Thinning Testors Putty

I haven't used it in years, so did not answer at first.  However, I do think it is a solvent type putty, so indeed lacquer thinner would be my first try.  Just do a test and try it on scrap before putting it on a model.

Whats a good putty to use? One that applies easily, sands easy, and is a really fine and smooth finish. I just want to get through the testors I have so I don't waste anything, but after that I really would just prefer to get something better.

Squadron putty can be thinned with acetone, not sure about testors, but squadron is not nearly as dry as testors is and may be what you're looking for.  I have all but given up on putty though and switched to gap-filling super glue.

Groot

Thanks Groot. I've been looking at the squadron putty because people seem to like that after they thin it down a little. I actually use super glue for some of the larger gaps and areas that need to be rescribed, but I think I personally would prefer some putty (if I find one that works better) for the smaller fixes or for blending a step between parts. Thanks again for the input

I've found that Testor's Contour Putty can be thinned with denatured alcohol.

Derek - For Squadron putty thinning and freshening up, I use Testors or Tamiya liquid cement. A tiny amount, (one drop,) on a small metal dental spatula works wonders, place in tube top and stir around until the desired consistency is reached. Too thick still? Add a bit more. If the top layer of filler is crusty, just remove and toss.

I'll give a big shout out for Tamiya filler, much like Squadron in consistency, but much nicer to apply and it has yet to shrink any amount for me. Although, I only use it when any shallow amount of filling was needed, for deeper areas then I use shredded styrene tiny bits dissolved in liquid cement, fill and wait until completely dry, (about two days.)

Patrick

As far as what is a good putty to use, I use automotive glazing putty, from auto parts stores. It used to be called 'spot putty', but is now called glazing putty- not sure why the name change. I buy it because it is cheap.  Well, a tube costs quite a bit, but these are eight ounce or one pound tubes!  So the cost per ounce is cheap.

One tube lasts me for years, once I got in the habit of putting cap back on IMMEDIATELY after using some. It will dry out very fast if you leave cap off, like any of these putties. It is very similar to work with to the squadron and other brands of modeler's putty.

I found a 2 ounce glazing and spot putty in my Do It Best catalog for $2.29. Probably a lot more expensive per ounce than Don's glazing putty but you wouldn't be out a lot if you forgot to cap it up.

Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty is a good alternative to Squadron putty.

I have a tube of Testors putty that goes back several decades (it has Testors logo with a gray colored background). Even though it is somewhat solidifying, workable putty is still being extruded when I bear down on the tube. I usually start neat by applying it as if it were caulking, but then end up smearing it into place with my finger, in an attempt to fashion it before it dries. Usually successful, I have not had a need to thin it.

Lots of modelers use the red automotive putty (Bondo). Cheap, easy to use, gets the job done.

Testors Model Masters line use to have a tube of what I believe was the exact same thing as the Red Bondo. I've not gone looking for it but come to think of it I've not seen it around! Do they still make it?

The liquid putty from Mr Color and Tamiya (at Hobby Lobby) is also very nice for narrow seams/cracks, pits, ejector marks, etc.

Oh! BTW. On the Bondo. Be very careful when you buy this stuff. They also sell a two part putty that you have to mix that comes it a very similar package. They are sold right next to each other and it would be easy for a clerk or previous customer to put it on the wrong rack post. Don't ask how I know that!

There are several brands of that auto putty, so you do not need to find specific Bondo brand. It is usually labeled "spot" or "glazing" putty.  It is one part stuff, no mixing.  If it is the two-part stuff there will be two containers of stuff.  All I have seen come in tubes.

Yeah, the version you mix comes with a second much smaller tube. The time I bought the wrong version the second smaller tube was nestled under the big tube. I didn't even notice it until I opened the package and it fell out. My first thought was cool, they included a sample tube! Good thing I investigated a bit further before punching a hole in the nozzle.

I'd look at three things. I bet Testors cement would do the job - not the thin Tamiya stuff but the thicker Testors. Tamiya also makes a product like that. It will thin a putty nicely.

If you're working with a relatively small area, get a small glass bottle, and fill it half way with thick plastic cement (Testors again would do.) Cut up some pieces of sprue and drop it into the bottle. It will dissolve very quickly and then you can brush it on like a thin putty. Can be a little messy, but it sure sands nicely.

Could also go on eBay and buy a Brit product called "Perfect Plastic Putty." I would not say it's the best putty for everything, but it's acrylic based, shrinks very little, is simple to apply, very easy to clean and does almost no damage to the plastic. I believe FSM editor Aaron Skinner is a fan.

Eric

Testor's putty responds really well to acetone. Alcohol works well if the putty has not dried. Once it dries, you can use acetone and it will be extremely workable. This is what I normally use.