Camouflage putty is it worth it?

Never used the AK product...so can't offer a comparison...but I've used regular Silly Putty for decades without a hitch. My guess is they're similar, if not virtually identical. (Except one is probably much cheaper and easier to find.)

wpwar11

AK makes camouflage elastic putty.  Im sure there are similar products available for the same application.  Anything special about these products?  Why not use silly putty of poster tac?  

...

Will these special products make it easier or yield better results?

It has a model manufacturer's name on it.  It must be better!

With my tongue stuck firmly in my cheek

Surprisingly, Silly Putty is not cheap. Try it.

The demarcation on your model is pretty sharp, if it's 1/48 or smaller scale.

Bacvk when I modeled that subject, I remember reading somewhere that the zone of soft transition on the 1:1 subject was maybe an inch.

Bill

I've been using silly putty. You can get a package of five containers for $8.92 at walmart. You can also use it over and over again. There is no need to buy a model specific brand of silly putty.

AK sure makes some interesting products. I can't opine either, but if you do try it, please do let us know your opinion.

I've used a generic poster tac product, just keeps going and going like the Energizer Bunny. I've been wanting to buy some Silly Putty to try for years, never seem to remember when I'm at an appropriate store! After Bill's comment, I'll be ready for sticker shock.

Greg

After Bill's comment, I'll be ready for sticker shock. Surprise

With all very genuine respect to Bill, you can find Silly Putty in the range of $1.20 an 'egg' without much effort. And as Tickmagnet said, you can use the stuff over and over again -- just knead it till it's 'clean' again. I get two eggs at a time (enough for most 1/48 projects), and it seems to last 3-4 years before it starts getting too grungy to use.

Cheers

gregbale

 

 

Greg

After Bill's comment, I'll be ready for sticker shock. Surprise

 

 

With all very genuine respect to Bill, you can find Silly Putty in the range of $1.20 an 'egg' without much effort. And as Tickmagnet said, you can use the stuff over and over again -- just knead it till it's 'clean' again. I get two eggs at a time (enough for most 1/48 projects), and it seems to last 3-4 years before it starts getting too grungy to use.

Cheers

 

This thread has me on a Silly Putty quest! If and when I remember, I'll report back whether I had to go to the bank for a Silly Putty loan or not.

On the knead and reuse, funny timing. I was kneading one of my now 7 yr old globs of poster tac last night, musing about never expecting it to last that long. One had Alclad chrome all over it and I was sure it was shot. But it kneaded out promptly.

Should be fun to compare to the Silly Putty.

Just occured to me that I now need two sympathy cards and a few Silly Putty eggs. This is one of those purchase combinations where I always have an eye on the cashier for a response. Never get one though, guess they've seen it all.

Greg

Just occured to me that I now need two sympathy cards and a few Silly Putty eggs.

I'm deeply ashamed of myself for saying this, of course ...

...But it's so-o-o much more personal than simply sending flowers.

(I'll go away, now....)

 I've used both. Silly putty tends to spread out (looks like it's melting) when left in place for an extended time when used in a warm environment. Poster tack seems to hold it's shape regardless of the heat.

Well, that doesn't mean you can put it in an oven though.

 (Blue can) Turpenoid and Mineral spirits don't affect silly putty but they'll turn poster tack into an endless blobby mess you won't be able to deal with.

 Personally I wouldn't use any aftermarket camouflage masking putty. It's a waste unless you just want to throw away money you could use for other modeling needs.

I've used poster tack a lot for masking.  It does leave more residue, but I clean it off with alcohol (I use enamel or lacquer paints).

gregbale

Never used the AK product...so can't offer a comparison...but I've used regular Silly Putty for decades without a hitch. My guess is they're similar, if not virtually identical. (Except one is probably much cheaper and easier to find.)

 

Likewise. I picked up an egg several years back at the local 99cents store. I don’t use it that much so nowhere near needing replacement. And when it does I’ll probably go back to 99cents place and grab several more at that price.

I've still got my Flubber....somewhere.

GMorrison

I've still got my Flubber....somewhere.

 

Probably with your bucket of prop wash.

Well I think thats a landslide victory for silly putty/poster tac.  Thanks for a couple laughs and all the responses.  

I’ll try and remember to post the results after painting.  

Thanks again 

stikpusher

 

 

GMorrison

I've still got my Flubber....somewhere.

 

 

 

 

Probably with your bucket of prop wash.

 

I read the title and thought camo putty, is that like DPM paint. Then i realised.

I use white tac, i use it over and over again. I can't imagine the branded (and no doubt more expensive) branded putty will do it any better. Unless it applies the camo for you with the perfect amount of fadeing.

Tickmagnet

I've been using silly putty. You can get a package of five containers for $8.92 at walmart. You can also use it over and over again. There is no need to buy a model specific brand of silly putty.

 

. And probably more expensive and you get less.

It's like getting a hairspray can from the dollar store or the expensive model chipping  fluid, both work the same in doing the hairspray weathering technique.

I did my first two camo jobs on an F-111E and FB-111A that I currently have on the back burner.  I ended up using a combination of frisket film to protect from overspray, and Blue Tack which I roll into a snake and run along the edges of the frisket film to get the soft, feathered edge.  Tried Silly Putty once and found it to be kind of a frustrating experience...didn't seem to readily want to stay put.

Here are the results on the wings for the two Varks, along with a pic of the frisket/Blue Tack combo.  The frisket just makes it a snap to get more precise replication of camo patterns from drawings and photos.  I just get the image the right size for the piece, reverse it, and then print on the frisket backing paper.

my Tuppence happenny from the UK:

Silly putty is hard to find here, never used it, so I use blue tac or white tac, & bin it when it goes 'icky, not often with acrylic spraying.

You can use the branded black putty in a tin, but it's no better or worse than blue/whitetac.

Methodology: as Eaglecash867 post.

Please bear in mind that there is a lot of evidence that rubber mat masks were used in the factory to do the camo, so demarcations were quite tight (always exceptions though), and consistent plane to plane.

On fighters there was a A or B scheme, a left to right mirror, dependent on the odd or even serial number (don't know which way round, i follow the kit guide).

Jon_a_its

Please bear in mind that there is a lot of evidence that rubber mat masks were used in the factory to do the camo, so demarcations were quite tight (always exceptions though), and consistent plane to plane.

On fighters there was a A or B scheme, a left to right mirror, dependent on the odd or even serial number (don't know which way round, i follow the kit guide).

 

I also read something somewhere about the use of rubber mats as masks on British WWII aircraft .

I generally use the kit guide, except for their color choices...sometimes they get those wrong.  Since I'm modeling post WWII aircraft, I have a 1998 USAF Tech Order 1-1-4 to help get the colors right.  Also have to use what's left of Model Master enamels, since other manufacturers I've tried up to this point are way off on the colors that they claim are FS equivalents.  Strangely, I looked at the TO last night for colors on the F-16, and the F-16 isn't even in there!  Weird!  

The feathering between colors is pretty close to scale (1:48), you have to use magnifiers to see it.