Large size punches

Here's a picture (First time I've managed to get one to post on FSM successfully!!!). Note that I wrapped the brass hammer with bicycle tape. (A) It gets me a thicker handle to grab. (B) It is a little safer in case I do something totally stupid like attack someone with a 3-oz hammer (Mjölnir it ain't!).

I'm an utter freak when it comes to punches -- my favorite being my Precision Brand set -- but I must also speak in favor of ModelExpo's #TJ7514, "14-pc. Disc Cutter Set", 14 pieces from 3mm to 16mm, 'cause sometimes you need to go metric.

It resembles a scaled-down, double-ended version of a Harbor Freight / Precision Brand / C.R.V. EXCEPT the top plate is stainless steel -- as is the entire unit -- not clear plastic (if I had my druthers, I'd go with clear plastic for visibility).

Two additional recommendations:

(1) Get a brass hammer (or at least a hammer with a brass face). It will pay for itself the first time you accidentally strike a punch's cutting face.

(2) Buy a house number -- "8" by preference -- for use as a work surface standoff. Mine was some kind of hollow metal (plywood might've been better; plastic is useless) so I stuffed it with the highest-density foam I could find.

    (A) You can beat the [dinkywongo] out of that house number and never harm whatever is supporting your punch set.

    (B) The voids are catchments for the punch-outs. Trust me, you WILL want something to contain those wandering discs.

you can also try a cutter compass if you need to cut only styrene sheets or tapes

http://www.barnyarns.co.uk/files/thumbnails/t_21106.jpg

EdGrune

Harbor Freight Tools sells a punch set with sizes between 1/8 and 3/4 inch.    The gap between the two plates is totally managable.  I've punched tape masks directly with the tape slid between the plates with the disk going through to the work bench top.  I've also put the tape on a piece of 30 thou styrene, punched that, and removed the disk from the plastic.

You saw this set at Harbor Frieght Ed? I've never spotter it at mine----but---funny I just ordered that set from Amazon @ $22

Hi everyone,

I've just purchased a set of punches below, and seems to be working pretty good. i am getting a nice clean cut. Thanks for everyones imput and keep the good advise coming.

Many thanks - Leo

zapme

plastickjunkie - I've tried the circle templates but can't seem to get a perfect round finish.

Secure the wheel with tape to the back of the template and center it so its even with the hub or rim. Now spray very lightly, several light coats are better than one heavy one. Works every time for me.  

A trick I learned doing leather work is to use one of those white plastic cutting boards you can find at any grocery store.  They dont damage the punch and they last forever.  Also you can stick the masking tape right to the board while you punch them.

Thanks to everyone who provided input. It was most helpful.

plastickjunkie - I've tried the circle templates but can't seem to get a perfect round finish.

Hercmech - The above punches do look promising. I've seen them in our local store so will investigate further.

Many thanks

Leo

  I use a variation of Don Stauffer's technique.  I use various sizes of brass tubing depending on my need, and a BFH ( big farking hammer).  I lay a strip of masking tape on a self-healing mat, then position my tubing on it and smack it hard with the hammer.  I haven't even needed to sharpen my brass tubing as of yet.  I use this method for masking landing lights and windows on the 1/350 Polar Lights Trek models.

Harbour Freight also has a cheap set of hollow punches that I use. They work pretty well and fit most wheel sizes I have made

Have you considered circle templates?  I use them all the time to paint the rubber rim on German armor, works great. 

Thanks for everyones comments.

Don - I've tryed the brass tube thing without too much success. I just can't get a real sharp edge.

Gerald - I'm heading into town this weekend and will have a look at our local spotlight store.

EdGrune - My mate has the same punch set you displayed. i'm thinking about removing the washers from the opening which should lower the base.

Cheers - Leo

Harbor Freight Tools sells a punch set with sizes between 1/8 and 3/4 inch.    The gap between the two plates is totally managable.  I've punched tape masks directly with the tape slid between the plates with the disk going through to the work bench top.  I've also put the tape on a piece of 30 thou styrene, punched that, and removed the disk from the plastic.

Check the craft store for paper punches...scrap booking section. There are all sorts of punches there! Cheap too.

Add more paper to your stack...fill up the void before punching, this will help keep it still and give you a better overall cut.

I know some folks who use K&S brass tubing.  They grind the inner diameter to a bevelled edge with a tapered stone in a Dremel. I have tried the technique with mixed results. If you are careful in sharpening that edge it does work, depending on the mask material you use.  I believe that stuff goes up to 5/8 inch diameter.  You also need a pad or backing- I used balsa or basswood as the backing/anvil.