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Now here's the thing. Make sure you get the originall "Aleen's TACKY glue." It does come in many sizes. I suggest the smallest bottle first. Then that way, you will not have spent a lot if you decide you don't like it. The Bottles are in a range of copper colors. Don't let that throw you off. I think that's because of the plastic used for the bottles.
I have used it for over twenty years now and even though I tried others -Elmers"Carpenter's glue"Etc, I still come back to it. You can trust the consistant quality of the product! When I have used it for canopies I have been very satisfied that when used as a filler around the Canopy(Yeah you can use it that way) as long as the first coat is fully cured. It will NOT lose strength with another over application and half cured with a very wet finger you can contour it as well! T.B.
missileman2000 Tanker-Builder Hi ,Watchman: When I am doing P.E. except for the one helo in the "Soya" kit, I specifically use Aleens "Tacky" glue. Have for years. Now that is one adhesiv I lhave NOT tried. I'll have to give it a try.
Tanker-Builder Hi ,Watchman: When I am doing P.E. except for the one helo in the "Soya" kit, I specifically use Aleens "Tacky" glue. Have for years.
Hi ,Watchman:
When I am doing P.E. except for the one helo in the "Soya" kit, I specifically use Aleens "Tacky" glue. Have for years.
Now that is one adhesiv I lhave NOT tried. I'll have to give it a try.
- Joe the SMG
Thanks, everyone, for the recommendations!
-Drew
Build what you like; like what you build.
Missileman2000;
I think you will find it's perfect. It is soupy,about the thickness of warm store bought pudding. But it sticks good and it's spreadability is what drew me to it. Take a dab on a toothpick and draw it the length of a small rail. Put rail in place and let glue dry. Now, it's installed, can't hardly see it and it paints well too!
Put rails on the Bismark(Lindberg Kit) two years back, back in the box and ignored. Came back to it and although some got bent(Fixed that) there was no other visible damage and yes it's still glued down!
I've had really good results using a clear acrylic such as Pledge Floor Care for attaching PE parts with a relatively "large" surface area that attaches to the model. I also use 2-ton epoxy and UV-curing Bondic, depending on the application. Definitely not a fan of using CA for this, for the same reasons as you have found...not to mention the fact that any excess that comes out around the part is going to be rough and cloudy. I stay away from PVA type glues as well. They seem transparent, until you compare results between them and the other adhesives I mentioned. Anyway, just personal preference...YMMV. Experiment and find which one works best for you.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
Tacky glue such as Aleenes or Elmers is also a pva glue, but it's a little thicker and a little rubbery when dry. PE parts are less likely to snap off with this kind of glue.
Hello!
It can be done. especially worth considering when you are attaching badges on a shiny finish which is often the case for cars and trucks. Then you can wipe off the excess and leave the background spotless.
Another use is something like this:
The PE panels on the botto of the Cobra hull didn't really want to stick with CA, but white glue did the trick all right.
So good luck with your bui;lds and have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
Hi all,
I'm working on a 1/72 scale Sherman tank with a lot of very small PE. I've had some success with thin super glue, but it takes a long time to set.
Has anyone used white glue for the same purpose? This is mostly sticking bits on that dont' have any structural load.
Any advice is appreciated.
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