HORROR OF HORRORS - HELP!!

I am sorry about the double post. Don't know how it happened... If there is a moderator out there with editing powers please feel free to delete.

hey there - i've never had my punches rust that bad...who knows why. i have had other things rust though, and i've soaked them in wd-40 which gets most of the rust off. they may be a little dicolored but they should still work fine.

to prevent it from happening again, you could leave a coating of wd-40 or baby oil on the punch set while they are stored and just wipe them off when you go to use them.

also micro-mark sells a rust preventer which is a tin of silica gel crystals that you store in your toolbox.

hope that helps. 

http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=rust

Airedale's suggestion is probably the best.

If you don't find any WD-40, then some fine steel wool may save your tools. I have used really fine (#0 and lower) wool to remove rust from parts on a gun before, so it should work with your punch set.

Were you Mexican it would be very simple, because we use an agave derived soft alcoholic drink (pulque in Mexican Spanish) to take rust away, but why don't you try something different with a rusty piece of iron or steel, maybe a nail or a bolt, or something like that.

Place the rusty piece in a cup. Add enough cheap wine to cover it (the cheaper the wine the better). Let it rest for two days, and after it recover the rusty piece and wash it with water and soap. Do not try it with your tool, use something else to experiment, preferably a fine thing to evaluate possible damage.

I wil try with a vinegar which used to be a Bourdeaux wine, but it acidificated at my mom's house, so we will have a two drive experiment. I think a Bourdeax vinegar is too fine, but it is the one I have in hand.

2 things you might try - steel wool, naval jelly(WEAR GLOVES!!) and/or a combination of both...

I've never tried naval jelly on punches, but I have used it on SHARP pruning shears that I thought I had lost; found 'em in the back yard 3 months later, completely seized(siezed?) up by all the rust. An hour of N.J. soaking and a little elbow grease brought them back to "almost perfect"...

Well. I tried the vinegar-wine trick with a couple of boltsnd it worked. You don't need to import pulque from Mexico.

Best regards

Before you spray with WD-40, I got to discurage it.

In a book I have on old engine restoration, and the author was going over stuff to prevent rust.  It turns out, that WD-40 will mainly remove water only, reandering it pretty useless for long-term storage. A light coat of oil or something else designed with "anti-rust" properties will be best, if the punches go back into long-term storage.

I think It may be O.K. to use WD-40, if you will use them on a fairly regular basis now, but I just wanted to pass on the info I got.

Hi all and thanks for the suggestions. Much appreciated. My first choice was to try the Naval Jelly after reading about it on the Loctite page. Unfortunately, after some calling around it became evident that product is not available here in Greece. The WD-40 solutions did not appeal to me, primarily from the overall potential "mess" factor. So I tried the vinegar and it worked out quite nicely. After leaving a tool soaking overnight the rust came off easily with a tissue or soft cloth. The only "downside" - if it really is such - is that the tool became blackened. But that does not seem to have altered the tool's function so I am going to follow this route with the remaining punches.

Again, thanks to all for the help and advice. It's what makes these forums so incredibly useful.

Mario

Just an FYI.... WD40 is "Water Displacement-40th attempt" (40 attempts by the inventor to find a working formula)  It does contain a light mineral oil.

Why does this useless trivia stick in my head but I can't remember where I put my car keys?

I'm glad you are finding us helpful Mario. I'm also glad to hear that your punch set will be saved.

I also agree with you, Jimbot. It seams like you can remember useless trivia, while you forget where something really important is.

Let's see now, useless trivia from me:

  The adverage freight locomotive (i.e. the GE AC-6000 seres, as well as EMD 2nd and 3rd and 4th generation SD and GP seres) can haul a freight train about 430 miles on 1 gallon of diesel fuel.

The names for the EMD locomotive engine (i.e. 537 Prime Mover) signify the cubic inch compression of 1 cylinder in the engine (With the cylinder count anywhere from 12-20)

I can remember stuff like the above, yet I can't find my tools when I need 'em.

While I realize this is an old post, I do have a couple of suggestions that may be of use.

I've been restoring machine tools for a while now. I don't know of anything filthier or uglier or rust-prone than an old surface grinder, though milling machines are a close second. My number one choice as a first cleaner is heavy duty paint stripper. (Read and believe the safety warnings. If you do, it's fine to use.)

The next step is a liberal application of Croil and or automatic transmission fluid. This applies to small parts as well as half-ton machine bases. Let the parts bathe in the oil for a day or so.

If what you have is surface rust, meaning no pitting has taken place, just wiping off the tool should reveal a restored punch. If there is pitting, if it isn't on the working surface, then is a cosmetic issue only. Burlap is a fine, gentle abrasive for the purpose.

If the pitting is handicapping the functionality of the tool, then some remachining, abrasive polishing, or similar pampering may be in order.

Anyone who has a $500 tool chest filled with over $10,000 in instruments (some of which he's made himself) has a keen interest in foiling rust. Old machinist's trick: brush on a coat of camphor oil (Campho-phenique is a readily available source) to the cork or felt lining of the tool box drawers. This oil will off-gas and deposit on tools preventing rust in most cases. To protect expensive custom reloading dies, a nickel-sized piece of cardboard dampened with it does the job in a sealed container.

If you know that your tools will be idle for a long time, I know nothing better than Starrett's M1 in spray cans to protect rustables.

Anyway, I hope my ramblings may be of use to somebody. These measures have worked well for me.