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Improved dryer box.

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Improved dryer box.
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, October 30, 2019 9:28 AM

My old homemade dryer box was too small for the 1:32 model I was working on.  So I modified it.  For both the actual drying chambers are those plastic tote/storage cases most of us use to transport models to meetings and contests.  They are mounted upside down. I screw the cover on upside down to the bottom box. I drill lots of holes in the box so heat can flow into the box.  I also drill small holes in the bottom of the box (now the top) so air can flow into and out of the box by convection.  I just went out and bought the next size larger tote.  Fits okay.

 

Old box

 

New box

Sorry the pic is so dark.  Something is wrong with my camera and I cannot quite figure out what.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, October 30, 2019 9:48 AM

That's a clever retrofit, Don. Yes

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, October 30, 2019 12:30 PM

A...cool, idea, if I may allow myself the pun Wink

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Wednesday, October 30, 2019 4:18 PM

Don, I really like the change. And one of these days, I'll get off my duff and make one for myself. 

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Wednesday, October 30, 2019 11:09 PM

What do you use as a drying element?

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Thursday, October 31, 2019 8:31 AM

Hi Don;

    I have been using an old Aquarium with the vented top and a " Critter Light . ( A light for Lizards)" Seems to work well. At least after ten years, I guess so.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, October 31, 2019 9:01 AM

I use a 6o watt incandescent bulb.  If you ever intend to build something using a bulb for a cheap heating element, you'd better buy a bulb or too now- it needs to be a real 60 watt bulb, not a fluorescent or LED that gives the equivalent light.

I have the light in series with a light dimmer/switch so I can adjust the temp (that is a thermometer sitting in the otherwise empty chamber. I find the amount of power I need to reach the temp I want- 110 to 115 degrees- depends on season and temp of my shop. I have allowed parts to get too hot.  Wings started to sag when I let a plane set in there for awhile when it got a few degrees above 120.  Because I run the bulb at a lower temperature than in a light fixture, I expect a long bulb life, but I do still need to buy a spare or two.

 

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, November 4, 2019 11:41 AM

Hi Don;

  Gotchya on the bulb thing. I bought a dozen. No, that said, Right now I am using an Open " Critter Light ( Warming ) for this job. It sits In an old architects light unit. So I can adjust the distance some. Works well with the framed Panty-Hose Mesh. Keeps the dust out and the air clear inside.

  • Member since
    October 2015
Posted by Comanche pilot on Tuesday, December 24, 2019 6:55 PM

I’ve used a food dryer. It gets too hot if not vented a bit; up to 115F. Never on the bottom tray or with a tight lid, either. Mine is round and about 15” in diamteter. 

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