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What kind of solder do you use?

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  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Winamac,Indiana 46996-1525
Posted by ACESES5 on Saturday, May 1, 2010 12:43 PM

Wing Nut: yes your right but if taken care they will last for ever, the electronics industry discovered resistance soldering guess what happened to the price on thoes soldering sets.Upupupupupupup they went in price.                        AcesesEats

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 2:18 PM

And old train guy recently told me the same thing.  Kind of pricey though. Unless I am looking at the wrong thing.

Marc  

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Winamac,Indiana 46996-1525
Posted by ACESES5 on Tuesday, April 27, 2010 11:35 AM

Brian: Here is an old trick I learned when I was still into model trains,try resinstance soldering you will use less sololder and get cleaner joints. American Beauty makes an excellent soldering set, give it a try I think you'll like it you can use core or coreless solder.                                 Aceses5Big Smile

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Connecticut, East of the River
Posted by tlivancso on Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:22 PM

Hello,

I found that the best solder to use with PE is called Tix Solder, you can find it a Micro Mark.

http://www.micromark.com/TIX-SOLDER-PKG-OF-20-3-STICKS,6707.html

There is also a seperate flux as well that works great.

 

Cheers,

Thom

IPMS Member #42958 /  AMPS Member #2091

IPMS Central Connecticut (President)

IPMS Northeast Military Modelers Association (Web Master)

Like Alice "I try to believe in three impossible things before breakfast"

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, March 8, 2010 9:09 PM

Hey Brian,

I just found another article which may be of interest.

http://www.indy-amps.org/articles/soldering/soldering.html

Of note is this section:

Solders that contain rosin (or some kind of "core") flow easily everywhere there is metal and enough heat. Solders that do not contain flux tend to stay put when melted. This property of rosin is what you exploit to get good results soldering PE. Use a rosin core solder on PE and you have an uphill battle contoling the solder flow. It will be very hard to keep solder from covering up detail and your joints will be huge silvery blobs. However, if you use carefully applied rosin flux and a core-less solder, you can prevent solder from getting into places you don't want it. I recommend practicing on some etch fret to see how the two types of solders behave before your first attempt on actual PE.

I hadn't thought about that aspect, but yes, when you heat rosin core solder, particularly in situ the flux boils out in a puddle around the joint.

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Monday, March 8, 2010 8:08 PM

Excellent Phil, that clears up a few things.  Thanks!

Brian

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, March 8, 2010 7:37 PM

Hi Brian,

I think the recommendation about not to use rosin core solder is because it often leaves an unsightly burnt plasticky residue around the joint.  Most solders commonly used in electronics applications are rosin cored.

Commonly, solder is a mixture of lead, tin and copper. In electronic applications, you will also find "silver solder" which is a mix of silver, tin and copper (no lead) which has a higher electrical conductivity (less resistance). "Lead Free" solders are commonly tin/copper.

Lead free and silver solders generally have a higher melting temperature than solders containing lead, and I believe you need an iron-clad tip when working with silver solders.

I believe that using a separate flux provides a cleaner joint in that any residue is more easily cleaned, compared with rosin fluxes. Also, the fluxes are somewhat corrosive, the purpose being to clean the joint to allow the solder to flow and adhere to the metals. This is not ideal in an electronicv application, hence the use of rosin cored solders where the flux is "contained" to an extent.

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Monday, March 8, 2010 7:18 PM

Hey modelchasm,

If your interested here is the article I found that mentioned which solder NOT to use:

http://www.ipmsrichmond.org/resources/IPMS%20Richmond-Soldering%20Photoetch.pdf

And then of course a few weeks later I got my latest issue of FSM and Rick Lawler has his article in there (but makes no mention about which solder is appropriate).  I ran a search on Radioshack.com to see what they have to offer....and the answer is about 3 dozen different brands/types.  A lot of it with rosin in it too.  Hmm......

Brian

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Monday, March 8, 2010 6:01 PM

I don't think that I can answer your question about which solder to use, but I too am interested in trying this out. Seems like it would be good to use solder on PE screens as when using CA I've gotten some glue stuck in the small holes w/ no way to clean it out. With solder, at least you could reheat it and try to flow it out ...

We'll have to do some more research to see if I can find some more answers ....

Maybe you guys at FSM staff have some answers???

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Monday, March 8, 2010 5:51 PM

The bond is much better.  You can deform parts more relaisticly on armor builds, and you have more leeway when assembling.  It is pretty much the same deal for anything out there in the world, CA glue is good for some things, but not others, soldering is good for something but not others. Big Smile

Brian

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Monday, March 8, 2010 12:45 PM

What would even be the purpose of soldering PE parts? Why can't you just use CA glue on them?

The only solder I have ever used has been rosin core but I only use that when I install a car stereo in one of my vehicles. I use that with my solder station and it works great. PE parts on the other hand I don't understand.

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
What kind of solder do you use?
Posted by New Hampshire on Sunday, March 7, 2010 11:58 AM

Thinking of trying soldering for PE projects, more so after reading Rick Lawlers article in FSM.  I found an article about this topic on the internet and the author says to avoid anything with a rosin core or with a Flux core.  True?  The FSM article did not mention any of this, so that is what got me wondering.  I see a bunch of other confusing terms thrown in, like "silver solder", "lead free", etc.  Anyone want to help break down the pro's and con's of what is out there.

Also, what is your favorite flux method/product.  I see paste, I see this stuff that comes in an eye dropper bottle and there is even a pen like prodcut that you "write" the flux on with.

Brian

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