Food Dehydrator for paint drying

Eagle I use Testors enamel thinner (red can) and after that runs out I have some aritst paint thinner I got from Hobby Lobby or I can use LT. 

I have NEVER had enamel paint lift only acrylics like Acryl and Vallejo. Those will not lift if sprayed over enamel or lacquer.

plasticjunkie

A week for Model Master enamel to dry? I'm working on a 1/32 Dora commission and I shot the Model Master paint yesterday and masked today, removed the masking tape after painting and no lifting issues.  I have masked Tamiya paints within the hour of spraying with no lifting when the tape was pulled.  Maybe it's the hot Florida temperature that helps?

I'm talking about the amount of time it takes before you can do prolonged handling in one spot without burning fingerprints into the paint.    Masking hasn't really been much of an issue, just the burn-in problem with fingerprints on the Testors enamels.

Its been hot here lately, and its always dry and high.  Doesn't seem to help with the burn-in problem.

Are you using lacquer thinner or paint thinner with your Model Master paints, PJ?  I'm using paint thinner at the moment, so maybe that's the difference?  I suppose I could use lacquer thinner to thin it for the airbrush and try that.  Still want to use paint thinner when I brush paint it though.  One of the cool things about doing that over the MRP paint is that I get no lifting/mixing of the MRP when I put Testors on top of it, and I can completely remove errant paint with the paint thinner without doing any damage to the MRP underneath.  I was actually able to paint some Testors flat yellow stripes right over the black MRP paint on the side handles on my Martin Baker Mk. H5 ejection seats that I just finished today.  Never been successful at hand painting a bright, light color over black before.

Eaglecash867

 

 

Greg

I have decided that waiting for paint to dry is a real fun-killer for me in this hobby. I'm already using MRP and that's sort of why I got the dehydrator, having lost my patience waiting for everything else! That said, your message recieved, and you are right.

 

 

I still have an Oster toaster oven that I bought a few years ago to use as a drying booth since we use one at work for the same thing on small parts that we paint.  Shortly after buying it, I tried MRP...the toaster oven is still pretty much brand new...never used it.  Wish I had been able to mix some MRP to make the corrogard paint I just airbrushed onto my F-4B wing leading edges last week, but I had to use Model Master enamels for that because I'll be brush painting the leading edges of the engine intakes with it.  If I could have done that, I wouldn't have had to wait a week for the Model Master paint to fully cure. 

 

A week for Model Master enamel to dry? I'm working on a 1/32 Dora commission and I shot the Model Master paint yesterday and masked today, removed the masking tape after painting and no lifting issues. 
I have masked Tamiya paints within the hour of spraying with no lifting when the tape was pulled. 

Maybe it's the hot Florida temperature that helps?

Tojo72

I never sanded Vallejo Primer,but I have successfully used their Dunkelgelb Primer as a base coat with Tamiya sprayed over it for the other colors in a Tri-Tone Camo.

 

Note worthy info, thanks for that !

Tojo72

I never sanded Vallejo Primer,but I have successfully used their Dunkelgelb Primer as a base coat with Tamiya sprayed over it for the other colors in a Tri-Tone Camo.

 

There's a good idea. As I said, I don't use it, but I do love the finish, detail enhancement, and self leveling.

I never sanded Vallejo Primer,but I have successfully used their Dunkelgelb Primer as a base coat with Tamiya sprayed over it for the other colors in a Tri-Tone Camo.

Greg

I'm amazed at your report about the Vallejo Surface primer. I've never read of anybody being successful in sanding the stuff.

I'd caution that it was only a single test and the results with sanding may have been a freak accident.

I have primed several pieces of the model I am currently working on (no sanding) and the durability of the coat is definitely much higher.

oldermodelguy

It's exciting whenever we step out in faith and things turn out so well.

