Squadron.com right now and getting the smooth jawed pliers and the PE sheet.

Brian

The Xuron PET Shears are worth their weight in gold IMO.

If you visit my blog (link below) you will find a series on working with PE and the tools I recommend. You have to select the tools that best suit YOU and your needs as a modeler. Sometime this means shucking out the bucks for quality. What works for one person may not work for the next guy. But having learned the hard way...it pays to investigate how others do it. Given the price of PE sets, having the right tool to do the job the right way saves money in the long run.

I use my rotary tool to sand PE, you can find out how I do it by reading my blog posts on Modeling with Photo Etch. 

Your considered Xuron PE scissors may be overkill.   I've found a very effective tool for removing PE from the fret is a plain old #10 Xacto blade (the rounded one) on a piece of hardware store bathroom tile (49 cents).   A #11 blade is useable, but the point breaks easily on the tile.   Put the point of the #10 blade beside the nubbin which holds the part to the fret and press/cut in a rocking motion.    I've found that a piece of dark tile, as opposed to white is easier to see the PE against.    You can put the whole thing in a large zip-loc bag to minimize the part from flying into oblivion when cut.   The choice of spending your money on a specialized tool or on a general one which functions as well is up to you.

The smooth-jaw pair of pliers is a good choice.  

As far as a special file to remove the nubs from PE, instead of buying something with a model manufacturers logo,  consider something which is widely available.   My favorite tool here is a sanding stick from Sally Beauty Supply.  They sell them as nail files.   A fine to extra-fine grit does the job.  They cost less than a buck -- and I got a 5 dollar off coupon in yesterdays mail.   I'm going to replenish my stock this weekend. 

Your 6-inch steel rule is good.  Another thing to look at is a 3 to 4 inch scraper blade in the paint department at the hardware store.   The Hold-n-Fold people used to include one in their tool,  but you can get extras if you look around.

Another item you might want to look at is glue.   I use Aleene's Tacky Glue from the craft store to tack the parts in place.  It grabs quickly, yet allows time to reposition the part as necessary.  It is water soluable -- so cleanup is some water on a Q-tip.    After you are satisfied with the position, then commit to CA for permenant attachment.

For measuring, a pair of draftsmans dividers is excellent.   Adjust the thumbwheel to the correct spread of the legs.  Then use that to transfer the measurement directly to your part.  You don't go through the process of guestimating from a ruler - then transferring that to the part to be cut.