gluing transparent parts

After trying Humbrol Clearfix & PVA I have gone back to using plain old tube glue applied very sparingly with a cocktail stick. I use a piece of blue tac (Poster putty in the US?) to hold the celar part so that I don't run the risk of smearing any excess glue with a fat finger.

I've had 0% success with any of the PVA (white glue) formulations. Elmers, Testors, Aleens, etc.

I use clear paint. Bond is not as strong as regular glue but it works for me. Let it air for a while to make it gooey.

Elmer's glue,also Testors makes a canopy cement

I use dilute white glue or something like Micro Glaze which is very similar, except where I need a very strong bond.  Then I use epoxy.

The main place I want a really strong bond is for windows on airliners, some bombers, and civil aircraft.  These are frequently glued in from the inside before gluing fuselage sides together. I find during masking or other operations after gluing fuselage together, that windows can pop in, but it then is major surgery to make repairs.  Something like a canopy can usually be reglued easily.  But if I am doing something like windows inserted from inside fuselage, where it is a disaster if they come loose, then I use the epoxy.

Watch crystal glue gets lots of thumbs up for clear parts. I recently purchased a tube at Hobby Lobby but haven't had a chance to use it.

I have heard that about whiter glue, MS91. And regular cement is likely to cause fogging. I wondered about using Micro-Mark's Liquid PSA. Would this be a better alternative?

Elmer's white glue works very well - it dries clear, but the only hitch is that it does not have a strong bond.