Seeing the examples others in thes forum taking those leaps has made it easier for me to do so.  Each one has been rewarding in it's own way.  Even the ones that didn't quite turn out

I haven't personally used Vallejo primer but every review points to it being non sanding. And they all air dried the primer and at that I don't believe any gave it 24 hours air dry time as Vallejo themselves say should be the standard for the primer. So indeed that's a surprise to me too that it was sanded smooth as reported here after heat drying.I'll probably still use Mr Primer Surfacer and Stynylrez primer though. I'm familiar with their capabilities and have no reason to look beyond them other than the curiosity factor..

PhoenixG

Thank you Greg for starting this thread (even though I didn't use a food dehydrator)!

You're surely welcome. I'm as thrilled as you are with my new machine. I don't put off paint jobs anymore, dreading the drying time. (that makes no sense, I know.....but it's how my ditzy mind sometimes works). I'm glad you were incented to make a drying box....gives me somebody to share my enthusiasm with.

I'm amazed at your report about the Vallejo Surface primer. I've never read of anybody being successful in sanding the stuff. That sure adds credence to OMG's comment directly above (about dehydrator/drying box effecting more than just drying time)

PhoenixG

I've started curing all my Space Sub's parts in it since completing this test.  Fingers crossed the results are consistent.

That's exactly the point we are stressing I think,that by using the heated drying boxes of whatever iteration that results are not just faster and stronger curing of paint, but more consistently so. Congrats on your rig working well for you ! It's exciting whenever we step out in faith and things turn out so well.

Greg

Do you have the lightbulb on a dimmer so you can control the temp? (That is Don's (Missileman's) idea, not mine)

There's no dimmer on it.  It's full power on.  I left a couple of small gaps by the handle punch outs at the top.  Ostensibly to promote airflow and allow some of the heat to escape.  Luck was on my side as I hit 110F right off the bat.

Greg

I'd be very interesting in hearing your results testing Vallejo Surface Primer against other primers. As I said, aside from the fantastic leveling and detail preservation, I was never able to get it to adhere very well nor sand it. I've always wondered if maybe I got a bad bottle all of those years ago.

I've had the exact same problems with Vallejo primer as you.  It wasn't the bottle either.  I've used primer from three different colors and bought across different years and whenever I tried to sand it the primer peeled rather than sanded.  The results with the drier were the first time I had been able to successfully sand a part and even get the edges to feather! 

I've started curing all my Space Sub's parts in it since completing this test.  Fingers crossed the results are consistent.

It holds 110F very consistently.  If I were to add a shelf to it and get to 8" from bottom the temp rises to120F consistently.

I took a sprue and painted it with primer and cut it in half.  One half went in the Bulb powered dryer and the other half sat out.  I let them cure for a solid 12 hours.

The sprue in the dryer came out with a very smooth dull finish.  The one that dried outside had a tacky feel to it and a slight sheen. 

Running the edge of my thumbnail along the long stem.  It scuffed the dried part but lost no paint.  Same test on the air dried part took chunks out.

Applied the sander to the heat dried part and the primer came off with some effort in a beautiful powder.  That was a first for me! 

The other sanded off as well but left chunky black bits in the sander.

New favorite painting tool is my cobbled together heat box! 

Thank you Greg for starting this thread (even though I didn't use a food dehydrator)!

Eaglecash867

 

 

oldermodelguy

Don or anyone interested: On another note, Amazon lists incandescent bulbs from 15-500 watts or more.

 

 

You can also find ceramic heat emitters with a pretty wide range of wattages that screw into an ordinary light socket.  Used those for my reptiles when they were babies.

 

Great!  Thanks.

oldermodelguy

Don or anyone interested: On another note, Amazon lists incandescent bulbs from 15-500 watts or more.

You can also find ceramic heat emitters with a pretty wide range of wattages that screw into an ordinary light socket.  Used those for my reptiles when they were babies.

OP: I would think 110f would be fine for most things including enamels. If it maintains that temp and has air movement you should do well with it. You will know as you get to using it more.

Don or anyone interested: On another note, Amazon lists incandescent bulbs from 15-500 watts or more.

PhoenixG

 

 

Greg

You probably know this, but although I think Vallejo adheres pretty well (for an acrylic, that is .......if allowed to cure), I always use a good primer under it. Tamiya, Stynylrez, Mr Surfacer, etc. I've never had great luck with Vallejo surface primer.

