Putty with a slightly longer working time?

Might try thinning it a little bit won't set up as quick

Perfect plastic putty has a work time of a few minutes and is water clean up.

Aves Apoxie Putty is really useful stuff for filling and also for creating little parts like seatbelts or even Zimmerit. It would give you a lot of time. I'd second the suggestion of thinning the putty. My problem with the Squadron, Testors and even Tamiya is that when they dry they're a little porous. Perfect Plastic Putty is good, but it dries way before a normal modeler would finish the tube - a terrible design. For small jobs I prefer Golden Hard Molding Paste (that would take several minutes to even begin drying) - if you've got a serious ugly, it's hard to beat 3M Bondo "Glazing and Spot Putty". (Get that type - you don't want body filler.)

Testor putty is garbage Use Milliput or Perfect Putty instead. Whatever you do, DO NOT get Squadron Green putty. 

EBergerud

Perfect Plastic Putty is good, but it dries way before a normal modeler would finish the tube - a terrible design.

 

 

That's my only beef with PPP but when it gets hard, add a few drops of water in the tube and knead the plastic tube to mix. I usually add a few more drops and is good as new. 

I've not had the drying issue with perfect plastic putty. I always store the tube standing with the cap down so the putty seals the opening. Guess that's why the cap is so large.

ejhammer

I've not had the drying issue with perfect plastic putty. I always store the tube standing with the cap down so the putty seals the opening. Guess that's why the cap is so large.

 

Ive done the same thing since I first got it but after a few months it will begin to dry out.

PJ is spot on correct, water works wonders for keeping PPP useable as new for a very long time. I'm on my first tube, I've had it so long I can't remember when I bought it, but it's been three years or more I'm quite sure.

When I open it I add a couple of drops of water to it, stir it a bit with a tiny metal spatula and apply. Before resealing the tube I add another few drops, knead the mix inside and screw on the cap. 

It's also crtical that the tube top and threads be kept perfectly clean, same with the cap insides. Any bits of putty around the top areas will not permit a good seal, that will compound the drying issue.

Patrick

I use the 3M Bondo spot putty myself along with the Testor's Putty. I have had horrible luck with Tamiya drying out way too fast and Squadron not adhering to the model.

Auto putty? yes! I use 3M Acryl-blue glazing putty. Used by auto body shops to fill fine scratches.

A quick-tip that I use to keep my PPP (perfect plastic putty) fresh is that I use their syringe and needle tips. I keep the tip submerged in a cup of water. I've had mine stored this way for several months and not had a problem. Make sure that you check the water level on a regular basis as it will evaporate over time.

I use Squadron white for filling seams and smaller gaps.  I extend its working time by using acetone to thin it or remove excess.  I use two-part epoxy putties (eg, Aves A&B) for sculpting.  The small amounts necessary to fill seams don't make it worth it for me to mix a batch of a two-part putty.

Depending on the nature of the seam or gap, on a styrene kit, I prefer to use stretched sprue or bits of styrene sheet to fill.