Using micromask for chipping effects over acrylics

My experience with those liquid masking products is that I have a really hard time getting it off of ANY type of paint!

You are better off after aplying the decals to shoot clear flat and when dry spray some cheap hairspray from the Dollar Store and let it dry then spray or brush on some white acrylic paint. When dry in about 30 minutes or less start chipping and fading with a firm small brush and warm water. 

You will be amazed at the effect it will produce.

plasticjunkie

You are better off after aplying the decals to shoot clear flat and when dry spray some cheap hairspray from the Dollar Store and let it dry then spray or brush on some white acrylic paint. When dry in about 30 minutes or less start chipping and fading with a firm small brush and warm water. 

You will be amazed at the effect it will produce.

 

So apply a clear coat of flat acryl or two over the decals, then a coat or two of hairspray, and then chip.  I've tried that method once before with no results at all (I couldn't get the top coat to chip), but it was a long time ago and I think I know what I did wrong now.  From the videos I've seen it looks exactly like the effect I want though, so I think I'll give it a shot.  Would it be a good idea to use a bit of silly putty over the areas where the serial numbers and markings are (as these areas probably wouldn't have been painted over the tools in the first place)?

Also, is it better to let the hairspray dry a long time or do you get better results waiting a shorter amount of time (before painting over the HS)?

The hairspray dries to the touch in a few minutes and you should be ready to spray or brush the white acrylic within 15-20 minutes. I shoot clear Testor's Flat lacquer over the topcoat and yes you can use it and it will not attack the acrylic underneath when sprayed in very light coats. You can also use clear flat acrylic but let it cure overnight before using the hairspray.

Yes you can silly putty the numbers and divisional markings.

If the white paint is stubburn, then use the tip of a toothpick to perforate the acrylic white paint coat and get at it with the brush and water. Start chipping away as soon as the paint is dry to the touch in just a few minutes. A hair dryer speeds things up.

Works every time.

I used the hairspray method here to depict a post war tank derelict.

plasticjunkie

The hairspray dries to the touch in a few minutes and you should be ready to spray or brush the white acrylic within 15-20 minutes. I shoot clear Testor's Flat lacquer over the topcoat and yes you can use it and it will not attack the acrylic underneath when sprayed in very light coats. You can also use clear flat acrylic but let it cure overnight before using the hairspray.

Yes you can silly putty the numbers and divisional markings.

If the white paint is stubburn, then use the tip of a toothpick to perforate the acrylic white paint coat and get at it with the brush and water. Start chipping away as soon as the paint is dry to the touch in just a few minutes. A hair dryer speeds things up.

Works every time.

I used the hairspray method here to depict a post war tank derelict.

 

Perfect.  Thanks for your help.  Nice work on your derelict tank.  Is that the dragon Pz IV G?

Thanks. No it's the old Tamiya Mk IV Ausf.H.

Here's something that I'll just call the ILM technique for arguements' sake. This is something that the guys used to do back in the day to simulate weathering. Use a cotton swab with thinned paint to simulate wet oil spots, or carbon scoring, burns, etc. The lighter you go the lighter, or more controlled this effect can be as opposed to being too heavy. Use a toothpick to remove paint while it's wet to simulate scraching, and wear, and tear that you'd normally see. We used all kinds of tools to simulate battle damage, but you can use a moto-tool, or scrape paint with your hobby knife along edges, and use steel wool to remove paint along surfaces. Dry brush - not pastel chalk, or oil washes as these look unconvincing and were never done in the original ILM shop, or at Kerner!

You can get some amazing things done with a brush, and old T-shirt, tissue, toilet paper, etc. when you dab lightly with thinned flat black paint, or primer. You can also use brown, and red to simulate rust, and everyday dirt on your model. Don't use lacquer as it can destroy your paint. A lot of manufacturers refer to their product as lacquer when it's actually acrylic based. Look on their website, and see if they have the MSDS (material saftey data sheet) available. If it doesn't say NITROCELLULOSE in it, then it's acrylic, and safe to use with acrylic paints. Some people are gullable, and others just outright stupid and think that any old damned thing is lacquer when they wouldn't even know it if they were DROWNING in it!! True lacquer eats enamel, acrylic, and even decals, so be careful, and test on scrap before painting, gluing, or other things to your model! I hope that this helps you.

~ Cobra Chris

Though its been done a while now, I just thought I'd share some pics of the final result that all your responses made possible.  Thanks a ton for the help, guys!!