ok...i am new to this forum.....NOT to painting or models. i was a union painter2 for ten years and i can tell ya the problem with enamels is they are susceptible to oxygen.
for my rarely used colors, such as turn signal amber, or rubber, or rust, or mud, or whatever, i use a film of saran wrap or a wrap of teflon tape around the bottle tops.
i also drop in two to six plain brass BB's when i buy the paint....just like a rattle-can, this helps to keep the paint mixed....just shake every so often.
sometimes my paints get a "mother" on top when they try to dry out....a toothpick around the edges of the mother and a pair of tweezers can remove it, but i recommend thinning the paint with a small amount of xylene before using it. paints require several components to work right...a base, usually oil,or in modelling, alkyd resin ( a milk based product) then a pigment such as iron oxide(rust) then a carrier such as mineral spirits to thin the mixture for brushing or spraying.....as a modeller, all you must remember is that model paints usually thin with an oil based thinner such as mineral spirits. xylene is a faster drying agent. tolulene is even quicker. laquer thinner is faster yet. and methyl-ethyl-ketone is fastest. rubbing alcohol, and MEK are about the fastest thinners one can use......BUT......shine suffers with the quickness of thinners. thin a gloss enamel with mineral spirits and it will be shiney....but the same paint thinned with laquer thinner will be matt to dull in appearance when dry.
in short, to reduce drying out, slow the thinner and reduce the oxygen or air....to speed it up, increase the thinners speed and open up the windows.....but lose the shine.....
get it?
this is my FIRST post by the way....
male, 37, oklahoma.....many models to my credit....and a ten year career credits my painting skills.....will answer questions from ANYONE.