Just getting back into modeling after a long layoff.

wow thanks even in all the searches id done this place and those sets never came up so thats a great help!

I have some Testors liquid cement black bottle orange label..thats all i have for the coming build can anyone recomend me 1 or 2 other glues out of the seemingly endless ones available i may want to pick up..OR is the Testors gonna be ok?

Here's some links.

http://migproductions-usa.com/

This one is info about Vallejo paints. go to their drop down search by brand and get Vallejo it will take you to the paints for ordering.

http://www.coloradominiatures.com/infovallejopaints.aspx

http://www.ak-interactive-usa.com/

great info there thanks! That really helped on the names of products your using and DVD's and that..many just say google it lol..you really helped out as Google does not always work that well when its a subject like paint weathering supplies/powders/pigments lol.

Sorry but I've been gone.

I'm no expert by any means but this is what I went with after getting back in the hobby 3 years ago.

I'm using acrylic paints almost 100% of the time. Tamiya is said to be the best for spraying and so far it's worked for me but it's the worst for brushing, for that I use Vallejo, they brush on smooth and come in a great number of colors. They also have Vallejo Panzer Aces paint for military uniforms as well as faces and skin.

For pigments I started out with Mig and they are great. i also got several of their oils and washes as well as their filders. The owner Mig Jimenez left the company and started another one AK Interactive, it has come out with some new weathering products which are great. Mig and AK products are not the same thing and there is room for both in this hobby. AK has a lot of "streaking grimes" which Mig does not have and they look great. In my option they both beat Rustall as far as modeling rust goes. I also have Promodeler weathering pigments. They go on in a different way that Mig or AK and they are also a little cheaper. the name might have changed since I bought from them.

As far as books go, hands down the best on weathering is the FAQ by Mig Jimenez, Vol 1 is out of print and it sells for high dollar on amzon. The good news is FAQ Vol 2 is up for per order on the AL Interactive USA web site, my order is already on.

As for the DVD's of the ones I have the ones that have helped me was Mig's" FAQ the pigments", AK  "winter techniques", "washes, fading and oils" and "Weathering in 1 hour".  I delayed ordering the 1 hour DVD because I didn't think it would help me but it turned out to be one of the best I've got. I can watch Mig do a complete weathering progress on a model.. I learned I was doing several steps at the wrong time and now I' much better.

I also got some books and DVD's on painting figures since that is a problem area for me, I'll get the hang of it soon I hope.

I started out with a Badger Model 200 airbrush over 30 years ago, it's still working fine but I wanted a different one. I went to the Hobby Lobby web site and printed out their 40% off coupton. I bought a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and I love the thing, one of the best deals for 40% off I've ever made.

Kentucky Colonel

Good advie.

I was gone from the hobby for 30+ years and just got back in 3 years ago. So much has changed I'm learning so much more on the net, books and DVD's that I decided to start over and I bought a lot of the new tools, brushs, glue, paints as well as one of the PE tools and a new better airbrush. All of them have helped me enjoy the hobby and do a better job than I ever did before.

 I might have gone over board on the paints, washes and pigments BUT I have them all here at home and I DO use them. I'm starting to enjoy the painting and weathering more than the building, the building of the model was the main thing I liked 30 years ago but now it's the other way around.

 

any advice on what you got or use a lot and where you got it? Im still waiting to see what I get for Christmas but after that im gonna start on that JagdPanther I have :) I want to be ready when I get going...Im especially interested in stuff like the powders and weathering stuff and rustall type stuff that gives so much more realistic look than the stuff I was using(making up) back in the early 1980's. Also what paints are you using and types?(acrylic or Enamel) and books and or CD's...recommend any that are good or were not worth getting

Good advie.

I was gone from the hobby for 30+ years and just got back in 3 years ago. So much has changed I'm learning so much more on the net, books and DVD's that I decided to start over and I bought a lot of the new tools, brushs, glue, paints as well as one of the PE tools and a new better airbrush. All of them have helped me enjoy the hobby and do a better job than I ever did before.

 I might have gone over board on the paints, washes and pigments BUT I have them all here at home and I DO use them. I'm starting to enjoy the painting and weathering more than the building, the building of the model was the main thing I liked 30 years ago but now it's the other way around.

ty im gonna check those out now.

Micromark is a great tool supply place.

Small parts is another.

Sprue brothers has a nice selection of goodies / paints.

My LHS is well stocked with stuff, and I like to use them whenever possible.  If I find a really good deal on the internet, I'll often go in to the LHS & see how close they can come to meeting it.  I don't mind using them if they can get close.

Reid

Get one of those dispensers for your #11 Xacto blades and use it.  I find I use the same blade way too long, and am still surprised at what a difference a new blade can make. 

While I have a varied collection of adhesives, I really like the 5-minute 2-part epoxy.  It seems to adhere different substances together well (like brass and styrene, resin and styrene, etc.) and a little is pretty strong and can withstand a lot of knocking about that other adhesives don't like.  I'll sometimes use the Tenax, or one of it's other brand names to quickly stick something together, but will usually back that up with a dab of epoxy.  Another good adhesive is clear enamel, especially for small PE parts. For clear parts, I like the Testors Clear Parts Cement.

You'll want to get a small package of toothpicks and cotton swabs.  There are lots of uses for them. 

