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Sanding the Timber to the required thickness, for Scale Model Horse drawn Vehicles.

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  • Member since
    March 2014
Sanding the Timber to the required thickness, for Scale Model Horse drawn Vehicles.
Posted by Graham Green on Saturday, July 20, 2019 6:08 AM

I needed something to be able to make the timber I required for the models, to be of a very uniform thickness, so I checked on the web and found a drawing for a Thickness Sander.

This was tad on the larger size for the timber I required, so drew it up to a size that what I reckoned, would be about the correct sized machine for what I needed.

Found a bit of scrap Aluminium sheet at work and the boss said  - ‘go’.

Mainly of  Aluminium construction and have a sheet of 1mm glass on the rise and fall table to enable easy pushing of the timber thru the sander. It has two drums for the sanding, they are loaded with different grades of Emery Paper, one coarse and the other fine. Easy to change the drums, whenever they are needed to be changed.

This works so well, I can keep shoving a bit of timer into the machine until it is about 0.010 thous thick, the next time thru the sander it turns to $hit. The timber is so thin you can hold it up to the light and nearly see thru it, but it shows all the tiny minute grain holes that the timber has.

The table is raised by the hand wheel underneath the front of the table, the thread is M14 x 2, so with the drum at the centre of the table, as you raise it one turn, the table raises 1mm, it’s very accurate and the thickness can be controlled very easily, — easy as, eh.

The timber I use for my models is of the Beech family, it’s Tasmanian Myrtle, the grain is just about non existent, it’s a very, very fined grain timber that could be used from 1/87 th scale right thru to full sized furniture, bloody marvellous stuff actually. It takes a coat of paint just like a sheet of polystyrene, big bonus actually, you can give it an undercoat WITHOUT any grain standing up ruining the fine finish. If some does try to rear it’s ugly head, then a used toothbrush rubbed over any imperfections, soon removes it. The only time I have to do any sanding, is if I have stuffed up and got some runs on the model.

Now other modellers use the actual timber that the full sized item is made from, but to me, some of these timbers have a very opened large pored grain. So when you now use it in a model, it actually looks like crap, with bloody great big holes in it, from all the open pores in the grain.

Choice is your’s alone to use whatever Timber you want too, but take a close look at the timber you want to use and think of what it would look like when it's used on a model, would it have any big unsightly holes showing in the finish of the timber.

Any questions then please ask.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Saturday, July 20, 2019 9:06 PM

So as you can see, it takes a lot more effort, than just buying another sheet of whatever thickness that is required of polystyrene, or some more bit's of Evergreen, plus some more glue, to make one of these "scratchbuilt" models.


Not only do I have to make the timber the correct thickness, I have had to make the machinery that can do all this for me as well.


 

Anybody got any questions  ?  ------

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, July 20, 2019 11:08 PM

Over here in the states we use Linden, AKA basswood. Reckon it's the same as Myrtle, a flowering hardwood.

I have a fine ajustment table saw that does what your machine does, minus the final sanding. Quick work by hand.

Your models are large scale, which is easier for detail. At smaller scales like 1/96 ships, it takes a different approach. Be happy to share.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    September 2017
  • From: western North Carolina
Posted by kensar on Monday, July 22, 2019 8:09 AM

So you are pushing the wood through the sander by hand?  I assume the drum is rotating against the direction you are pushing?  Have you had any problems with the wood being kicked back?  Wearing gloves while pushing the wood?  How big a 'bite' do you take with each pass?

 

 

Kensar

 

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Monday, July 22, 2019 11:04 PM

kensar

So you are pushing the wood through the sander by hand?  I assume the drum is rotating against the direction you are pushing?  Have you had any problems with the wood being kicked back?  Wearing gloves while pushing the wood?  How big a 'bite' do you take with each pass?

 

 

 

 

Yes, pushing the wood thru by hand and the drum is doing as you stated. Kick back can occur the moment you release pressure on the workpiece whilsts pushing it thru, so you just have to be carefull of it. Depends on the width of the wood being pushed thru as to how big a bite can be taken, a skinny bit easy 0.020" or half mill, wider bit 5 to maybe 10 thou, full width bit 3 inch wide, maybe 5 thou at a time. It's been goverened by the size of the motor, that bench grinder is only a small half horse power motor, you start pushing too hard and the motor stalls before any damage can occur.  If I fitted a 1 horsepower motor, then you could go for it, but would have to watch out for burning the surface of the timber, as it would be too aggresive.

 

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