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Happy Halloween. I was just curious, anybody here use albion alloys to create your own WWI turnbuckles? I've already learned how to make the eyelets with tiny copper wires and now I just need to find some tiny hollow tubing. I've seen that they sell tubes in 0.2mm, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 etc... what would you say would be the perfect size for both realism in 1/48 scale and enough space to fit the eyelets in?
I purchased some at the IPMS Nationals last year to use for the hooks and turnbuckles used to secure ship anchor chains. I had difficulty cutting it without having to redrill the ends everytime. I went back to a method that I might have discovered on this forum-taking Evergreen styene tubing (usually 1/8" or the smallest tube that they have), heating it over a candle and stretching it like sprue. Takes a little while to get consistent thicknesses, but much cheaper than the metal tubing and easier to work with.
dhenning I went back to a method that I might have discovered on this forum-taking Evergreen styene tubing (usually 1/8" or the smallest tube that they have), heating it over a candle and stretching it like sprue. Takes a little while to get consistent thicknesses, but much cheaper than the metal tubing and easier to work with.
After having the same problem having to constantly deburr brass tubung, I stumbled onto a wonderful alternative even to having to 'pull' styrene tubing: polyimide tubing, available on Amazon as well as other sources. It's stiff yet flexible, and cuts cleanly and easily with hobby knife or single-edge razor blade. Even 'chopping' it against a hard surface, it springs right back to its tubular shape.
Best of all -- for rigging use -- is that it's thin-walled enough to be close to scale, and slick like teflon so it's easy to thread line through. I use CA as an adhesive, never had any problems.
ADDENDUM: Just had a quick look on Amazon, and the vast variety of sizes and inexpensive short lengths that used to be available seem to have disappeared. Polyimide is used both in medical and industrial applications...but if it's only available now in 'industrial' quantities, that may rule it out as being practical for hobbyists. No bait and switch intended. (Now I'll have to carefully husband my small remaining supply.... )
Greg
George Lewis:
I think that using a little larger diameter gives you a thinner wall thickness as you stretch it. Frankly, I used the 1/8" diameter because I had more of it in my stock. You could give the 3/32" a try. They might sell a rod and tube variety pack as well if you are ordering it.
I have used this tubing before , if you just rock & roll a blade over it very gently it cut's pretty good .
Could you also strip the insulating coating from fine wire (I think you call it fuse wire in the UK), and use that?
The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.
I've used the brass tubing , if you use a knife with barely any pressure it cuts pretty good , with stock and roll motion .
I've cut 3 and 3.5 mm K&S brass tube with a #11 blade. Took a minute or so and a quick ream with the blade tip.
Used a little older blade so I wouldn't dull a new one.
goldhammer I've cut 3 and 3.5 mm K&S brass tube with a #11 blade. Took a minute or so and a quick ream with the blade tip. Used a little older blade so I wouldn't dull a new one.
I do the same, but with a broad tipped blade to slow down wear. Still do get fuzz inside though. But cleaning it out with drill and pinvise is no big thing to me.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
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