MicroMark punch set?

Gigatron

Hey guys,

Recently received a micro-mark punch set and while it does punch out very clean circles, I find the rods to be very tight in the holes...Should I give them a quick rub down with some AB lube ...

"That's what she said"

Sorry, I saw that, and couldn't resist doing my Michael Scott impression.

I have the MM punch set, and I've noticed the same thing.  I haven't tried using any kind of lubricant, though, and I don't use it for instrument dials, only for punching holes in plastic sheet.  Is "AB lube" alkyl benzene lubricant, and is it a liquid or jelly, rather than a dry material?  I can only imagine that it would have some effect on decals, if it's in some liquid or semi-liquid state.  How about powdered graphite?  I don't know that graphite would permanently mark the decals.  Graphite on styrene shouldn't be a problem; I use pencils to mark plastic sheet sometimes, when I don't want to scribe.  But again, the liquid/semi-liquid lube might have an effect on styrene, if it contains any kind of solvents.  I think benzene is a solvent.  I don't know if it's present in quantities to act quickly on the plastic stock, but I'd want to clean the stock as soon as possible after punching it, just to be sure.

Hope that helps!

Brad

LOL - I was wondering which joker was going to be the first to pick up on that.

AB lube is just AirBrush lube.  Probably the same gunk as no.9 gun oil and the lube I run through my paintball marker.  I believe it to be a silicon base, but I could be completely wrong.

I also have honing oil for knife sharpening.

-Fred

I think some of the "AB Lube's" marketed are just Gycerine?

Maybe I misunderstood but why are you pulling the punch out? I don't have the micro punch set, mine are  larger, but they're still a very tight fit. Once I've punched a hole I tap the punch all the way through the die plate.

Tony

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Wingman_kz

Maybe I misunderstood but why are you pulling the punch out? I don't have the micro punch set, mine are  larger, but they're still a very tight fit. Once I've punched a hole I tap the punch all the way through the die plate.

Tony

Is there really a difference which way you remove the punch from the plate ?  Whether I pull it from the top, or punch it all the way through, the point is, they're really tight.  Besides, how do you tap the punh out?  If you're working on a table, there's only a few mm between the bottom of the plate and the table.  Seems just as easy to pull as it is to hold the plate in the air and try to bang the punch, through.

-Fred

infotechproximity

Hey everyone, I am starting an online business within the next few days and I need to apply for a credit card. I know everyone has different requirements for what makes a good card. All I want to know is if anyone has suggestions based on previous experiences that you have had. Any suggestions will help.

-Thanks everyone
I am in major need for a WordPress developer.

I am having major issues with my theme that i am using, and need some help fixing issues. Hope that someone here can help.

If you have any questions or comments please contact me at the address given below.
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Me thinks this might be in the wrong place LOL

-Fred

Yes, it is easier. From what you said you're punching decal paper so there isn't a lot of added resistance but it's still there. A punch and die cuts by stretching and tearing. When you punch a hole, either in paper or plastic or metal or whatever, it creates a burr on the slug or disc and the sheet it came from. How much of a burr is determined by the clearance between the punch and the die. As you drive the punch through the paper or whatever the burr is rolled down over the edge of the die and when you try to pull the punch back up the burr grabs the punch. Then it either slips across the burr or reverses it, pulling it up. That's what makes it harder to pull out.

You already have the mallet, hammer, whatever in your hand and are probably steadying the die plate with your other hand.  Lift the die plate or tip it on one end and tap the punch through. I haven't used that punch and die set so I don't know but normally the punch would be hole diameter far enough up the punch to guide it through the guide plate and into the die plate then there would be a slight reduction in size so that once you've tapped it through that far it would then fall through. Your's may not be made that way, I don't know. With paper it's not that big a deal if they aren't. If you punch some brass or aluminum sheet and there isn't a step down in the punch you'll probably have to drive it through. It may even do that with plastic sheet. The smallest punch I have is .062 and even though it's only a couple of thousandths there is a step down in the top part of the punch so that once it's pushed the slug/disc out of the die plate it will fall through.

Yes, however they're made they are a tight fit. It has to be. If the guide plate were a loose fit on the punch that would allow the punch to hit on the edge of the die and chip, or at least dull, either or both. The amount of clearance between the hole in the die plate and the punch is determined by the thickness of material it's intended to be used with. Less clearance for thin materials, more for thick. Punching thin material with clearances for thick will give you more of a cup than a disk and the edge of hole in the sheet will be rolled over. Punching thick material with clearance for thin may break the die, chip the punch or make it extremely difficult to get the punch out.

You asked if there was an easier way, I tried to give you one. I've tried to explain the why. Whatever works for you. 

Tony

I have this punch set and have used it steady for a year.The punches are tight at first but loosen up with use. Try to designate the striking end and keep that consistant. Use a buffer between the striking face and the hammer ,plastic , wood  , to stop mushrooming the striking head. I would not lube or use any thing on the punches. I have pulled the punch out and pulled it through. Good set and will last a long time with proper care and use.