Glues in general

Joe:

             This is a two month late but cruising post(Trying to cover Ground) I may have missed because of the 504s! You had mentioned glueing Wire to small wooden parts. If it's gluing the end of a wire to a Block on a sail ship do this. take the block and if it doesn't have a groove in its face, do this. Using a micro file, file one(a groove) all around the block. I know they are small, but in sixty five years none of mine have ever failed for the clients.

              Now that you have done that, drill a small hole on one end and make sure it is at the face you need. Now, do you use any Epoxy? I ask because you might want to do all you need at one time. Mix a small batch (it usually has a 5 minute pot, Useability, life) Dip the end of the wire in the Epoxy and insert in the block.Wind the wire in the groove around till you meet the wire end. Bend at a 90 Degree angle and clamp at the base, so the wire will be in the Epoxy as well. Let set up overnight.

            If you did, say 24 of them, you should have 24 ready to use. Sometimes the wire will not set where you brought it around. A wee drop of Gorilla C.A. with setter will solve that. Now,mount and rig as you planned. If you are running to a spar.Wind once around the spar and C.A.it in place.Here's a wee trick I learned. For that finished look you don't want a raw end sticking out. Take a pair of tweezers with teeth on the jaws(Must be pointed though) at the very end of the trimmed wire put just a wee little bend say, less than.050 from the wire and press into C.A. pointing toward the surface you are putting it on. Use set on this. There, No raw ends. Ever Again. You can saturate thread ends and get the same results!     Good Luck!      T.B.

Joe:

             This is a two month late but cruising post(Trying to cover Ground) I may have missed because of the 504s! You had mentioned glueing Wire to small wooden parts. If it's gluing the end of a wire to a Block on a sail ship do this. take the block and if it doesn't have a groove in its face, do this. Using a micro file, file one(a groove) all around the block. I know they are small, but in sixty five years none of mine have ever failed for the clients.

              Now that you have done that, drill a small hole on one end and make sure it is at the face you need. Now, do you use any Epoxy? I ask because you might want to do all you need at one time. Mix a small batch (it usually has a 5 minute pot, Useability, life) Dip the end of the wire in the Epoxy and insert in the block.Wind the wire in the groove around till you meet the wire end. Bend at a 90 Degree angle and clamp at the base, so the wire will be in the Epoxy as well. Let set up overnight.

            If you did, say 24 of them, you should have 24 ready to use. Sometimes the wire will not set where you brought it around. A wee drop of Gorilla C.A. with setter will solve that. Now,mount and rig as you planned. If you are running to a spar.Wind once around the spar and C.A.it in place.Here's a wee trick I learned. For that finished look you don't want a raw end sticking out. Take a pair of tweezers with teeth on the jaws(Must be pointed though) at the very end of the trimed wire put just a wee little bend say, less than.050 from the wire and press into C.A. pointing toward the surface you are putting it on. Use set on this. There, No raw ends. Ever Again. You can saturate thread ends and get the same results!     Good Luck!      T.B.

Hey! Missileman2000!

         How are you doing? I know you posted this two months ago, but I wanted to chime Back in. I do use Gorilla brand Super Glue on my wood projects coupled with Elmers Carpenters glue. This seems to be, for me at least an unbeatable team. Grain End joints always get steel pins or wooden dowels after being sanded smooth and square. If the job is small( like say a model Ship) The dowels are the center 3/4 inch of a round wood toothpick. If it's thinner, out come the Micro Drills and the Bamboo Strips. This works well in any contingency and is tough as nails! 

EdGrune

What wood glue are you using?   Many of the woodworking Youtubes and DYI shows tout the use of carpenter's yellow wood glue.   Properly applied and allowed to dry (overnight or longer) in clamps results in a bond that is often stronger than the wood itself -- with the wood breaking before the joint.   

Cautions are presented about gluing end-grain.    Mechanical fasteners to augment the joint are often used (nails, screws, dowels, finger joints, etc,)   The presenter notes that these are often used to maintain stability until the glue dries,

There are some applications I've seen where they use gel CA with a spray accelerator in addition to the carpenter's glue.   The CA stabilizes the joint until the wood glue dries.

CA glue by itself is good in tension -- where the joint pulls directly apart.   CA is poor in shear strength -- joints where the parts slide.

Gorilla wood glue is great, works well on end-grains.   But because the glue foams as it cures it pushes unsecured joints apart while curing.   Clamping the parts is a necessity

 

 

 

I find it is really necessary when using CA on wood to use a good gel version.  I like Locktite's gel CA.  I also use the yellow carpenters glue for wood.

What wood glue are you using?   Many of the woodworking Youtubes and DYI shows tout the use of carpenter's yellow wood glue.   Properly applied and allowed to dry (overnight or longer) in clamps results in a bond that is often stronger than the wood itself -- with the wood breaking before the joint.   

Cautions are presented about gluing end-grain.    Mechanical fasteners to augment the joint are often used (nails, screws, dowels, finger joints, etc,)   The presenter notes that these are often used to maintain stability until the glue dries,

There are some applications I've seen where they use gel CA with a spray accelerator in addition to the carpenter's glue.   The CA stabilizes the joint until the wood glue dries.

CA glue by itself is good in tension -- where the joint pulls directly apart.   CA is poor in shear strength -- joints where the parts slide.

Gorilla wood glue is great, works well on end-grains.   But because the glue foams as it cures it pushes unsecured joints apart while curing.   Clamping the parts is a necessity

You might need to add additional, mechanical support to the joints you're trying to make by drilling holes, adding metal rods, etc.

Any pictures of what you're specifically trying to accomplish?  That might help people throw some ideas out there for you to try.

In my experience with wood and CA, the wood bonding surface should be saturated with the adhesive and allowed to cure completely first -- which is usually fairly quick on a porous material like wood -- and only then should the bonding to another surface or dissimilar material be done.

Don't know the exact chemistry behind it, but it's seemed to work consistently over the years.

But note: if you are, say, gluing narrow frame ends to narrow frame ends (i.e., joints), you are playing right into CA's greatest weakness, which is generally poor shear strength. It won't take much angular pressure to break a bond like that unless something like a pin is used to strengthen that connection.