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mounting a milling machine chuck

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  • Member since
    November 2005
mounting a milling machine chuck
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 28, 2005 1:29 PM
Well, I got my shiny new Microlux milling machine, and some end mills and collets.
It was mostly already assembled. I adjusted the gibs on the X-Y table to
take out a tiny bit of play I noticed, put in the arbor shaft, and fired it up.
Works fine.

Besides using end mills and collets,
it comes with a drill chuck, which mates on the end of the arbor shaft. But it is just a press fit. I asked Micro-Mark about this, and they said, yes,
that's all it is. You push the tapered end of the arbor into the back of the chuck, open the chuck jaws all the way, put it on a block of wood and rap the arbor shaft a few times with a wooden mallet, and it will stay in place.

My question (dumb as it sounds) is, REALLY??? You mean if I put bits in that chuck and drill, or grind, or even, say, put a Dremel cutter in it to do some shaping, that chuck isn't going to fly off the end of the arbor?

I'd appreciate advice and experiences on this one, to be sure. I'm a definite newbie at this.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 28, 2005 1:36 PM
chucks have been mounted with a morse taper fir since the year dot, have no fear, put it on, give it a sharp tap and it won't come off
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 28, 2005 4:03 PM
I feel compelled to reply to my own post, just in case anybody reads this and gets the wrong idea. I'm very new to this, so I'm sure other milling newbies look through this forum, too.

The drill chuck will indeed keep itself on just fine, for drilling and other similar work.

But it's a bad idea to depend on it to hold end mills and do any milling with it. Most of the advice I've read around the web indicates that not only is this inaccurate because there is simply too much play in a drill chuck, but the lateral pulling on the chuck from the milling will indeed pull it off the arbor (and ruin your work, or harm your body, or both, in the process!)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 28, 2005 4:42 PM
your talking about two different things, unless I'm mistaken? A:how the chuck is held in and B:how the chuck is used for milling, is that right?
A standard key or keyless chuck will give poor milling performance, they should be taper locks, the mill goes in the collet, which tapers into the shaft of the milling machine.
If the kit you have, uses a standard "drill" chuck to hold the bits, then it's a drill press, and not a true mill, and yes unless your carefull, you'll knacker the press and possibly yourself in the proccess.
Sorry if I was confused and/or confusing,lol
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 29, 2005 10:01 AM
This is a true mill. It has a tapered sleeve, and is designed to take collets or end mill holders. But it also happens to come with a tapered arbor and a chuck, so you can mount that in there for drilling if you want. One end of this arbor
has an MT-3 taper to mount in the mill, and the other end has a JT33 taper to mount into the JT33 chuck they packed with it.

I agree, a chuck will not perform well in a mill.

Having said all that, I whacked the arbor into the chuck, mounted it in there, and it works great. But it's clear that it would have too much run-out for precision milling.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Saturday, July 30, 2005 9:17 AM
As far as your concerns on the excess runout on the chuck is concerned, you may be right. However, I would bet the problem isn't in the mounting system, rather in the chuck it's self. It's probably an el cheapo which works fine with a vertical load on it but moves when a side load is placed on it. If extreme accuracy is that important, the only answer would appear to be A. upgrade to a better chuck or B. purchase collets (with the proper mounting taper) which will fit the mills you want to use and use them instead of the chuck. If it were mine, I'd probably go with B.
Quincy
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 5, 2005 3:34 PM
Well, I did a few simple milled slots in steel, using the chuck, and it does indeed work with no problems. But then I got my collet holder and collets and tried that. And of course, there is no comparison. Even with the naked eye, it's obvious
that the collet holder turns truer than the drill chuck. And the milled slot is
definitely cleaner and squarer (which is obvious to anyone who knows about using milling machines, and that sure isn't me!)

And yes, I'm sure the run-out is in the chuck itself. Milling-quality chucks are available, but they cost $300 and up.
I'm glad I invested in the collet set. Excellent results; reasonable cost.

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