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Funny ;
How did you get a picture of the last govt. purchasing agent I dealt with AND his secretary ? LOL.LOL. T.B.
I have been using Tenax 7R for years in my Touch-n-flows... great stuff indeed.
My model Gallery :
https://picasaweb.google.com/109390031478713813496?authkey=Gv1sRgCL7-3pazs9bLFw
Texgunner Hey! Where did you get the pic of my mother-in-law?
Hey! Where did you get the pic of my mother-in-law?
We must have something in common! That is my ex and her mother!
*******
On my workbench now:
It's all about classic cars now!
Why can't I find the "Any" key on my keyboard?
"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"
you can also use duro plastic weld. Hi junkie!
Yet another zombie thread! We are being invaded!!!
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
tenax should be fine.
Thats why I use glass syringes
Thad
Be careful when using syringes! Some are not tolerant of solvents...medicines yes but not the chemicals we use in modeling.
Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt
http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/
"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."
Speaking of syringes and needles, you can get hypodermic tubing mail-order from Mcmaster-Carr, as well as a lot of other goodies! They have an online catalogue and ship same day. They carry Weld-on cement in large tins, some RTV and resin items, casting wax and such. Need 00 size macine screws?
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Have you flown a Ford lately?
I use plain ol' Testors cement in mine. I used to go through many of the T&F's as I just tossed them when they quit! I then discovered that carefully heating just the tip with a match will usually clear it out. Haven't had to buy another for a long time.
Your profile doesn't say where you are located. If you are in the U.S. you might consider checking out Tractor Supply. They sell straight MEK, which is the active ingredient in plastic solvent cements. You can get a large container of it for a good bit less than you can buy cement at a hobby shop. Keep one of your old hobby shop bottles and transfer from the large container as needed.
Something that I use in addition to the Touch-n-Flow are diabetic syringes. This requires that you have a friend who is diabetic or a good relationship with your doctor, since in the U.S. you need a 'script to buy syringe needles, but they are extremely fine and work great.
Bob
Just launched: Revell 1/249 U.S.S. Buckley w/ after market PE and guns.
Building: Italieri 1/35 P.T. 596 w/ Lion Roar PE.
Yes,any thin glue will work with this tool.
To keep it from clogging this is what I do:
After I'm done using it, I use paper towel or tissue paper on the tip so the leftover glue or any residue will be wicked out. Then I run lacquer thinner thru it several times to wash and clean it out.
Like Hawkeye, I use Weld-On 3
I bought a pint about 3 years ago and still have more than half left. I just keep a small Testors paint thinner bottle (cleaned out of course) full of it and use it from there.
http://www.amazon.com/IPS-Weld--Acrylic-Adhesive-Oz/dp/B0046CVPN4/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1294932055&sr=1-6
http://www.amazon.com/IPS-Weld-On-3-Acrylic-Adhesive/dp/B000KZUTEM
It's most likley blocked with styrene, leaving the tip to soak in strong solvent (Celly thinners.....) may clear it - but don't soak the whole TnF as I think certain solvents MAY attack the bond between the tip & the glass tube.
Failing that heat usualy works & fine copper wire can also be used to help clean them.
WWW.AIR-CRAFT.NET
I used to use Ambroid in mine, until it clogged.... On that note, is there a good way to un-clog it?
Jon.http://public.fotki.com/dawgfighter/
You can use any liquid solvent...Weld-On#3 here for me.
Tenax,
Ambroid Pro-Weld (if you can get hold of it),
Flex-I-File's "Plast-I-Weld" http://www.flex-i-file.com/adhesives.php ,
Micro Mark's "Same Stuff" http://www.micromark.com/SAME-STUFF-PROFESSIONAL-PLASTIC-WELDER-REFILL-2-FL-OZ,9002.html .
What have you been using in them? Im almost out of the glue that came with it and wanted to try some tenax?
Thoughts?
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