 

 

I've only ever used the Vallejo primer.  And while it can improve adherence I can't say that it's anything great.   My first test will be against the plain primer.

 

 

Greg

I still use Vallejo because it self-levels like no other acrylic I've used, and the good color selection. (not to mention that I went goofy buying the stuff back in '13 when I got back into the hobby).

 

 

My journey was similar.  Vallejo is what I picked up when I started thinking about resuming the hobby in '19.

 

 

Greg

Hope you let us know how the dehydrator/dryer experiments work out.

 

 

I just finished cobbling together a ghetto dryer out of a spare cardboard box and parts from an old heat lamp.

It's a 60w bulb in there now.  Let it run for about 4 hours while keeping it under observation.  The socket is ceramic so very little heat transfer from that.  Cardboard is showing no signs of discoloration and it held at 110F about 3" from bottom.   Air flow is going to be ok given it will draw cooler from the bottom and vent the hottest at top where the bulb is.

Ready to paint some parts and give it a whirl!

 

My 60W drying booth also runs at 110.  For a few things I'd like it a little hotter.  Been looking for a 75 W incandescent bulb- hard to find!

Drying booth looks good. Let us know how it works out as your tests progress.

Do you have the lightbulb on a dimmer so you can control the temp? (That is Don's (Missileman's) idea, not mine)

I'd be very interesting in hearing your results testing Vallejo Surface Primer against other primers. As I said, aside from the fantastic leveling and detail preservation, I was never able to get it to adhere very well nor sand it. I've always wondered if maybe I got a bad bottle all of those years ago.

Greg

You probably know this, but although I think Vallejo adheres pretty well (for an acrylic, that is .......if allowed to cure), I always use a good primer under it. Tamiya, Stynylrez, Mr Surfacer, etc. I've never had great luck with Vallejo surface primer.

I've only ever used the Vallejo primer.  And while it can improve adherence I can't say that it's anything great.   My first test will be against the plain primer.

Greg

I still use Vallejo because it self-levels like no other acrylic I've used, and the good color selection. (not to mention that I went goofy buying the stuff back in '13 when I got back into the hobby).

My journey was similar.  Vallejo is what I picked up when I started thinking about resuming the hobby in '19.

Greg

Hope you let us know how the dehydrator/dryer experiments work out.

I just finished cobbling together a ghetto dryer out of a spare cardboard box and parts from an old heat lamp.

It's a 60w bulb in there now.  Let it run for about 4 hours while keeping it under observation.  The socket is ceramic so very little heat transfer from that.  Cardboard is showing no signs of discoloration and it held at 110F about 3" from bottom.   Air flow is going to be ok given it will draw cooler from the bottom and vent the hottest at top where the bulb is.

Ready to paint some parts and give it a whirl!

oldermodelguy

 

 

Greg

 

I recently bought some and honestly wasn't aware of this. Thanks for the heads-up, I will do some reading.

 

 

 

 

Don't panic about it and use common sense, use an organic particulate mask good for solvents, latex or whatever gloves, safety glasses or goggles and your booth. You'll be fine. But the isocyanates in the activators can enter through skin and eyes even in the curing process until the paint kicks. Unwary don't realize this and might spray the stuff regularly with just a dust mask and improper venting and those folks are my concern..One shouldn't try to beat or cheat the system in this case. I think your reading will support my claims.

 

Thanks for the additional info.

I almost regret the purchase. Not sure I need anything that durable, and even though my vent/exhaust system is extremely good, I don't think I need to be using such nasty stuff in the same house as my wife, for medical reasons.

missileman2000

Gee, the main reason I go to liquid (solvent) glues is to slow the drying time

I use them for all styrene to styrene assembly.  Nothing else makes a permanent weld...but...I already covered that.

Greg

 

I recently bought some and honestly wasn't aware of this. Thanks for the heads-up, I will do some reading.

