Best paint brushes and bristle type for enamel painting?

I swear by the windsor & newton series 7 sable brushes.  Watching this thread though.

Thanks John, I probably will stay with my sable. Worked great for years so I quess why change now.

Aside from very fine detail work, I’m a big fan of sable brushes. Especially for any use with enamels.

Does enamel paint and thinner effect the sable brushes?

modelmaker66

Does enamel paint and thinner effect the sable brushes?

 

Yes, long term it can. But proper cleaning and care will minimize the effects and extend brush life.

modelmaker66

Does enamel paint and thinner effect the sable brushes?

Sable brushes are designed for use with oils and watercolors. Apparently they're not recommended for acrylics (particularly alcohol-based types) because the solvents strip the natural oils from the fibres. 

You can, after use and thorough cleaning, rinse well with water and then gently massage hair conditioner (yes, the one you use in the shower) into the bristles, let it soak for a few minutes and then rinse well. That should help extend the life of the brush.

The opening post mentions Taklon bristles. Taklon isn't a single type, there are a number of grades, from the familiar standard "Golden Taklon" used in some very ordinary cheap brushes, up to high-grade synthetic (eg. Roymac's "Revolution Taklon) fibres which mimic the characteristics of natural fibres. The higher-end Taklon brushes are good, the average golden taklon ones, not so much.

There are some synthetic bristles that are not recommended for enamels and lacquers, but don't know what the material is.  I use mainly enamels and stick to natural (animal hair) brushes.

Jhande, love your logo!  Do you build model modifieds?  I have about a dozen on my shelves- love watching real ones too.

stikpusher

Aside from very fine detail work, I’m a big fan of sable brushes. Especially for any use with enamels.

Curious, what do you prefer for very fine detail work?

modelmaker66

Does enamel paint and thinner effect the sable brushes?

I took good care of my brushes and they lasted for many years and lots and lots of builds.

Phil_H

The opening post mentions Taklon bristles. Taklon isn't a single type, there are a number of grades, from the familiar standard "Golden Taklon" used in some very ordinary cheap brushes, up to high-grade synthetic (eg. Roymac's "Revolution Taklon) fibres which mimic the characteristics of natural fibres. The higher-end Taklon brushes are good, the average golden taklon ones, not so much.

 

Thanks Phil, I didn't realize there was different levels of Taklon. I've only come across the "Golden Taklon" so far.

Don Stauffer

There are some synthetic bristles that are not recommended for enamels and lacquers, but don't know what the material is.  I use mainly enamels and stick to natural (animal hair) brushes.

Jhande, love your logo!  Do you build model modifieds?  I have about a dozen on my shelves- love watching real ones too.

Thanks Don!

I don't build modifies yet, mostly American Muscle Cars of the late 60's to early 70's. I used to be into the racing curcuit but at 60 with disabilities it's a thing of the past.

I use sable brushes with my enamels, too, as well as with acrylics and with oils.

I reserve my Kolinsky sables for painting figures and that's mostly acrylics and oils.  Those are 1 and 2 rounds.  Those have a thick head but hold a fine point.  That lets you load the brush with paint but apply it to very fine places.

I use other sable brushes, red sable from Red China, for all-around work.

As was mentioned above, the solvents used do wear the fibers, but as was also mentioned above, if you care for them properly, they will last a long time.  The big thing is to restore the protective coating to the hairs.  There are products made specifically for use with brushes.  But the same products that have the same purpose for our hair and skin will do.  You can use products with lanolin, for example.  I know a French figure painter who uses olive oil-after cleaning off the paint and rinsing, he dips them in olive oil.  I'll use skin oil on mine.

Thanks for the reply Baron!

When I was young (around 8) and started building models my dad did house painting on the side. He used mineral oil, he learned that trick from his dad who was a house painter by trade. He used to rub a little into the bristle and his brushes stayed in good shape. So he told me to give it a try and sure enough my brushes lasted for years.

jhande,Hi;

   I have been modeling since the dinosaurs were here it seems. Anyway, I use specifically high quality Sable brushes. Always have, always will. Why? Well, I have found All the others pure crap.The synthetic ones do nothing for me but make me cuss.

      I don't think they will ever get a synthetic to flex and curve like a natural hair brush. I use Camel Hair for large areas and the Sable for detailing. Camel hair is okay for the rough stuff.But,See years ago You didn't have spray cans or airbrushes for poor kids in the projects. So , model cars got hand painted.

   My mom dabbled in Oil Painting and she saw me struggling with smooth surfaces. She took me to the hobby shop. Got me two sizes of sable brush and Pactra(Guarnteed no Brush Mark) paint.

     Problem solved. Oh , by the way. I still have those four brushes. Two verywide, semi fans and two round triple ought. Proper care will enable a good brush to last many, many years. Of course I've bought more since then. Always in the oil art section of Hobby Lobby store. 

Thanks for the info Tanker!

When I was young and first started I too had to brush paint the bodies. I know I had a fairly large nice brush but can't remember exactly what it was now. Eventually I started saving my allowance to buy the Testor spray cans. I have always used Testors enamels and eventually their Model Master line. Forget the green tube of glue, the red works much better.

I'm going to pick up some quality brushes both sable and camel hair. I think that's what I normally used years ago.

The only problem with some hobby lobby brushes is that they do not work with enamels, or more specifically, turpentine/mineral spirits brush cleaners that work with enamel paints. Their packaging has it marked in fine print. I bought some anyways. The big problem is that whatever glue that they use to attach the collar to the handle dissolves and that portion detached after going into the thinner jar during cleaning. Thank goodness for CA glue to fix that.