homemade putty/filler

Woody,

Tell me more about what you do and how you do it. Sounds real interesting. Right now I pretty much use the standard stuff from the hobby store.

Richard

yeah same here

Well I take a bag of clear tinted plastic silverware, make sure they are styrene. The clear silverware is more brittle than the solid color kind and I think it sets up better as it dries. I chose a clear with tint so it shows up when applied to the model.

1) Get a glass jar with a screw on metal lid. I like to use a 61/2
oz. jar that we get articoke hearts in because it's square and helps with the mixing
2) Cut up your plastic silverware into 1/2" - 1" bits(smaller the better)
3) Pack the bits into your jar about an inch from the top.
4) Fill the jar with M.E.K.(nasty stuff read and follow the precautions on the can!) to about 1/8" under the plastic.
5) Let it sit over night
6) Stir it with a popsicle stick to check consistancy.
6) It seldom turns out the exact thickness you want so add plastic to thicken, or more M.E.K. to thin.
7) Do not put this on too thickly as M.E.K. is a quite aggressive solvent.(By the way M.E.K. makes a great model cement and 1 quart will run you less than $4!)

The plus to this putty is that your just adding more styrene so you end up with just styrene at the joint or seam. My preference is a rather thick putty but I've used it thinned way down to "paint" a masked off area to create a raised panel effect.
I have heard of people puting talcum powder and other extenders to change the way this spreads or to make it a better filler.

Thanks Woody,

Now what is M.E.K. and where do I get it? (Dumb question?????)

Richard

You can do the same thing with sprue - just follow Woody's instructions. I first learned about it years ago (then they told you to use Pactra's liquid glue - it was only 39 cents a bottle). The only problem I have with it is if you are using a thicker mixture, you get a lot of little air bubbles during the application of the putty which show up as pinholes when you go to sanding or filing. Then you have to fill the pin holes.

QUOTE: Originally posted by RSaddlemire Now what is M.E.K. and where do I get it? (Dumb question?????)

That's not so dumb- I don't know what it is either! I would like to know, though...

MEK stands for Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It's a solvent commonly available in hardware stores, usually with the acetone, paint thinner, etc.

It's also a major ingredient of lacquer thinner. But lacquer thinner has some other stuff in it, so I wouldn't recommend it as a substitute for MEK.

I'll admit that my one attempt at this technique didn't turn out too well... I used testors glue in the orange tube as a solvent, and the product came out sort of gummy when dry...

MEK probably is a more appropriate solvent for this.

it is Methyl Ethyl Ketone.
a very serious solvent.
i would not be surprised if our resident safety guy dropped in to tell of the dangers.
let it suffice to say that while i ignore a number of safety procedures,
i don't screw around w/ this stuff!

from http://www.nsc.org/library/chemical/Methyl_E.htm
Health effects:

Methyl ethyl ketone can cause human health effects through inhalation, ingestion, and contact with the skin. Since methyl ethyl ketone is a natural component of some foods, ingestion of food is also a source of exposure. Its health effects are similar to but more irritating than acetone (EW, January, 1992). Its vapor is irritating to mucous membranes and conjunctiva. Exposure can irritate the eyes, nose, and head; it can cause dizziness, fatigue, memory alteration, dermatitis, headaches, nausea, paresthesia of extremities, diminished vision, acidosis, and vomiting. Prolonged exposure can cause central nervous system depression.

see also: http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/methylet.html

and as Woody point out in #7, if you can dissolve plastic dinnerware in it,
it can play havoc w/ your kits in the wrong concentration.
i would not mix this on the work bench or in my kitchen!

sorry, i'll get down now.

i just think the risks outweigh the benefits for MEK.

Thanks to all the posts regarding KTM. William I do appreciarte the medical side of anything that can be hazardous to my health. Looking at all the ramifications concerned I'm going to proceed very carefully in this project if at all. Woody, thanks for the input but you be careful also.

Thanks,
Richard

Safety first most definately More than likely you are already using M.E.K. if you use Ambroid or Tenax-7 solvents in your model building. I used to like to use Testors brand but quit when they changed the concentrations of toulene(very nasty chemical in it's own right) in their liquid cement.
Any way as long as you use good ventilation and don't splash it on your skin you should be fine. I'm a safety officer(and warehouse manager) at the company where I work and must handle the MSDS chemicals books and oversee the labeling and handling of chemicals in the plant. Since I've been in charge of the chemical I've learned to repect them.
For those who are looking for M.E.K. it can be bought at Home Depot for about $3-4 a quart. Like I mentioned earlier you can use it like you use Tenax or similar liquid cements.
As a rule of thumb if a chemical will dissolve any solid, you really, really don't want to ingest, breath, or have skin contact with it. There is always the danger in our hobby, because it is a hobby, to take the chemicals we all use lightly. Be safe guys.

Woody,
I appreciate the back-up.
I was almost expecting someone to tell me to be quiet.
as long as folks know what they are dealing w/, and take precautions,
I don't worry too much.
But I hate to see people expose themselves to possible danger without the facts.
so: use what you like, but know what you are using.
Woody obviously has the facts.
if your name is not Woody, check it out before proceeding.

take care & be safe.

