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Future Floor Polish - Did I purchase the correct formula?

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  • Member since
    April, 2017
Future Floor Polish - Did I purchase the correct formula?
Posted by Columbia20713 on Sunday, April 09, 2017 7:16 AM

According to Swanny's Models, Future Floor Polish can be purchased locally in the Philippines under the name "Pledge Wipe and Shine", and I grabbed a bottle of this stuff recently.

 

It, however, comes milky and perfumed, and I've heard from some sources that this formula no longer performs as well as the original, clear Future. I've been able to use it with some success as a varnish (though reacting to Mark Setter), though the paint seems to always come on wet and in splotches, only working well if sprayed very closely/handbrushed (I'm not sure if that is how varnishes should always be sprayed). When I attempted to spray it farther, it left a very dusty finish (but then again, so do all paints if sprayed far out enough.) There seem to be no mentions of  itbeing acrylic based, and the ingredients say it is made of waxes, emulsifiers, resin and aqueous vehicle. I didn't get too good of a result with it when dipping canopies - It usually highlights instead of fills in small imperfections.

Is it an actual alternative to Future, or is the formula different and no longer conducive to scale modeling - or am I just using it wrong? 

Thanks in advance!

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, April 29, 2017 6:00 AM

The old Future formula was liquid acrylic only as far as I know and can be mixed into craft and MM acrylic paints as I have done to get a smooth gloss finish. I don't know if it mixes with Tamiya or Vallejo paints.

I can't comment on the particular product you have but can tell you that I have issues spraying the old Future as it produces a pebbly finish so I rather hand brush it and then comes out smooth as glass.

As to reacting to decal solutions, make sure you let it cure at least 2 days to avoid reactions.

As for alternatives, I highly recommend Alclad Aquagloss. It is milky but dries crystal clear, sprays beautifully and decals can be applied a couple of hours later after application.

Sorry I couldn't be more help about your question but I would look into Aquagloss which is water based and sprays right out of the bottle and can also be used to dip clear parts.

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Northern New Jersey
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, April 29, 2017 7:59 AM
I 2nd that Alclad stuff,really good stuff

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by ecotec83 on Saturday, April 29, 2017 8:37 AM

Sounds like it might be a different pledge. The stuff I use says acrylic coating on the bottle. It is a bit cloudy in color and smells sweet. The ingredients are: water, propriatery film formers, tribotoxethyl phosphate, ethoxydiglycol, fragrance, ammonium hydroxide, oleic acid, 4,4 dimethloxazolidine, proprietary flurosurficant,, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, hydrogen peroxide, pentasodium pentetate,  scj formula 35*3597

I find when using it to clearcoat one light coat followed by a heavier wet coat works well( not enough to drip or run). Sometimes it will turn the model a bit white as it dries but dont panic it will dry clear.  It also brushes on very nice and runs are easy to fix before it dries.

 

I have had issues with tamiya decal setter eating the future finish as well. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, April 29, 2017 9:13 AM

ecotec83

Sounds like it might be a different pledge. The stuff I use says acrylic coating on the bottle. It is a bit cloudy in color and smells sweet. The ingredients are: water, propriatery film formers, tribotoxethyl phosphate, ethoxydiglycol, fragrance, ammonium hydroxide, oleic acid, 4,4 dimethloxazolidine, proprietary flurosurficant,, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, hydrogen peroxide, pentasodium pentetate,  scj formula 35*3597

I find when using it to clearcoat one light coat followed by a heavier wet coat works well( not enough to drip or run). Sometimes it will turn the model a bit white as it dries but dont panic it will dry clear.  It also brushes on very nice and runs are easy to fix before it dries.

 

I have had issues with tamiya decal setter eating the future finish as well. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I do believe this is the correct replacement one.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, April 29, 2017 10:18 AM

I have used several brands of acrylic gloss, and they all go on kind of milky, but dry clear.  These are spray can stuff.  It is also available in regular cans- non-spray.  Those are milky even in the can.  When I say milky, I mean it looks like maybe a half ounce of milk in an eight ounce glass of water- translucent but not opaque white.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, July 06, 2017 11:07 AM

CAUTION, CAUTION!!!! I do not use that stuff since it ruined a $300 model (1/12 scale Ford GT 40 Mk II). The stuff micro cracked after it dried. Maybe I didn't let the red paint cure long enough. The red paint was Tamyia.

The cracked clear coat really made me mad  since I spent so much time super detailing the car.

 

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Thursday, July 06, 2017 5:45 PM

A lot of issues can cause your problem. The wrong Future product, humidity, sprayed on too thick, old product, etc...

Future is great for aircraft canopies though. I know others have used this stuff with zero issues.

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, July 06, 2017 5:49 PM

You definitely want "Finish", not "Cleaner". As for a product purchased in the Phillipines, take your chances.

Johnny, you should be able to strip that clear pretty easily with diluted ammonia, or "Windex".

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, July 06, 2017 6:59 PM

Johnny

My guess is trapped gasses from the curing paint. How many days did you let the paint cure before applying the Future?

My Future bottle is a good 10 years old and 1/2 way down and had no issues using it.

As GM said, Windex with ammonia will strip it off.

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, July 06, 2017 9:14 PM

I think that I let the paint cure for two days. That was too short. The car is fully assembled. I do not think that I could remove thr Future finish.

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