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Blacken-It

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  • Member since
    July, 2014
Blacken-It
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 06, 2017 3:34 PM

It has come to my attention that the company that made this product has gone out of business. Is anyone aware of a similar product that is still available?

 

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, January 06, 2017 3:42 PM

  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 06, 2017 4:02 PM

Hey Steve, thanks for this option, and thanks for responding so quick!

 

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, January 06, 2017 4:22 PM

I'm in the right hemisphere mate ,  only 8:20 in the morning here LOL

  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 06, 2017 4:28 PM

That is too funny, Steve. You are a hoot.

Hey...have you tried this stuff? Does it work pretty well? I remember reading that people recommended sealing the Blacken-It because the black coating would flake off. Is this your experience with the Mig product?

 

 

  • Member since
    May, 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Friday, January 06, 2017 4:39 PM

Go to your local sporting goods store in the gun cleaning dept. Look for Birchwood Casey products in a 3 oz bottle. They have products to blacken brass, and aluminum, and a bluing agent for a "gun blue" for steel. They all work really well.

 

This shows pintle parts for a rudder made with scrap PE brass. I didn't like the parts painted.

EJ

Completed - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, January 06, 2017 9:42 PM

I've only just ordered it for myself mate , at the moment I have master blackening agent , which can flake off .

  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 06, 2017 10:56 PM

Ok understood, Steve. Thanks.

 

  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 06, 2017 10:58 PM

Thanks for the input EJ, I will look into this as well. Your example looks pretty good.

 

  • Member since
    May, 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Saturday, January 07, 2017 9:48 AM
When I did the brass parts for the pintles and guedgeons (sp), I was surprised it also blackened the solder as well.

Completed - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, January 07, 2017 11:28 AM

I did a google search on metal blackening solutions awhile ago- was amazed at what I found!

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, January 07, 2017 12:53 PM

EJ, that is interesting about the solder.

A question for you EJ: Have you seen any issues with flaking? Do you seal it after treatment?

 

  • Member since
    May, 2008
  • From: Wyoming Michigan
Posted by ejhammer on Saturday, January 07, 2017 1:05 PM

I have seen no flaking, such as you might see with paint. If scratched, of course, it will show. I have bent parts after blackening and seen no marring. I do not clearcoat after application unless I want a flat finish, then I use MM Dullcoat on the blackened part just like the rest of the model. The blackened brass and the blueing on steel are exactly like you see the finish on a blued firearm. Can be handled, cleaned etc, but would show a scuff or scratch if damaged. That said, if a scratch shows up, a bit of blackening agent put on the part with a fine brush, quickly re blackens the part evenly.

I discovered the solder part by accident. The guedgeons were made with flat brass stock, the fret part of some PE, bent to a kind of U shape to fit the rudder with the reciever made of brass tubing and soldered to the narrow edge of the part. The Pintles were made the same way with a pin of brass rod soldered into the tube. The gudgeons slid down on the pintle and turn nicely so the rudder actually functions. After the parts were made and test fitted, I put them in a cap from a milk bottle and added just enough solution to cover the brass, allowed it to soak a few minits, removed them with tweezers and rinsed them with water to remove excess solution and allowed them to dry. To my amazement, the solder blackened to the same color as the brass. I was using the solder called "TIX", purchased from Micromark.  The result you see in the previous post.

Completed - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.

  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, January 07, 2017 1:10 PM

EJ, that sounds excellent. I will see if I can find some, locally. Thanks for the follow-up.

 

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