Woody,

Today I went and got me some M.E.K I didn't realize that I had to buy a gallon but I guess it will last me for the rest of my modeling carrer plus the next four or five that have access to my stuff. I'll let you know how I make out. Once again, thanks.

Richard

Wow a gallon! That would last me a very long time indeed. Be sure to store it someplace safe and away from any potential sources of ignition such as pilot lights.
My last batch of goo is done but I might thicken it just a bit more.

Where i used to work we used to use MEK to clean down metal surfaces before bonding, as said before its nasty stuff. Although one guy used to work day in day out with bare hands pulling items out of a barrel.....

Funny how he has webbed toes, is colourblind and ginger, and the most unlucky guy Iknow.... not sure if thats related to the MEK though

i'm so glad you guys brought this up!! a guy at my LHS who gives very good advice told me one day when i was purchasing some tenax to just go down to the local hardware store and buy M.E.K.. he's a great guy and when he sees me coming he greets me with, "hi chris, what can i over charge you with today".!!LOL i forgot the acronym for it by the time i left but now i remember. i have melted jibblets of sprue in a like manner and used it for seem filler. it works ok. thanks guys. later.

Acetone also works - but when I usually mix up some of this goo, I use tenex, ambroid, or the plasti-struct liquid cement mixed with sprue pieces

Noted a thread in another part of the forum that talked about using a mixture of Future and talcum powder - Swanny was experimenting with it and so far seems to work pretty well - If you're worried about using strong chemicals you might give it a try.

Hey scratchbuilt,
Awesome idea on making styrene.. I have a stupid question, but when you make the styrene is it a one time use only or after you make your batch, can you use it over and over? Let me know, Im very interested....

Not to take away from this "Witches' Brew", but there is another way to experiment with filling gaps...without sandpaper!!. It doesn't apply to major putty jobs, but it could be used in minor stuff.
Here you go,

http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/tnt1/001-100/TNT029_Filler_WO_Sanding/tnt029.htm

I have cut an F-14 and an F-100 to build (replicate) a Terran Starfighter from another thread. I am going to "replicate" or "copycat" for the simple purpose of advancing my modeling skills. Pictures soon, but gotta deal with hurricane Frances for now.

Later alligators,
Riö<*>

Man, I haven't heard of anyone using homemade filler in ages. I personally love the stuff. I have a jar on my bench right now. I too use MEK or Acetone. But I typically use old sprues, old toys, I suppose the ocassional fork or spoon. It's hard to use on big gaps and seams, but for a spot filler, nothing is finer. Extremely old school. I love it.

Ted

Just reading the threads concerning MEK. Great idea, but be extremely careful using it and find the WHMIS sheets if you can. I'm an aircraft technician in the Canadian Airforce and we do use it occasionally to clean parts and strip paint. It has been recommended that we actually remove it from the supply system , but a suitable alternative is not available.

Whenever someone is using it in our hangar we actually evacuate the area because of the horrible fumes. If you use it, for your own safety, please use an appropriate respirator. Don't use a simple painters mask, but a full blown apparatus with replaceable cartridges. I'm lucky as the Airforce actually supplies each one of us with one, and I always wear it while spraying models at home. It is one of the more nasty chemicals out there and has been linked to several serious health problems.

Happy modeling,

I like using homemade styrene putty for brushing (stippling in layers is more accurate) into one piece molds. It makes nifty styrene pulls from molds. I generally use liquid plastic solvent to melt the styrene. It dries a little faster.

That post about reaching into MEK with bare hands made me shudder. I got some under my fingernails one time fiberglassing and and it was some of the most intense pain I have ever experienced. I was literally holding back tears.

Okay , homemade filler. This is a great idea.

But can I use it for Zimmerit?? I am sure the texture is correct, but what about setting / drying times.

Thanks for the ideas

Yolev

QUOTE: Originally posted by Yolev Okay , homemade filler. This is a great idea. But can I use it for Zimmerit?? I am sure the texture is correct, but what about setting / drying times.

You know I don't build armor but this stuff "skins" over quickly. I'll bet it could be manipulated before it hardens fully to produce a zimmerit effect. If you try it you'll have to tell us how it worked out.

MEK, too dangerous to use for me. I shave plastic sprue leftovers into a jar, mix with tamiya cement, leave overnight, and use that as putty, but I've only done this twice, and both times, it wasn't a pretty result.

Here is a site that might answer some of your concerns over M.E.K. .
An interesting side note is that M.E.K. is a natural substance that can be found in fruits and trees. It is also a byproduct of cigerette smoking! Yummy

http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts29.html#bookmark06

Anything with an acronym sounds like it has risks associated with it (e.g. VX, C4, etc.). Think I'll stay with the white putty and swap the MEK for my wife's nail polish remover. <- Not literally that is. I like my wife's fingers where and how they are.

You might already be using it! It's a pretty common solvent in putty and that is what liquid cements like Tenax-7 are but in a small bottle marketed to the hobby crowd.

Glad to hear you youngsters using old tricks instead of buying bottles of Mr (fill in the blanks) for this and Mr (fill in the blanks) for that. I think a bottle of Mr (fill in the blanks) cost anywhere from $4 to $6 each. I always thought the best filler for styrene is styrene. It's cheap, sands easily, bonds well to all surfaces, and you can scribe right over it.
Enough already. Get off the internet and go glue that kit that has been sitting still way too long!