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Cleaning Your Ship Models, Well, any model, Really!

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  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Cleaning Your Ship Models, Well, any model, Really!
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Thursday, September 10, 2020 8:39 AM

Uh Oh!

      "Yeah, She;s Dusty""I'll have to clean her"Is this as far as you have gotten with the idea of cleaning those very delicate Ship Models, Either the Sailing Version or the more Modern Ones?

       No need to let this chore frighten you. Why? Well, there is a way to do it that works for me. First, You will need the cleaning supplies. These are simple to get. they are as follows.

1-Canned Air

2-A very fine Make-Up Brush-Medium spread - Very soft !

3 The same in a large BLUSH brush-Very soft!

4- A soft Rag, preferably an old clean Piece of "T" shirt

5 Most Importantly,Good Light!

 and lastly a heavy dose of the following, these are really almost as important as the first five. A  Very Large Dose of Patience and a Very Large Dose of Gentility.

    We are not cleaning Bull-Dozers here! When you first remove the model from it's resting place be gentle and make sure where you are going to work is Stable, Well Lit and Clean. You can clean it again when you're done.

     Now gently, from a safe but near enough position, Blow the heavy dust off with the Canned Air. Small bursts from a minimum of six to seven inches is fine. You know , if you own an Airbrush and Compressor you can do this part with this equipment. Some don't have portability so you'll have to bring the model to it. Again make sure the area is Clean. If it's your work area, protect it with a drop cloth of some kind.

    Now gently blow from say, the bow to the stern down one side then turn the ship around and do the same on the opposite side. Say, Port first, then Starboard! After the blow ( General) refine the air pattern and get closer to details like Deck Fittings, Ratlines, Spars etc.  Be especially careful around P.E. Parts such a Rails, Gun Parts and Radars.

     For Sail Ships Start at the Tops, Aft or Mizzen, Main and Foremast. Then work your way across each Spar and Sail, gently from side to side. Ratlines last. Now work to the deck. When you arrive there, STOP!  Take a break !!

     When you return start at the midline of the deck( this applies to all ship types!) Blow from the aft Rails forward. When you reach the bow, On sail ships gently blow and clear the Bowsprit and any Sails and Gear free of lingering dust and debris.

    Now here's the dangerous part. The Brushing!. This requires on any Model, a STEADY Patient hand. Most brushes needed are just to short for the larger ships. Well, make the tool fit the job! You can get very soft fine brushes at any Art Department or make your own. Take a Blush Brush for instance. Cut the handle off if it's to big, Right at the end of the ferrule. ( the metal part on the brush) Then drill a hole big enough for a Bamboo Skewer! Insert the skewer after dropping some C.A in the hole!

    This gives you a longer handle which will fit in between most rigging. Using the smallest soft Brush clean the rigging itself! OOOOOH ! This will require extreme delicacy. Take a break, NOW ! This applies to all models for sure! Now, return to our stopping point and resume the job. When cleaning around tight spots use the air in conjunction with the brush.

   Almost done ,mate! Now here's the final part. As you clean Wipe the brushes you use on the clean rag to remove dust caught in the bristles. Don't use ANY LIQUID in this cleaning process. If you wish to use a soapy bath( I don't recommend it on heavilly rigged ships) Again, Soft brushes ,TEPID water and a GENTLE stream of it and most important a fine strainer in the drain preferably the same material used in Permanent Coffee Filters( that fine mesh will catch anything.)

      Now find a place for the bathed model to Air Dry after blowing water out of crevices and corners! For the dry cleaned model. gently replace it where it was AFTER cleaning that spot of Dust as well. DONE. Good Luck!

     Oh! a belated tip on the brush modification. When you cut the handle off, Cut  it off at least a 1/8" off behind the ferrule. This way you can TAPER the handle into the Skewer. This way when sanded smooth It Will Not( Or Should Not) catch on anything as you back out. Again -Good Luck. If you have any questions, Ask me by messaging. I check most of the time every day. In the Morning!

     For Armor builders or Dio Builders, There is a miniVac you can get to get in the crevices or just use a large squeeze bottle with a standard nozzle. Squeeze the bottle firmly.The point it at the area and let it draw in the dust as it draws in air to return to normal shape. Empty it frequently by removing the top and tapping the contents out.

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, September 10, 2020 11:56 AM

I keep mine behind glass,no dusting required

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Thursday, September 10, 2020 3:23 PM

Too complicated!  Here's what I do:  Turn on the shower, set for a gentle flow, medium warm temperature, and hold the model under it.  Then let the model air dry.  Works for me!

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Friday, September 11, 2020 9:28 AM

Chuck:

      You sure are a whole lot braver than me I guess. You cannot do that with Card Models my friend! But on Model cars maybe. Like a good clean rain, Eh? You do know that Super Glues lose their affinity to water over time. One drop from a showerhead will cause the loss of that Door Handle, BustleRack, or a Small Fine Spar or other Rigging. Be careful with the "Drain of Doom" There!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Friday, September 11, 2020 1:10 PM

I did not know that!  Thanks for the warning.  Mostly, I do airplanes and have had no problems...

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Friday, September 11, 2020 3:26 PM

Cadet Chuck?

    Hi; Hey you should also watch the Canopies if you used either White Glue or Canopy cement. I have had Canopies get loosened that way. Watch-Crystal Cement won't do that though. Micro-Mark sells it too!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Friday, September 11, 2020 6:32 PM

Oh, yeah, an old pro introduced me to watch crystal cement many years ago, and I always have a tube on hand.  (This guy was a model maker working for George Lucas on the first couple of Star Wars films!)

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Saturday, September 12, 2020 10:11 AM

Hi,Chuck:

   Yeah, that's how I learned too. Only I had small shopkeepers teach me these things many,many years ago. Except for Nail Shops and Barber shops I wonder if there is such thing as a small Shopkeeper?

     You know the type, ran a small shop out front and lived in the back?

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, September 12, 2020 12:59 PM

I do about the same as TB, but use my airbrush (take off bottle and run it for about 30 seconds to make sure everything except air gone) instead of canned air.  I find using the soft brush at same time as air flow works great.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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