- Member since
November 2005
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Posted by Anonymous
on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 2:05 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Kolja94
Originally posted by ckfredrickson
In response to Kolja:
Speaking of thinner though, I read in an article in Model Railroader (sister mag to FSM) that someone uses an orange based cleaner, even for "solvent based" paints. That was the wording in the article, I'm not sure if the author specifically means paint such as MM and Floquil. I don't have the magazine handy, so I can't specify the brand of cleaner mentioned, but I'll try to find it.
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i think i have seen some of this stuff at my lhs, it was all natural, made from oranges... not 100% sure tho, it may have been glue, but im 100% sure it was one or the other....
by the way, im looking at buileding my self a booth very soon, and here are some links ive come across which u may find helpful...
http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=23&CurPage=1
http://www.rachelspages.com/calypso/html/booth.htm
http://www.interlog.com/%7Eask/scale/tips/booth.htm
http://modelpaint.tripod.com/booth2.htm
the 1st and last ones are pretty comprehensive ( actusally i think theyre the same) and between all 4 u should get a good idea of what is needed to make ur own....
good luck, and if u do decide to build one, let us know how it goes!!!
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- Member since
December 2002
- From: Oak Harbor, WA
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Posted by Kolja94
on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 7:47 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by ckfredrickson
In response to Kolja:
I personally don't vent my booth outside... the geometry of my apartment simply doesn't allow it.
I personally haven't noticed any issues with fumes. That could be because my sense of smell isn't too good. But I used to use a plain cardboard box, and I would say that the 1520 significantly reduces the amount of fumes released.
I have commented a couple of times in other posts that it may be slightly underpowered; operating with the airbrush full open is a no-no because clouds of paint come back out. Haven't even considered using spray cans because of this.
I have used both enamels and acrylics. The harshest solvent I've used is low-odor paint thinner; don't have the guts to try lacquer thinner since I'm not venting outside, though it would probably solve some of my clean-up problems.
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With the house being brand new, I suspect the smell of new carpet and paint might give paint fumes a run for the money.
Speaking of thinner though, I read in an article in Model Railroader (sister mag to FSM) that someone uses an orange based cleaner, even for "solvent based" paints. That was the wording in the article, I'm not sure if the author specifically means paint such as MM and Floquil. I don't have the magazine handy, so I can't specify the brand of cleaner mentioned, but I'll try to find it.
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- Member since
February 2005
- From: Cleveland, OH
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Posted by RadMax8
on Saturday, April 9, 2005 11:18 PM
I use a cardboard box and a repirator lol
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- Member since
April 2003
- From: Halfway back to where I started
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In response to Kolja:
I personally don't vent my booth outside... the geometry of my apartment simply doesn't allow it.
I personally haven't noticed any issues with fumes. That could be because my sense of smell isn't too good. But I used to use a plain cardboard box, and I would say that the 1520 significantly reduces the amount of fumes released.
I have commented a couple of times in other posts that it may be slightly underpowered; operating with the airbrush full open is a no-no because clouds of paint come back out. Haven't even considered using spray cans because of this.
I have used both enamels and acrylics. The harshest solvent I've used is low-odor paint thinner; don't have the guts to try lacquer thinner since I'm not venting outside, though it would probably solve some of my clean-up problems.
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- Member since
November 2005
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Posted by Anonymous
on Thursday, April 7, 2005 11:47 AM
I have a 1520 and I have the option to vent it outside or not, depending if the weather is rainy (I vent through a window) I have found that the filters do fine even if you cant vent outside, they make the smell much more bearable, but if you can, vent outside. My wife says i just dont notice the smell:-) I ude dryer hose to vent mine.
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- Member since
December 2002
- From: Oak Harbor, WA
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Posted by Kolja94
on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 12:50 AM
ckfredrickson - timely words! I'm looking hard at the MicroMark version and was wondering about that downdraft/charcoal filter bit - I wasn't sure if it needed outside venting and if it did just how I'd manage to pull that off....
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- Member since
May 2003
- From: Right side of the Front row.
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Posted by kirk4010
on Monday, April 4, 2005 7:29 PM
Check out the Pace, this was my X-mas present to myself
http://www.pacepaintbooths.com/pace/
The art of war is simple enough. Find out where your enemy is. Get at him as soon as you can. Strike him as hard as you can, and keep moving.-Ulysses S. Grant
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- Member since
March 2004
- From: Placerville, CA USA
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Posted by Mark Joyce
on Sunday, April 3, 2005 9:23 AM
Welcome to the forums!
I also have an Artograph spray booth, and purchased mine from dixieart.com. They come in two sizes, depending on your need and budget. I'm quite happy with it. More expensive than building one, but no matter what I'd recommend using both a spray booth and a respirator while airbrushing, especially if you plan on using enamels.
Mark
Ignorance is bliss
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Posted by techos
on Friday, April 1, 2005 3:34 PM
Try the Tony Matello's links on the web ,there is a good site
with drawings and references to "Do it yourself".A spray booth is very expensive
and it's possible and not so difficult to built one with a kitchen ventilator fume
and wood (i have built one )
Best regards P Medard
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- Member since
April 2003
- From: Halfway back to where I started
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I use an Artograph 1520 with a metal hood. It's a downdraft model, meaning that the air is drawn through the bottom of the hood. It's also got a charcoal filter on it so that exhausting outside isn't entirely necessary, though still recommended.
The bottom part was purchased from Bear Air for ~$200 (MSRP at the time was ~$280). Note that in this configuration, only a cardboard hood is included. I bought the metal hood from Madison Art for ~$65 if I remember right. However, this was about 18 months ago, and I'm sure the prices for both have gone up since then.
The 1520 is also sold under slightly different names by Micro Mark (~$400?) and Testors (Testors 1520, MSRP ~$500). In my case, it was cheaper to buy the two pieces separately, but you may find different.
As far as I know, if the ventilation on your hood is adequate, then a respirator isn't necessary.
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- Member since
September 2004
- From: Utereg
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micro mark sells different types of spray booths, I don't know if they are good, they will not ship them outside the US
You will also need a respirator to really protect your lungs!
And last, but not least, to the forum. You might want to put this question on the airbrush section of the forum, the true specialistst are overe there!
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- Member since
November 2005
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Spray booth for Airbrush painting
Posted by Anonymous
on Thursday, March 31, 2005 8:59 PM
Hi All,
I just received my first airbrush as a b-day gift. I have never used an airbrush, and realize it is best to use a spray booth or fume hood. Can anyone recommend a vendor or a particular spray booth? Please provide contact information for the vendor.
Thanks,
Chris
South China, Maine
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