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seam scraper

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 7:12 PM
If anyone wants to try the glue applicator, now's a good time. Micro-Mark has them in their 1/2 off sale.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81669

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 2:38 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Woody

I have both of those tools and I use the seam scraper quite a bit. It's true you can scrape with the backside of a blade but if the seam is inbetween raised details, you'll like the narrow head of the seam scraper. I think it is less likely to remove too much of the plastic along side the seam.

....my apologies......for any misleading my post caused........Whistling [:-^]
i do possess a seam scraper precisely for the same reasons Woody does......
there's always more than one way to skin a cat or a fish or make seemless a model.....
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 24, 2004 6:18 PM
I haven't used the seam scrapper.
What I use is an old broken miniture triangle file. I used my bench grinder and ground the file teeth off on all three sides about a 1/4" back, on one end. (Make sure you go slow and don't get the metal to hot or you anneal it. Wear googles to protect your eyes.) On the other end I ground the teeth off of two sides and the third side is now a very thin file for small places. The overall length is approx 2 1/2" long and fits in my hand comfortably. I sharpen it on a cheap wet stone you can buy at any hardware store.
It works well for me and you save a few bucks that can be spent on another kit. Scat
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Sunday, October 24, 2004 2:33 PM
I have both of those tools and I use the seam scraper quite a bit. It's true you can scrape with the backside of a blade but if the seam is inbetween raised details, you'll like the narrow head of the seam scraper. I think it is less likely to remove too much of the plastic along side the seam.
I seldom use the glue applicator. It works but doesn't get into as tight a space as my preferred tool. I like to cut off half of the eye of a sewing needle and chuck it into a pinvise. I can load it and set it aside for a second because the tip will be above the bench when laying on it's side. The size of the needle you picked will dictate the amount of glue the tool holds. It is a needle after all so it will go in very tight spots. The glue applicator, which is a medical cruet by the way, delivers it's glue from the flat side of the loop and this has gotten in my way on delicate operations. The modified needle releases it's glue from the tip for very precise placement.

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 24, 2004 10:03 AM
I have the seam scraper and love it. I used it to clear off raised panel lines off of a 2500th scale Enterprise D. Worked beautifully. Much easier to use than scraping sideways with a #11 blade. Just my 2 cents. Oh, and like Berny I bought mine at Micromark too.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Posted by berny13 on Sunday, October 24, 2004 8:38 AM
I have a seam scraper that I bought over 15 years ago. I like it because the edge is not flat, but has a slight curve to it. It is great for scraping round items as it doesn't leave flat spots. I bought mine through Micro Mark and I couldn't do without it.

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 24, 2004 5:53 AM
the CA applicator ought to work since its metal bodied. just run some acetone through it and it should debond any clogged CA. just remember to use the thinnest CA you can get.

as for the seam scraper, rik is right, a #11 blade has served me pretty well. surgical scalpels are very good too.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 24, 2004 3:50 AM
tominator..........
while not having used the seem scraper in your first link......i have experimented with numerous devices and found the non cutting edge of a # 11 exacto blade to more than satisfy my intentions......after bonding part halves together.........gently draw the squared edge (perpendicular to the seem) along the seem with light pressure....making as many passes as required.....it won't remove too much material on each pass and leaves the cutting edge of the blade in tact for its intended purposes......lightly wet sand & polish as required & voila'........you'll be seemless in no time..........
with regards to your 2nd link......i've not used the CA applicator but, i'll wager many have........i like the post-it-note pads & pointy round toothpicks for the one-drop-at-a-time method.........
hope this'll tickle yer curiosity some.............best 'o luck to ya..........
  • Member since
    November 2005
seam scraper
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 23, 2004 10:00 PM
hey just wondering if this tool
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/squ/squ10203.htm is any good? is it better than using a knife? that what i currently do, use a knife, s paper , s sticks or files

and also has anyone tried one of these:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/squ/squ10204.htm
it syas on the website that it can use CA? is this true? coz ive seen something similar and it couldnt use CA...

Thanks!!
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