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Anyone compared the "hotness" of plastic glues?

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  • Member since
    February, 2011
Anyone compared the "hotness" of plastic glues?
Posted by 40kminis on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 12:30 AM

I understand some of the liquid glues for plastic are hotter than others and melt plastic at a faster rate. Trying to find a comparison of Plastiweld, Tenax, etc. 

I am trying to find a brand that is not so hot as I am discovering my seams are forming a valley when I apply the liquid weld glue. I think I am using Plast-I-weld, the same guys who make the Touch-n-flow applicator which I also use to apply the glue sparingly. 

 

 

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 1:01 AM

I have noted the “hotness” of the different types of liquid cements that I have used, but not in any sort of scientific way.

Usually the hotter the glue, the quicker it tends to evaporate when placed on plastic. Tenax and Plast-i-weld are the hottest types that I have used. I use them for the quickest and hardest joins. Tamiya Extra Thin and Humbrol Liquid Poly are not quite so hot, and are my standards for everyday use. Testors liquid cement had some quality control issues (too cool, about as effective as sugar water or Elmers glue) several years back, so I stopped using the stuff. 

 

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  • Member since
    August, 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 2:09 AM
I wish you could still get tenax it was perfect. Now I'm using plastiweld it does the job but it's not as hot as tenax. I know some people use straight mek have also heard of lacquer thinner being used. To answer your question stick explained it well.

Clint

  • Member since
    May, 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 2:59 AM

Hello!

Recently I have been experimenting with some chemicals that are many times cheaper than the specialized plastic glues. What worked for me best was an old lacquer thinner and unfortunately I don't have ingradients list for it. Other lacquer thinners that I see in hardware stores list xylene and toluene as ingredients. I have also tried acetone and butanone/MEK - and those evaporate too fast. It looks like you need to mix acetone or MEK with something that doesn't evaporate so fast - I guess it might be toluene. Once you get the mix right you can save some serious $$$ on plastic weld glues!

Have a nice day

PaweĊ‚

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    October, 2010
Posted by hypertex on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 5:57 AM

You can compare the dissolving power of various chemicals by applying a small amount to packaging styrofoam. Just touch a small amount to the foam and watch a hole form. The more dissolving power the bigger the whole. I use a cheap paint brush to apply, making sure I apply the same amount each time.

Packaging foam is expanded polystyrene, the same plastic found in most plastic kits. The glue eats through the foam much more easily because it is mostly air.

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 8:58 AM
I have found Tamiya Extra Thin,with the green cap to be perfect for me. As far as testing,well you have sprue,and a lot of kits have extra parts from versions not used.

  • Member since
    March, 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 2:32 PM

I use Tamiya Extra thin most of the time, since Tenax departed I sometimes use "Same Stuff," I got it at my local hobby shop, maybe I've seen it at Micro Mark catalogue also. Still have a nearly full Tenax bottle, in comparison Same Stuff seems to work identically.

Tenax evaporated in bottle really quickly, the fix for that is a thin metal cap filed to fit the top of the bottle, then screw the cap on firmly. Tenax can last for years then.

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