Need recommendations for glue (cement) and gap filler.

For glue I almost exclusively use Tamiya glues.

For putties I either make my own paste from Tamiya or Gunze putty mixed with thinner or use Gunzes Dissolved Putty.

HTH.

What do you mean by making your own putty? Could you go into a little more detail on your process? It would be very helpful.

scott

QUOTE: Originally posted by dr soggy What do you mean by making your own putty? Could you go into a little more detail on your process? It would be very helpful.

I am not making putty, but a putty paste by mixing putty and thinner.
Thought that it was pretty standard practice.

I heard that Tamiya makes good plastic glue (cement), but also I heard that Testors is good as well.
Which do you guys prefer?
Also, does Tamiya or Testors make any of the fillers?

Wait, I just browsed the "Testors" website, seems like they have everything I need including glue (cement) and filler.
But I am greeted with a choice, Polystyrene & ABS plastic.
Now, I am not a plastic expert, but as I mentioned, I am a 90% Dragon kit guy, what kind of plastic does dragon use? (its gray)
Another thing is the "testors contour putty"

http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1456

I am trying to find a filler to ged rid of the cracks between glues parts "such as soldiers arms, legs, torso and so forth"
Is this it?
Thanks for your time and advice.

QUOTE: Originally posted by BlitzZ Which do you guys prefer? Also, does Tamiya or Testors make any of the fillers?

Never used Testors so there goes my Opinion.

Been using mostly Britfix 77, Humbrol, Faller, Revell and now the Tamiya one.

Tamiya makes a range of putties Tube, Polyester, Epoxy as do msot of the Model supply makers.

BlitzZ,

Due to your question, I am assuming you are a new modeler.

Injection molded kits are usually made from styrene plasic so look for a liquid styrene cement (sometimes called solvent). Avoid the thick gel cements. They are messy. You may be able to find Tenax at your hobby store which is great. Check the bottle to make sure you don't pick one up that is only half full(the bottles sometimes don't have a good seal and will evaporate on the shelf) You will need a small brush to apply the liquid, or a Touch-n-Flow applicator that is a thin glass tube with a needle on the end of it.

As far as putty, I haven't used the Testors contour putty in over 15 years, so unless they changed the recipe, I don't care for it. Squadron makes a green putty that is good and a lot of modelers like 3M Blue spot putty. I believe Testors sells a red spot putty that is similar. Most paint companies have a brand of spot putty that they sell under their name. As Model Museum said, the Tamiya putty is good.

Get a good set of needle files and clean your parts well. I love cleaning parts. I'll sit and watch tv and clean parts all night without ever opening the glue bottle.

Right now for glue I'm using Tenax-7R for most parts and using a Touch-N-Flow applicator (both of which I was fortunate enough to purchase from a LHS, $3.50 for the Tenax and about $8 for the Touch-N-Flow). For the parts I can't use the Tenax on, I'm using the slow-cure CA glue (otherwise known as Zap-A-Gap, I bought the LHS-Branded stuff).

For putty, I've got Squadron Green putty, thinned with a few drops of Testors #3502 plastic cement (in a clear bottle with a brush applicator attached to the cap, 1oz bottle). Once the Squadron is gone, I'm going to give the Model Master's putty a shot, thinned with the same Testors cement. These products have worked well for me this far. Good luck and have fun!

I use Testor's non-toxic cement. As people have said, it's somewhat messy compared with liquid cement, but it's no big deal if you use it sparingly and carefully. Anything you can do to reduce the toxicity of the chemicals you use in modelling is a VERY good thing.

I use both Testors liquid cement (the one in the black casing), the tube kind (red or gray - nontoxic) is much too thick from my experience. I also use Tamiya thin glue, I like it better than Tenex cause it doesn't evaporate as quickly. The trick with the thin glue is that you mate the parts and the let it seperate a little and use capillary action to draw the glue in. The Tamiya glue uses a brush so you don't need something like the touch'n flow. The Testors I find is good for general bonding and is thicker. I also use CA glue (crazy glue) for certain applications, and for bonding non plastic pieces its a requirement since the other glues work by 'melting' the plastic.

For putty, I've tried testors and find it to be lacking. I use Squadrong white putty, find it easier to paint over compared to the green one.