UV activated "Lazer Bond' glue

Interesting. What is the product called at Bed Bath & Beyond? Gotta check it out.

I wonder what kind of reaction it would cause using on clear parts? Sometimes those itty bitty HUD clear parts fall off easy.

Hi ;

 Hey , I bought one of those advertised on the Telly .Wow ! Sure does a good job on warped hulls . Hold it straight , Put a drop on the ends and hit it with the light .Viola ! A straight ship hull .

  I like this stuff .I think it will be great for P.E.    T.B.

Do you know how much product it holds and hows the price? Everytime I see those commercials I think of ordering but BB&B may be a better option because of their discount.

Thanks for the review.

Terry

Thanks for posting about this.

I don't like ordering from info-mercials so it is good to hear the product is available at Bed Bath and Beyond.

Will check for another one of their coupon flyers in my mail 

I'm sold! The missus has a whole mess of BB&B coupons anyways.

Later Bond out performs any super glue types of cement .I completed a whole detail 1/48 scale F-16 by Lazer bond.It wet sands great,and works good for strong 1:32 scale types of models.Its the wave of future modeling.You can complete a model in 1/2 of the time.Good for well fitted models like Tamyia, Hasegawa,and so on.

Later Bond out performs any super glue types of cement .I completed a whole detail 1/48 scale F-16 by Lazer bond.It wet sands great,and works good for strong 1:32 scale types of models.Its the wave of future modeling.You can complete a model in 1/2 of the time.Good for well fitted models like Tamyia, Hasegawa,and so on.

Keep in mind that this Lazer glue system is not new.Other products have been out there for about ten years.

I saw this stuff on TV and was dubios, as I am with all infomercials, but I bought it anyway because I thought it might work on canopies and clear parts.

It works great on canopies !  If there is a slight misfit gap between the canopy and fsg. it will fill it absolutely clear. You can easily wipe off any excess glue that happens to get in an unwanted place before hitting it with the light.  I have also used it to make the small side aircraft windows and it is instant, No waiting for the windows to dry overnight like the Testor's window maker glue. It sets stronger than Elmer's white glue or "the Detailer" glue that I have been using for clear parts too.

The firtst thing I tried to glue was a small piece of PE onto the inside of a clear canopy and it was very good for that purpose as well. Very nice to have a product that does what it says it will do.

My dentist uses something like this for fillings, or for repair of fillings.

The stuff I see on TV includes both the laser and the glue in each package, making it a bit expensive.  Can you buy just the glue, so you buy the laser once, but can keep buying more glue without buying a new laser?

BTW, I am wondering if it is really a laser vs a UV LED.

Just picked one up today to test out. Says on the package - "clear liquid plastic - hardens with UV light". Is a modified acrylamide and mixed acrylates. Warning label says - "Liquid causes serious eye damage. Eye, skin and respiratory irritant. Do not breathe vapor. Keep away from heat and flames. UV light can burn eyes and skin. Do not point at people or animals. Keep away from children, Prevent contact with eyes, skin and clothing".

Seems some care in use is appropriate, just like using other adhesives, paints, thinners etc. I myself will sometimes get a reaction to CA glue when using lots of it in building wood models. I get symptoms just like a cold, although an allergy pill relieves the symptoms quickly.

Gonna test it on plastic and wood tomorrow, report to follow.

EJ

ejhammer

Just picked one up today to test out. Says on the package - "clear liquid plastic - hardens with UV light". Is a modified acrylamide and mixed acrylates. Warning label says - "Liquid causes serious eye damage. Eye, skin and respiratory irritant. Do not breathe vapor. Keep away from heat and flames. UV light can burn eyes and skin. Do not point at people or animals. Keep away from children, Prevent contact with eyes, skin and clothing".

Seems some care in use is appropriate, just like using other adhesives, paints, thinners etc. I myself will sometimes get a reaction to CA glue when using lots of it in building wood models. I get symptoms just like a cold, although an allergy pill relieves the symptoms quickly.

Gonna test it on plastic and wood tomorrow, report to follow.

 

EJ

 

EJ,

Saw that UV kit on the TV and thought about the usage for building. Please let us know how it goes, would like to see before i consider purchasing it.

Thanks,

S. Deuxgood

Don Stauffer

The stuff I see on TV includes both the laser and the glue in each package, making it a bit expensive.  Can you buy just the glue, so you buy the laser once, but can keep buying more glue without buying a new laser?

BTW, I am wondering if it is really a laser vs a UV LED.

 

"giggling " UV cure glue comes up with other brands and I ought to still have a small UV lamp left over from my Gilbert brand childhood chemistry set 

I guess I could hold one of my four foot black lights up to the job, eh?   I have one that is never turned off, well, seldom that is.  I bought it in 1972 and it's still going strong.  It stands in a corner of our kitchen.

Get you one of these and recall your "wasted" youth!

Ran my tests.

The kit looks like this and has a metal dispensing tip somewhat larger than the tip on Model Master liquid cement bottle.

I snipped off two pieces of grey spru. Did not sand or dress the ends.

Applied a bit of the glue. It is about like thick CA in consistancy. Used the UV light for a few seconds.

Added some weight for a durability test. For a butt joint, it seems pretty strong.

Next some clear spru. The glue is clear as well. The glue solidifies to a kinda tough plastic. Seems to be slightly flexible. As in a previous post, it did not craze the plastic.

Next, two pieces of strip styrene. I found I needed to sand the surface slightly on this to get it to stick. Not sure if this is because of some surface contamination or if regular moulded styrene from a kit would be the same.

Deliberatly left a gap to test filling properties.

The gap filled and sanded. Came out very smooth, although the glue sands a bit tougher than the styrene strip.

Next - wood. Basswood strips.

Glued the joint. It is a small joint and in shear. The weight bent the wood but the joint held well.

Last, some PE. My Achilles heel is PE railing. I put an elongated puddle of glue on my glass work surface. Then with tweezers, dipped the edge of the pe railing (1/700) in the glue, held it on the previously tested styrene strips and used the light. In just a few seconds it was stuck. I ticked it with my finger tip to see how well it held. The rail bent, but did not come loose from the styrene.

I can see that adding this stuff to my arsenal of adhesives might prove an advantage. I don't know how much glue is in the dispenser and it doesn't say on the package. At $9.99 it seems a bit pricy, but then, CA isn't really cheap either, especially since it seems my CA seems to go bad before it's all used anyway.

Thank you for the insight and experiments, ejhammer. Very interesting indeed. I'm sold.