Hope that helps.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas

Thanks for all the help...Im trying to get a kit of stuff together so I dont have to do one of those....I wish I had some...(fill in the blank) then have to wait to get it or try to do it with something else. Figure may as well get the model making kit together B4 I start on the models :) .

CBennett

Yeah, all I have now is the black one with red label(plastic) and I know what ya mean have to clean out the tip relatively often..ive never used any other kinds of glue...honestly didnt know there was much else out there as we dont have a true local hobby shop anymore. I will have to find a place on the internet here to get some supplies to get ready to do this tank when I get it and this Battle Star Galactica Viper model I got for $5 of ebay its the original Monogram model with the crummy (non glass) cockpit but at $5 had to get it :). I may try to get the cockpit kit for it...probably will go before the Jagd Panther also and serve for a nice weathering test bed...maybe even some battle damage..I used to be good at that :) .

 

BTW is there a decent/recommended internet site for supplies like what we are discussing? that is well stocked,reliable, cheap shipping,and above all trusted?

I use a stuff called Tenex- comes in a bottle.  I got mine mail order from Plastruct, but I see that Squadron has it in their flyers.

Yeah, all I have now is the black one with red label(plastic) and I know what ya mean have to clean out the tip relatively often..ive never used any other kinds of glue...honestly didnt know there was much else out there as we dont have a true local hobby shop anymore. I will have to find a place on the internet here to get some supplies to get ready to do this tank when I get it and this Battle Star Galactica Viper model I got for $5 of ebay its the original Monogram model with the crummy (non glass) cockpit but at $5 had to get it :). I may try to get the cockpit kit for it...probably will go before the Jagd Panther also and serve for a nice weathering test bed...maybe even some battle damage..I used to be good at that :) .

BTW is there a decent/recommended internet site for supplies like what we are discussing? that is well stocked,reliable, cheap shipping,and above all trusted?

mitsdude

I just cannot get the hang of that real watery glue that you apply along seams. Even bought one of those Touch n Flow dodads to no avail. I know a lot of modelers swear by this stuff.

Whats that they say about old dogs and tricks?

I have not had much luck with the stuff wicking well along very long seams. It does not give uniform distribution in seams.  On long seams, such as putting wing halves together and hulls of ships, I paint along the seam of each half with a brush (the cement I use comes with a brush on the cap) and then stick the parts together. I only wick the cement in on small short joints.

I've been using (and still do) the good ole Testers liquid cement since the late 50's.

I'm currently using that goofy looking black bottle about 90% of the time. Be sure to get the "Model Master" version. It has a black label. Its also has a metal tube instead of a plastic one (red label). I've left the cap of for several days and didn't get a clog. The plastic tube one is not as forgiving.

I just cannot get the hang of that real watery glue that you apply along seams. Even bought one of those Touch n Flow dodads to no avail. I know a lot of modelers swear by this stuff.

Whats that they say about old dogs and tricks?

CBennett

A newer Xacto knife and sprue cutters are on the list :). Im still debating a compressor as I told the wife what brush id like(airbrush) but it will be something on the less expensive side. Whats a good glue now days the only glue I have around is a black goofy looking bottle of Testors Liquid Cement...it worked on the spitfire I did a couple years back but do i/will I need something different? And ive seen some weathering/rust/dirt type compounds that are newer also...any clue what they are called and who makes them?

I keep five kinds of glue/adhesives on hand.  I use gel CA for most things, but do keep some straight CA for good bond on very tight fitting joints. I keep a bottle of solvent type plastic cement for long seams like top to bottom wing, and hull of ships.  I use the stuff that Plastruct sells. Much cheaper per inch of seam than CA.

I use the Micro Glaze clear window material or equivalent for gluing in transparencies and canopies, except where I am concerned about strength, as when I will be masking for painting. In that case I use epoxy. Having windows or windscreen popping loose and being trapped inside fuselage is the pits.

I have tried all the tricks that people talk about to prevent CA fogging transparent parts, and find none totally reliable.  That is why I use Micro Glaze or epoxy.

A newer Xacto knife and sprue cutters are on the list :). Im still debating a compressor as I told the wife what brush id like(airbrush) but it will be something on the less expensive side. Whats a good glue now days the only glue I have around is a black goofy looking bottle of Testors Liquid Cement...it worked on the spitfire I did a couple years back but do i/will I need something different? And ive seen some weathering/rust/dirt type compounds that are newer also...any clue what they are called and who makes them?

Yeah, there is a lot of new stuff out there, but you do not have to use it.  I use very few of the newer tools and materials.

One change is in putty- the name of it anyway. I always used to use automotive spot putty. It is now called glazing putty at the auto parts stores.

While I made a fancy bending jig I still do most of my PE bending with a small conventional blade screwdriver and Xacto knife. I put the screwdriver blade just behind the bend point, and slide the knife blade up to that point and turn the knife so the blade bends the part.

I did buy a little hobby drill press a couple of years ago- it is nice but I could still continue to use my pin vise. In fact, I still do unless the kit calls for a real bunch of holes which is when I grab the modelers drill press.

Oh, yeah, one tool I bought a year or so ago that is nice is one of those fancy new nippers for cutting parts off sprue.  Much better than electrician's dikes.

I must admit I am shopping for a new airbrush compressor. I am getting tired of the assault on my eardrums from my current one.