What tools for basic modelling?

This question is rather open-ended. Depends on what you're building, what you like, and your budget.

1. X-acto knife with some #11 blades. Get some chisel tips, too, if you're going to be using photoetch (PE) parts, or have parts that are snuggled up next to the sprue tree.

2. Xuron shears are probably the best for cutting plastic from the sprue. A set of mini diagonal cutters (available from Sears) is good if budget is an issue.

3. Some sanding sticks or blocks. You can get these cheap from places that sell women's beauty supplies. Look in the nail section. Also give consideration to a Flex-i-file set for curves (like barrels, fuselages, etc.). Grits should range anywhere from 320 (coarse) to 600 (fine) for basic modeling. If you're doing cars or aircraft canopies, then look at grits in the 1200-2000 range. Flex-i-file also makes sanding sticks in various grits.

4. Get some good forceps (tweezers). Your fingers can only grasp parts that are so big.
I have several varieties, but the pointed ones seem to find themselves between my fingers most often.

5. Glues. Here it boils down to preference. Testor's liquid cement and Tamiya liquid cement are excellent for joining styrene to styrene. You may also want look at Tenax. Ambroid is a little too toxic for my tastes. In addition, you may also want to investigate super glues, also called CA here on the forum. They're good for filling seams and joining metals to plastic, as well as plastic to plastic. Zap-a-Gap seems to be one of the favorites. You can get it in thin and thick variants. Experimentation is the only way to determine what is right for you.

6. Get a brush to apply glues. Natural hair, round, 1/0 or smaller. Tamiya cement comes with a small brush attached to the cap. It's great. The one that comes with Testor's liquid cement is too big.

7. Putty. This one starts arguments and elicits groans. I personally like Tamiya putty and DuPont red lacquer putty--available at stores carrying auto paint. Others like the green and white putties marketed by Squadron (www.squadron.com). Putty is necessary for covering sink holes, ejector pin marks, glue seams and other flaw in the plastic.

8. Get a pin vise and some miniature drills (#68-80 or so). These are great for--well--drilling holes (gun barrels, headlights, etc.)

The list can go on and on. I would encourage you to visit www.micromark.com
They are miniature-specific in what they sell. Ask 'em for a catalog. You'll find stuff you can and can't live without. Also, visit your local hobby shop (LHS). They'll appreciate the business.

Gip Winecoff

PS After you're done with all the above stuff, you're going to need a Dremel tool, a drill press, band saw, table saw, miter saw, small engine lathe, vertical mill.....

GW

Whoa thanks alot for the help

Well any xacto type knife with changable blades. I've got a nice set but any will do. I've used a cheap one more often then the set. A utility knife might also be useful. Use it for rough work to save on the more expensive blades.

Super glue is pretty useful. A bottle of it and a bottle of liquid model cement (several brands out here) should do that.

To tell the truth I don't use sprue cutters. I've got a pair of wire cutters that do the job. You have to sand there anyway, why use an expensive tool when one isn't needed.

A tube of modeling putty(lots of brands again). Find something easily available. You don't need the mercedes of putty. As long as it dries smooth it works.

Sandpaper various grits- any will work. Pick up a 3 way nail board ($1) and any discount store they work wonders. emery boards are good too.

Paint brushes are an investment They easily go for a several dollars a brush. A few small brushes (2?,1,0, 00?) are the most basic. a trip to Walmart can get a decent set of basic brushes fairly cheap. They will serve a long time well and give you and idea of what you will really use without spending a mint on unused brushes or cheap ones that ruin the paint job. One of those round white pallettes isn't a bad idea but any thing can be used to mix paint. I use the plastic inserts from packs of bacon.

Paintwise(you mentioned it on another thread(armor and Testors/tamiya)I use testors and am better familiar with them) I would look at some of the available model kits to see the basic colors(sands, greens, camo). Then the lesser colors(trim) would be steel, black(flat), white(f),and a few other metalics. Wood, leather, rust and rubber might be useful eventually so they can wait.
Here is the link for Arcyl Model Master http://www.testors.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=47
A lot of times there are paint charts by the display for free. Take a couple. It makes a handy reference for selecting colors and keeping track of what you have. Inks can't always match actual colors of the paint but then again books can't either so it works good for matching what the "printed" equivalent is.
If you want figs with your armor the 4 flesh colors are excellent. They have to be mixed but you can achieve all the flesh tones and subtleties with them(5oclock shadow, veins) since it isn't premixed to a specific shade you'll get more variation for better realism. Any thing else?

Great! thanks to both. Now I got a better idea of what i'm gonna buy.

Glad to help. I think Finescale could create a printable flyer of basic tools etc so beginners could use it to go by of so you could leave a couple copies around for people to see. Hobby shops or even retailers that carry models would welcome it.

