What saw do I want?

I also use a JLC saw, it cuts very nicely, no problems with heat build-up although, having said that, I don't use resin, so I can't say how it behaves with that.  I use mine for removing clear parts from the sprue without them crazing/clouding, and for general modelling work.

I have a larger, heavier-duty saw which fits into the bigger plastic X-Acto-type handle, and resembles a woodworker's dovetail saw, leaves a much wider kerf.  I've had it since I was about 15, can't remember the last time I used it.

I can also recommend the JLC-style saw.  I got the one the CMK makes, in a kit with a plastic handle, but the various makers seem to have standardized the blades, so they all fit the handle.  It has a very fine kerf, and so yes, it's excellent for removing resin pouring blocks, as others have mentioned, or for other fine cuts, such as cutting apart a figure for repositioning.

Having said that, I must add that I still have and use 3 different X-Acto razor saws, too.  I have a #35, which has the finest number of teeth, a #234, and #235.  Those last two have slightly fewer teeth (per inch, if I had to give a measurement) and produce rougher cuts with more waste (ie, the kerf).  I probably use the #35 the most, after the JLC-style saw.

The JLC saw that Ed posted above is one of the best tools I've bought for the hobby. I have a few other saws for specialized tasks, like resin block removal, but the JLC is my go-to saw for most things.

I have both a Zona type, X-acto version, and one of the PE ones. Which one I use depend on the importance of width of cut.

A tip on the use of the PE type- the lack of offset on teeth creates a lot of friction/heat and makes for blade wanting to stick. I keep blade wet with water, like using oil to saw metal.

Tanker-Builder

EagleCash867;

    Hey here's a tip for you .The saws I use for Scrolling use that blade. I also have one that is .020.This is what I use in my hand saw. Great Blades and doesn't matter which direction you go. 

 

Cutting any direction is exactly why I bought spiral blades.  They make it an effortless process to remove casting blocks from resin parts (such as certain older ejection seat types) that may not necessarily be a straight line.  I also found they cut much quicker than a razor saw, without all the binding that goes along with the larger surface area of a razor saw.

[quote user="Tanker-Builder"

 If you can get the saws that fit in an X-Acto #1 handle. They are actually three thicknesses. Use the thinnest one and go slow. These cut better on the pull rather than the push. You can put them in the handle either way. The Kerf or slot is no thicker than a Business card.

[/quote]

While a saw blade which fits an Xacto #1 handle will work,   the width of the saw blade is the same (+/-) as an Xacto knife blade.    A finer option is a JLC Razor Saw

This is a blade the size of a double-edge razor blade with fine teeth on both sides.    Being wider, the cut doesn't wander as much as an Xacto knife-saw.  The blade is also thinner than a straight Xacto back saw.  JLC-type saws are also commonly used to restore sanded-down panel lines.

I got mine from UMM-USA.

Review on Internet Modeler here 

http://www.internetmodeler.com/2006/september/new-releases/tool_saw.php

EagleCash867;

    Hey here's a tip for you .The saws I use for Scrolling use that blade. I also have one that is .020.This is what I use in my hand saw. Great Blades and doesn't matter which direction you go. 

Hi;

 If you can get the saws that fit in an X-Acto #1 handle. They are actually three thicknesses. Use the thinnest one and go slow. These cut better on the pull rather than the push. You can put them in the handle either way. The Kerf or slot is no thicker than a Business card.

I use a jeweler's saw with an 8/0 spiral blade.  Cuts quickly and has a very narrow path of material removal.

Why are you cutting off the nose?