Bought an Anigrand helo the other day. What works best?
CA (super glue) or epoxy.
Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt
"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."
I agree with Hawkeye. Be sure and clean parts to remove mold release, though. That is much more of a problem with resin kits, both in gluing and painting.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Not trying redirect the thread, but I've been wondering if there's a "thin" epoxy out there? Reason I ask is that CA glues become brittle over time (some don't seem to hold well right from the start), so I'd like to use something that will keep all those little bits bonded. The epoxies I've tried to date are all thick, gloppy affairs, and trying to thin them with acetone in the mixing stage seems pretty risky - although I intend to try it.
Is there a "thin-set" epoxy available for PE and Resin details? Thanx!
Perhaps one of the two part casting resins?
mrmike Is there a "thin-set" epoxy available for PE and Resin details? Thanx!
to which dmk replied:
dmk Perhaps one of the two part casting resins?
It may be possible to use a resin, but it WILL be an expensive proposition. There will be a lot of wastage it still may require mechanical assistance such as pins and good clay or tape dams to control the resin. \
Smooth-On's Smooth Cast 305 which is a 5-minute pot life resin costs 25 to 30 dollars per pound (2x pint bottles). That is my local over the counter price. If you do not have a local dealer add shipping costs. I don't have the numbers for Alumilite handy but I'd expect them to be similar. Smooth Cast is a 1:1 mix material. While you can mix in small quantities, mixing in amounts less than 1/2 oz total volume require some precision in your measurement. More is better and more forgiving. Some resins are 10:1 which will really be difficult to do in small quantities. Even with 1:1, too little hardener and the resin remains gooey. Too much hardener and the resin remains gooey . Yes - thats the way it works. Mix more than you need and the remainder is wasted. Can't unmix it or return it to the bottles.
5-minute pot life means that it kicks in 5 to 7 minutes. Doesn't mean that it hardens in 5 minutes. It means that it gets gooey in 5 minutes. It doesn't fully harden for 30 minutes to an hour. I just cast up some small parts and was to anxious. Demolded them too soon and warped them beyond use. They're being recast right now and I'm waiting till the leftovers in the bottom of the mixing cup is good and hard before I crack open the pressure tank.
You're going to have to mix up a half ounce (or more based on the precision of your measurement). Stir it for 30 seconds (in the directions). With one hand hold part A, with your other hand hold part B, and with your other hand quickly apply the now mixed resin to the parts, and with your other hand figure what to do with the remaining resin minus the toothpick quantity used. Hold the parts together for the next half hour to hour while the resin fully sets. Once the resin has set you will still have to sand off the resin which oozed out of the joint. Be careful. Resin is fairly brittle.
You may be better served by drilling holes for pins to align & strengthen the parts then use gel CA on the joint. Add a kick of accelerator . It will be quicker, more accurate, with less wastage and less expense overall.
To get the glue to stick well rough up the surface with sand paper or scribe cross hatch marks on both surfaces to give the glue something to grip.
Pinning the parts also helps.
Try AnchorBond epoxies. They are much thinner than any other I've used. In fact, I find them much too thin for most RC gluing, but they should be just about right for your needs ... and they are available in many set times.
Hope this helps.