Testors glue whats the difference

The blue tube is non-toxic, doesnt include toluene.  More kid friendly I guess.

The red tube is toxic, includes toluene.  Better strength people say.

I much prefer the red tube, tastes great and less filling.

KIDDING!!!

Actually, I don't like tube glues except in those rare occurrences when I need strong initial tack. But when I do, I use the red tube. Just don't breathe in the fumes and use in a well ventilated area.

The liquid cements (Testors, Tamiya, Tenax) are so superior that comparisons with tube glues are virtually impossible. They work best by capillary action. In other words, place the pieces together and then add the glue by brush to the joint. Holding the parts slightly apart is best as the capillary action will "pull" the glue into the joint.

Bgrigg

I much prefer the red tube, tastes great and less filling.

KIDDING!!!

Actually, I don't like tube glues except in those rare occurrences when I need strong initial tack. But when I do, I use the red tube. Just don't breathe in the fumes and use in a well ventilated area.

The liquid cements (Testors, Tamiya, Tenax) are so superior that comparisons with tube glues are virtually impossible. They work best by capillary action. In other words, place the pieces together and then add the glue by brush to the joint. Holding the parts slightly apart is best as the capillary action will "pull" the glue into the joint.

Great post, Bgrigg,

I'm a new convert to liquid solvents, and wouldn't use anything else at his point...

One addition, though,

Look around either your LHS or online for Creation Unlimited's Touch & flow - It's a narrow glass tube with what looks to me as a syringe-needle (cut off at 90 degrees) as its tip. The T&F can literally put a TINY amount of Tenax, etc. EXACTLY where you want to put it - no fuss, no mess(like a commercial) Costs about 7 bucks, or you can buy a kit with the T&F, a filling bottle, and a bottle of Pro-weld - Good stuff!

Bgrigg

I much prefer the red tube, tastes great and less filling.

KIDDING!!!

Actually, I don't like tube glues except in those rare occurrences when I need strong initial tack. But when I do, I use the red tube. Just don't breathe in the fumes and use in a well ventilated area.

The liquid cements (Testors, Tamiya, Tenax) are so superior that comparisons with tube glues are virtually impossible. They work best by capillary action. In other words, place the pieces together and then add the glue by brush to the joint. Holding the parts slightly apart is best as the capillary action will "pull" the glue into the joint.

Great post, Bgrigg,

I'm a new convert to liquid solvents, and wouldn't use anything else at his point...

One addition, though,

Look around either your LHS or online for Creation Unlimited's Touch & flow - It's a narrow glass tube with what looks to me as a syringe-needle (cut off at 90 degrees) as its tip. The T&F can literally put a TINY amount of Tenax, etc. EXACTLY where you want to put it - no fuss, no mess(like a commercial) Costs about 7 bucks, or you can buy a kit with the T&F, a filling bottle, and a bottle of Pro-weld - Good stuff!

Bgrigg

Actually, I don't like tube glues except in those rare occurrences when I need strong initial tack.

I don't even own a tube of glue anymore.

If I want a strong tack I use Zap-A-Gap CA, otherwise it's Tamiya thin and Tenax.

Soon I am going to switch to Weld-On #3 I think.

I keep a red tube of the stuff around and actually use it a couple times a year. It's got a bad rep but if used correctly it's good stuff. It works a lot slower than most glues and the key is giving it time to work. Apply sparingly to one surface then squeeze the two together. But don't stop here! Pull the parts apart again and stick them back together and continue to do so until you see the plastic start to melt then stick them together and leave them.
If the parts you are assembling can turn against each other when assembled that works great too. Small dab of cement then stick into hole, spin a few times until resistance is felt then position the parts and leave them.
If you just squirt it on, stick the parts together and forget about it chances are those parts will not stay together long. I'll use the stuff in the rare case I need something to stay put but I can't hold it for whatever reason.

People today use the popular liquid cements and for good reason. They are superior in just about every way. Wick into seams, melt plastic much faster and are therefore faster to use. No stringy mess to deal with. And the tube glue stinks up the whole room when you pop the cap.
But millions of models were built with the stuff and it still works today.
I've tried to take apart models that have had the stuff used on them and sometimes they come apart just fine. Wrong technique. I'vealso tried to take apart some of the models I've used the stuff on and it's not happening without broken parts.

None of the above applies if you have the blue tube. That stuff isn't good for anything but making me want to eat oranges and giving the room a nice citrusy smell.