This is what i'm ordering.

tam81010 X-10 Gun Metal (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35
tam81301 XF-1 Flat Black (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35
tam35055 M41 Walker Bulldog (Tamiya ) 1 $ 10.00
ha31115 US M4A3-E8 Sherman w/ 76mm (Hasegawa ) 1 $ 4.80
tam87053 Tamiya Putty Basic Type (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 3.35
tam81362 XF-62 Olive Drab (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35
tam81302 XF-2 Flat White (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35
tam87012 20ml Plastic Cement (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.15
Sub-Total $29.70

Any suggestions? I got some of the stuff I need like cutters, sandpaper

I would also get an X-acto style handle that allows you to replace the blade, along with a small package of No.11 Replacements. The precision knife with cap is good to a point. Once it gets dull though, you won't be able to change the blade, and the dull blade will make it more difficult to remove/trim parts.


Just my suggestion. Good luck on that kit, and don't forget to post pics!

A can of spray clear flat could be useful to seal it when you're done. But you've got a while.

STill lookion at the xactos, all of the number 1 knives are gone. So i gotta get something else besides gripster.

For simple cutting and rough trimming I use a simple snap-off blade knife, for fine stuff I use a surgical scalpel with replaceable Blades.

No need to waste lots of money on X-Acto blades.

I also use a Wire cutter which provides a 180 degree cut.

Also get some paper palettes for starters.

In addition to the Sandpaper I would recommend a small file tool set, many companies make them (Tamiya, Hasegawa, etc)

A self-healing(not really) cutting mat.

Tamiya calls em finishing abaraisves. Is this sandpaper??

QUOTE: Originally posted by hotinhereee Tamiya calls em finishing abaraisves. Is this sandpaper??

Yup, same thing. I always get my sandpaper from the hardware store and similar, way cheaper.

You will learn soon that a LOT of modeling supplies are repackaged arts and similar supplies and sold at an inflated price.
If you shop around you can find about 90% of the standard supplies in other shops for a fraction of the cost.

Example:
Compare prices for knifes between OLFA and X-ACTO, both sell very similar items.

You use olfa?

QUOTE: Originally posted by hotinhereee You use olfa?

Yes, I do.

If you do go with CA glue, try to buy accelerator. Spray it on already applied super glue (CA) and it will harden in less than a second or two. But be careful, if some is left on the model, it will immediately dry any glue that touches it when it is wet.

QUOTE: Originally posted by hotinhereee This is what i'm ordering. tam81010 X-10 Gun Metal (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35 tam81301 XF-1 Flat Black (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35 tam35055 M41 Walker Bulldog (Tamiya ) 1 $ 10.00 ha31115 US M4A3-E8 Sherman w/ 76mm (Hasegawa ) 1 $ 4.80 tam87053 Tamiya Putty Basic Type (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 3.35 tam81362 XF-62 Olive Drab (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35 tam81302 XF-2 Flat White (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.35 tam87012 20ml Plastic Cement (Tamiya Paints ) 1 $ 2.15 Sub-Total $29.70 Any suggestions? I got some of the stuff I need like cutters, sandpaper

I find that not having olive drab can be damn inconvinient, so you may want to buy 2 bottles. (besides, you use that color everywhere!) Brushes and thinner too!

Also, Tamiya makes a REALLY good set of side cutters that will last you YEARS. No kidding on this one, i've only had to buy 2 for the 19 years i've been modeling... they're also useful around the house for stripping wires, trimming the wick of your zippo and cutting your fingernails and the like.

You may also want to buy the metal paint stirrers (the kind with the tiny-miniature scoop on one end and a flat surface on the other). They double as a spatula for applying putty.

General household items should be within easy reach of your work bench too, like cotton swabs, alcohol and tissue paper or a rag for wiping the paint off of your fingers.

Is there anything else we're forgetting, guys?

Oh! Where in the heck can i find sandpaper with grit upwards of 1000?? my local hardware store only carries up to 800 grit.

What about clothspins,masking tape, sharpies, and toothpicks.
John

Toothpicks, toorhpicks, toothpicks! For applying CA, stirring paint, and holding small parts for painting, they can't be beat. Disposable insulin syringes are great for applying small amounts of any liquid, especially CA accelerator and paint for mixing. Also, get the best paint brushes you can afford - if it ain't sable, don't buy it. And don't buy paint brushes by mail order. Go to your local art store, seek advice, and examine them yourself. Don't buy lots - if you're building in 1/48 or larger, a good #1 brush should give a fine enough point for anything you're ikely to need to do, and for anything that needs bigger than a #4, you should be using an airbrush - but that's a whole different story. Enjoy!

Oh, and Tamiya masking tape. Nothing else comes close.

Those are all excellent points but don't forget a good work light source so you can see what you are doing! An Ott light works great and gives good color! Expensive but well worth it!

I agree with the Tamiya masking tape. miraculous stuff! Oh, and bull clips are invaluable for holding wings together and twisty-wire things for holging fusalege halves.

Damn, this hobby is expensive!!! I don't see how we can ever get kids to build models if they have to spend this much money! LOL!

I would rather see kids spending money on this hobby, then spending money on silly hondas that sound like sick bumbble bees!!!!!!!!!!


Don't forget, the most important tool is your mind!!!!! Imagination goes a looooooooong way in this hobby!!!!!