 

Don't panic about it and use common sense, use an organic particulate mask good for solvents, latex or whatever gloves, safety glasses or goggles and your booth. You'll be fine. But the isocyanates in the activators can enter through skin and eyes even in the curing process until the paint kicks. Unwary don't realize this and might spray the stuff regularly with just a dust mask and improper venting and those folks are my concern..One shouldn't try to beat or cheat the system in this case. I think your reading will support my claims.

oldermodelguy

No but you should keep what you have, Greg. Cabinet style is nice.

No worries, I won't. I got mine downstairs in plain sight without incident. Not interested in pressing my luck.

oldermodelguy

What bothers me is two part paints, actually scares me they offer them for home hobby use. I all but ate regular enamels in 1/1 but when all the warning bulletins came around on two part catalyzed paints I took them to heart.

I recently bought some and honestly wasn't aware of this. Thanks for the heads-up, I will do some reading.

Greg

 

Do you ever worry about putting food in the same space where solvent vapors have been floating around? I've been perusing about this for a couple of weeks now. No big deal, it's just how my mind works...curious.

 

No but you should keep what you have, Greg. Cabinet style is nice.

What bothers me is two part paints, actually scares me they offer them for home hobby use. I all but ate regular enamels in 1/1 but when all the warning bulletins came around on two part catalyzed paints I took them to heart.

Eaglecash867

 

 

Greg

Which reminds, keep forgetting to ask. Will a dryer/dehydrator speed up regular plastic cement drying time? I would think no, since the joins are internal (well, mostly)

 

 

Seems like it might shorten the time a little bit.  I would think the higher temperature would accelerate the evaporation of the solvents.  Whether that would be a good thing or a bad thing, however, is another story.  It might serve to weaken a cement weld by not giving it enough time to work.

 

Gee, the main reason I go to liquid (solvent) glues is to slow the drying time

oldermodelguy

By the way this is the airfryer dehydrator I use, dry paint by day cook pizza by night, bake scallops for Sunday dinner lol. $165 at Amazon right now:

 

Nice.

Which reminds me what a ditz I am. I'd been hinting at a countertop air fryer for a long time, but my domestic partner has used her veto power. I bought a large dehydrator, similar to yours but it is a dedicated box.

I had since realized I should have gotten a combo unit as you did.

Do you ever worry about putting food in the same space where solvent vapors have been floating around? I've been perusing about this for a couple of weeks now. No big deal, it's just how my mind works...curious.

By the way this is the airfryer dehydrator I use, dry paint by day cook pizza by night, bake scallops for Sunday dinner lol. $165 at Amazon right now:

Eaglecash867

 

 

Greg

Which reminds, keep forgetting to ask. Will a dryer/dehydrator speed up regular plastic cement drying time? I would think no, since the joins are internal (well, mostly)

 

 

Seems like it might shorten the time a little bit.  I would think the higher temperature would accelerate the evaporation of the solvents.  Whether that would be a good thing or a bad thing, however, is another story.  It might serve to weaken a cement weld by not giving it enough time to work.

 

That's a good point.

Greg

 

 

oldermodelguy

Hah ! I NEVER STOP TESTING as it's a hobby in itself for me, seriously !

 

 

Interesting you mention that. As I've been messing with paints and techniques and the new dehydrator and lots of plastic spoons the past couple weeks, it occurred to me that I think I enjoy fiddling and testing as much, if not maybe more, than building.

I must say that even that process is more fun with the dehydrator, because of getting to see results faster. I've even taken a liking to square bottle Testors enamel again.

Thanks for your thoughts, always interesting.

 

Yes. I've been decanting and mixing colors in mostly solid pastels and such with the intent of using those in future classic car builds. Namely Rustoleum Painters Touch and 2x spray paints. It's 12oz of paint per can almost ready to airbrush for basically $5. I'm gaing a small collection of these enamels. I add a bit more lacquer thinner and they spray every bit as nice as the little Testors bottles or the old MM enamels. I shoot them through the Paasche H with #3 tip. Great gloss and smoothness for old cars, pretty much a ready to build finish with slight buffing once cured. Well, to my eye anyway.