Hello.
I did not use this yet but, since I'm interested in it I want to share some considerations regarding this system.
The first step is to draw the "original" artwork in the computer, the best options could be a CAD software or any drawing software that can handle millimeters or inches in order to print exactly without distortions.
To print you need an inkjet printer that can handle a good resolution (1200 dpi or higher) in order to get sharp borders, this print is the template that is transfered to the metal sheet.
They provide a laminator machine so you can add the photo-resist film on the metal sheet and you are limited to the size it can handle.
After the metal sheet is laminated you have to "transfer" the artwork using the UV light of the sun or a bulb; as I see it the real advantage of this system is the special ink jet film provided to print the artwork because you need an effective barrier against the UV rays in order to expose the photo-resist only in the areas you dont want to etch and regular transparencies don't provide it.
The developer formula provided take off the photo-resist that was not hardened.
The final step is to submerge the metal sheet in the acid (ferric chloride), you need to heat the acid to a certain temperature and agitate it in order to "etch" the exposed metal areas (in the image there is a tray with a pump connected).
Except for the ferric chloride (which is sold in most electronics stores) you have to buy all the other accessories directly from micromark if you need more, so you have an idea of the cost of each of the photo-etched sets you make.
I have been searching a long time for a practical way to make my own photo sets and, if the ink jet film works as it should then this is the best photo-etching system I know. Like you I'm also waiting for a review.