Epoxies.....

Hey RR,
I don't know about that "Aves" Stuff!! But I do know that two-part epoxies come with different trying times!! Anywhere from 5 minutes to 2 or 5 hours!? Not sure what is the longest amount of time because I always use the 5 minute two-part
epoxy and have never had a problem. Mainly use it for metal on metal, or metal on plastic!! I also believe you can use epoxy to make water effects on dioramas!But I really don't know anything else about that!! Also Wal-mart has the best deal for expoxies especially the 5 minute one. Every other place I've been I always check the prices!! I'm just trying to help you out with what I know!! I'm curious myself to hear more about the "Aves Apoxie" Never heard of it before!!
Good Luck!! Cheers!!
Kelley

I also have never used the stuff, but I took a look at their website, and here's how I see it:

This stuff probably isn't a true epoxy in a chemistry sense, or if so, it is heavily filled with inert ingredients (not always a bad thing). Basically, it's a much thicker product (claims to have the consistency of putty), which probably makes it good for carving (like zimmerit) and filling.

I think I have seen a similar epoxy available in hardware stores; it looks like two blocks of clay, which you knead together.

My recommendation would really depend on what you are trying to accomplish. If you are trying to make zimmerit, bedrolls, etc., I would say give the stuff or the clay-type epoxy a try. I wouldn't recommend it as a filler; it probably sets up like a rock and takes a lot longer to dry than most putties (like Squadron). If you just want an adhesive, I would go with a more "traditional" epoxy, like you see in the double-syringes available at the hardware store.

As to setting time, that again depends on your requirements. For most applications, 5 minutes is fine, but if you think it's going to take a lot of fiddling to get it just right, you might want a longer pot life. The pot life usually refers to the amount of time you can use the resin from whatever pile you stirred up; the actual bond can take quite a bit longer to cure, depending on how much epoxy is present.

I remember when I got back into modeling after a long hiatus years ago, the hobby had changed totally and I was starting from square one. I remember one magazine recommended using five minute epoxy for gap filling. So, with an 1/8 inch wing-to-fuselage gap, I joined the parts with epoxy and used enough so it would squeeze out the gap and I'd simply sand it off. Ha! I came back a week later and I might as well have been sanding a titanium block with 1500 grit. I even tried a metal file and it wouldn't dent this plain old supermarket epoxy. Learned my lesson on that. I now use it only on vey specific tasks, such as joining white metal parts, and white metal to plastic. Had a similar experience when I was first using superglue for gap filling, right after expoxy debacle. I didn't know CA glues continue to cure into infinity. So, after filling the gap I came back a week later and once again it was hard as the Rock of Gibralter, although a bit more sandpaper friendly, I learned that when filling gaps with it, use it sparingly and sand it down as soon as it dries. Good old Squadron Green or White putty will always do the trick. Just remember it is porous, and needs primer before painting, and that it is mixed with solvent (same as airplane glue), so as the solvent evaporates, it melts the putty making it bond with your model, and at the same time the evaporation causes shrinkage, so use a tiny bit more than you may need. Remember, it, too, gets harder and harder as it ages. Sand it as soon as it's nice and dry.