- Member since
- From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer
on Saturday, January 07, 2017 1:05 PM
I have seen no flaking, such as you might see with paint. If scratched, of course, it will show. I have bent parts after blackening and seen no marring. I do not clearcoat after application unless I want a flat finish, then I use MM Dullcoat on the blackened part just like the rest of the model. The blackened brass and the blueing on steel are exactly like you see the finish on a blued firearm. Can be handled, cleaned etc, but would show a scuff or scratch if damaged. That said, if a scratch shows up, a bit of blackening agent put on the part with a fine brush, quickly re blackens the part evenly.
I discovered the solder part by accident. The guedgeons were made with flat brass stock, the fret part of some PE, bent to a kind of U shape to fit the rudder with the reciever made of brass tubing and soldered to the narrow edge of the part. The Pintles were made the same way with a pin of brass rod soldered into the tube. The gudgeons slid down on the pintle and turn nicely so the rudder actually functions. After the parts were made and test fitted, I put them in a cap from a milk bottle and added just enough solution to cover the brass, allowed it to soak a few minits, removed them with tweezers and rinsed them with water to remove excess solution and allowed them to dry. To my amazement, the solder blackened to the same color as the brass. I was using the solder called "TIX", purchased from Micromark. The result you see in the previous post.
Completed - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.