It's tool kit tip time (again)

Modeling use for microwaves? To warm up my coffee and make nachos and other junk food to eat while building. I also melt wax and Scupltyclay in it when my wife isn't around.

I guess I could just refilter my coffee, since I end up accidently cleaning my brushes in it instead of the solvent most of the time.

I use my scanner to make masks for decals, camo schemes & wheel wells. I scan the part, and since the scan is the same size as the part, I print it out on heavyweight paper & cut the shape. I have also used it to scan instrument panels, & make dials in Photoshop. I print this on premium gloss photo paper & mount it to the rear of the panrl, after drilling out the dials. Looks as good as photo negative instruments.

I also use a coffee filter to buff the plastic surface after sanding. It gives a high gloss, and I can see flaws without the need to paint over the seam.

I haven't found any uses for a microwave, either.

If your cat gets into your models, the microwave can come in handy (if you're out of claymore's)

Eric

I'm taking my claymore to Iraq with me but some det cord and some consertina wire do wonders for critters of the two legged and 4 legged variety.

sure you use the microwave to kill parasites in dirt for dios.

and the perfect easy to find tool of all: the toothpick. (oh I guess you guys all know about that, don't you?0

don't worry about me, I just don't have any exotic tools.

OK, although I haven't been into serious model building long, only a couple of years, I have tried a couple of things which may or may not be new to some of the old time pro's.
For clean edge lines that curve or follow the body profile, I use vinyl electrical tape, which adheres real well and gives a real clean edge to the paint break. The tape can be cut in half for real tight curves. I don't advise leaving it on any longer than necessary, and make sure the paint surface it is applied to is good and dry or it will pull it off when the tape is removed.

For a novel body filler for filling in cracks and joints, I have used a dremel gringer on some excess resin pour molds to produce a fine resin powder. I then took some of the powder and mixed it with plastic cement to form a thick paste. Apply it quickly to the joints to be filled, as it dries very fast. When dry, it is very easy to sand to a smooth and hard surface. An added bonus to this is it adds strength to the model.

Nail buffer/shapers from the chemist/drug store.

Much cheaper than buying the ones sold for modelling, and you get exactly the same results!

Being a railway modeller I often find items for my military modelling in the local model railway shop, stuff like handrail wire, etched ladders, buildings, suitable for both Europe, the UK and the US. It pays to look outside of the normal sources of modelling materials!

Karl

Modeling use for microwaves. I use my nuker to heat bowls of water to help remove warpage from resin parts. I run tap water at about 140 degrees F then boost it to 180 degrees F then soak my resin parts in it. After about five minutes remove the part (using tongs) and straighten - hold in place until cool or hold in cold water if possible and new shape is locked in place.

Old film canisters. Great for mixing and storing custom mixed paints.

Soda pop bottle tops - a really cheap paint mixing cup.

Modelling use for microwaves ...

I build wooden ship models (is that OK here?) and the microwave is great for bending planks.

Soak a face cloth and wring out the water until it is damp, not dripping but not too dry either. Wrap the plank stock in the cloth and nuke it for 30-45 seconds. When done, clamp the plank in a form until it dries, which is pretty quickly. You just have to be careful because the cloth and the wood get hot as .

Ed.

Hey, do you have any pics of wooden ship models you've built. That sounds pretty cool and I'd like to see one done. My girlfriend likes ships, maybe she'll get inspired enough to start building also, then I won't have to hear complaints when I buy a model or some paint.

Madda - -
Sorry for the lateness of this reply, but I only get time once a week to do my thing with the various forums I read.
Unfortunately, I don't have any photos that I can scan yet, but I'm working on it ... alot of this technology is still new to me. We still have a rotary dial phone!
[:0]
Ed.

Here's a tip for making your own sanding sticks.

3M makes an adhesive called Spray 76. You can get it in small spray cans at Home Depot and such. Spray it on the back side of any grit sandpaper you choose and stick it to a strip of styrene. Trim the edges and there you have it.
You can choose the flexibilty by the thickness of the styrene.
Just make sure it is Spray "76". They make others like "77", and "90", which won't work for this purpose. The 76 is also sold in smaller cans.

I too use finger nail polishing strips as someone else here mentioned, but one of my most useful filing tools is a diamond nail file. It has two different grits on either side. Great for filings seams and trimming flash and sprue stubs. Only about $3.50 at your local drugstore.

I've also used Alumilite Microballoons mixed with a slow set CA for filling seams. It sands much more easily than straight CA.
NOTE: This is not the same Alumilite that hobby shops sell in their crafts department. This is a light powder looking substance used in the fiberglass industry. You can get a lifetime supply for about $8 US.

later, stinger