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Selecting Glue Thickness

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  • Member since
    January 2017
Selecting Glue Thickness
Posted by rbmartiniv on Saturday, January 7, 2017 11:13 AM

I needed something to do after retiring, so I chose to take up building models, which I enjoyed very much as a youngster. I have a question about selecting the proper glue thickness. I have seen very thin, thin, medium, and thick. How do you know which one to use? Any help will be appreciated.

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 8:27 AM

Welcome to the "retirees club " Martin. I did exactly the same thing and now I have plenty to do while building models.

I use Tamiya thin for most of my styrene plastic on good tight fitting parts. However, as a modeler you should also have quite  a few different glues on your bench for specific uses, such as ; CA ,super glue,in thin and thick does well on filling small gaps and gluing non plastics like metal PE...Non-fogging alphatic type glue ( Elmer's is one ) for clear parts or ( I use laser type bondic for those purposes,the stuff seen on TV )

In one build I'll use all of these every time. Since their are many ways and glues to use,only time and experience will tell you of your favorite ways to stick stuff together so don't be shy about trying different recomended glues . The good people on here will answer any questions you are bound to have.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 9:25 AM

Jay Jay

I use Tamiya thin for most of my styrene plastic on good tight fitting parts.

That is indeed the key. In fact, the thicker CA glues are sometimes called gap-filling glues. If the two sides of a joint are in intimate contact, you can use the thin stuff.  However, most plastic kits do not have that kind of joint in many areas. If the glue has to bridge any gap at all, use the thicker stuff.

In addition, the thin stuff is very fast acting, and may not allow you time to accurately position the parts carefully.  Good examples are the seams for fuselages, or the hull-halfs of some ships. If you use the thin stuff, the glue that you first put down is already drying when you are finishing the other end of the joint.  So you may want to use the thick stuff, which is also slower setting.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Clearwater, FL
Posted by Gymbo-59 on Thursday, January 12, 2017 7:56 AM

I'm glad I read this.  I always use super glue gel on fuselage halves.  I was about to use some Tamiya thin to attach the top and bottom halves of Finemolds' X-Wing.  This community always has great advice.

Duct tape is like the force.  It has a dark side & light side and it holds the universe together.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: providence ,r.i.
Posted by templar1099 on Thursday, January 12, 2017 9:13 AM

Not much I can add to the topic, it really is a matter of trial and error at first but with input from here it narrows down the error margin. I will say that I find a white tacky glue indespensible and even utilize Testors tube glue. Be aware also that the applicators themselves will vary on the type of glue used and the parts you are gluing. Have some fun.

"le plaisir delicieux et toujours nouveau d'une occupation inutile"

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Thursday, January 12, 2017 10:27 AM

I'll try to help with what experience I have. With CA glue, the thickness is proportional to the set time of the glue. Example, thin CA glue will set/cure faster than thick CA glue. Many of the bottle I have purchase will tell you how long it takes to set. So, if you need some extra time to position a part use a thicker CA glue.

And as was said, thick CA glue can be used to seal gaps.

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

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