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Mini Saw

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Mini Saw
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 4:06 AM
I need to get myself a mini saw for cutting one piece fenders etc but am having trouble finding one.

Can anyone tell me some brand names and sizes that are best for this?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 6:58 AM
Have you looked at MicroMark? They seem to be the major vendor of mini tools for model work, and have several brands of power tools in just about every possible combination. Try looking at

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Department&ID=62
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:10 AM
GlenB - I'm a little unclear about the sort of cutting you're talking about. The type of cut, of course, has a big impact on what saw will be best.

My big interest is ship modeling, and I have lots of uses for straight, precisely-located cuts in pieces of hardwood. I've got a Micro-Mark Variable-Speed miniature table saw for that purpose. There are several similar saws, primarily aimed at ship modelers, on the market. I can't comment on any of the others, but I'm quite satisfied with mine. It does a beautiful job on materials up to about 1/4" thick - especially with the "Accurizer" accessory fence. The motor isn't very big, but I've never jammed it. I believe the same saw is available under several other trade names. The table saw sold by Proxxon, for instance, appears to be identical.

If you don't do a great deal of high-precision cutting, you might well be happy with an 8" or 10" benchtop table saw. They come in a wide variety of price ranges (at least here in the U.S.); the lesser models from Delta, Ryobi, and Sears/Craftsman are considerably cheaper than most of the miniature table saws. Several companies make hollow-ground "satin finish" blades that, even in a relatively cheap saw, make remarkably smooth cuts. The fences and miter gauges on such saws are pretty basic, but if you're willing to spend a few minutes fine-tuning, and make some test cuts, you can get nice cuts from a saw that costs less than 200 U.S. dollars. A saw like that will take up considerably more space than a miniature one; on the other hand, you'll probably find all sorts of non-modeling uses for it around the house.

On the down side, the 10" Delta saw lurking at one end of my workshop always makes me a little nervous. More than one of my friends has mutilated himself to a greater or lesser degree on such a device. I haven't tested this theory, but I think the little Micro-Mark saw would jam before slicing off any of my bodily appendages.

For curved cuts you need something with a skinny blade - either a band saw or a reciprocating scroll saw. The big advantage to the band saw is that, generally speaking, it's more powerful; most band saws also have a bigger capacity than most scroll saws. The big advantage to a scroll saw is that it can start a cut from inside a hole in a piece of stock. (Take the blade out of the saw, shove the blade through the hole in the wood, and hook it up again. That can't be done with a band saw.) I don't have either in my workshop, though I've been thinking about getting one or the other. I have no idea what the Australian power tool market looks like, but here in the U.S. the small band saws made by Delta have a good reputation. Several scroll saws have gotten excellent reviews, including those by Dremel, Delta, and Sears/Craftsman.

Both bandsaws and scroll saws are, by definition, less of a menace in the shop than a table saw. I suppose one could mutilate onesself pretty spectacularly with a bandsaw, but I've never known anybody who's done it. And to damage yourself on a scroll saw would take real determination.

That's about all I have to offer on the subject. Maybe some other Forum members who have experience with other tools will weigh in. Good luck.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 10:51 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jtilley

On the down side, the 10" Delta saw lurking at one end of my workshop always makes me a little nervous. More than one of my friends has mutilated himself to a greater or lesser degree on such a device. I haven't tested this theory, but I think the little Micro-Mark saw would jam before slicing off any of my bodily appendages.

As the owner of a full-sized Delta 10" saw I agree that you can certainly hurt or even kill yourself with one if you use it unsafely. However, I'm pretty sure that you could cut your finger off with the Micro-Mark one just as easily, since a spinning carbide blade doesn't need much force behind it to amputate your fairly soft finger. Even if it jammed once you hit the bone I doubt you'd be very happy. My suggestion is to get a good book on using a table saw and follow the advice. The single most important safety tip is to have a blade splitter behind the blade, as this dramatically reduces the opportunity for kickback, which is the major cause of injury.

Regardless of the size saw, you're going to want a zero-clearance insert to ensure that the wood is supported right up to the edge of the blade. This is most important with thin wood being cross-cut, but also a very good idea for ripping.

Good luck with it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 10:54 AM
The other thing I forgot to mention is that Fine Woodworking does tool reviews in most issues, and I'm pretty sure they've reviewed both scroll and band saws recently. Their material is very good and doesn't tend to suffer from the "all of our advertisers are wonderful" stuff that happens with some magazines. You should be able to find out which issues you want at http://www.finewoodworking.com
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 23, 2005 10:53 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by GlenB

I need to get myself a mini saw for cutting one piece fenders etc but am having trouble finding one.

Can anyone tell me some brand names and sizes that are best for this?
Smile [:)] hello, I hope that I am doing this right, I cant seem to find the reply button any where, so i guess I will try this. answer to your question about the little mini saw that could. i did see a nice little mini saw up for bid on EBAY under the hobbies&toys section. then go to hobby tools and paints i think it was. try that and get back with me so I will know if i was able to send out this reply. By the way it had a nice price to. good luck. Lonnie.Tongue [:P]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 23, 2005 7:15 PM
Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I should have explained better.
I am after a small hand saw for cutting plastic such as fenders on model tanks.
I believe Excel are good but which size blade is best?

Leb68 thanks heaps for the tip. Unfortunately I'm in Australia and the postage kills off any bargain price. Thanks again.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Friday, September 23, 2005 10:32 PM
Most of the handsaws sold in hobby shops are actually pretty good. I'm partial to the Zona brand, which is made in the U.S. and has unusually fine teeth. But I can't recall having encountered a hobby saw that wouldn't do a good job of cutting plastic.

I guess what you're talking about is a razor saw. For the sort of cutting you're talking about, the size shouldn't matter a great deal. One thought: if you're interested in getting good, clean cuts at a 90- or 45-degree angle to the stock, you might want to think about buying a miter box. Several companies make them; they're simple aluminum extrusions with milled grooves that hold the saw blade in line while it slides back and forth. The miter box will probably come in a package with a blade that fits it. If not, just be sure the blade is deep enough to reach the bottom of the miter box.

Some companies (e.g., Xacto and Excel) sell saw blades and handles separately. You may already have a knife handle that will work. If not, and you want to economize, you probably can get along without a handle - but if you have middle-aged, slightly arthritic fingers like mind, the handle will come in handy.

Hope this helps a little. Good luck.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 29, 2005 8:13 PM
Hello

I found this in another forum, I didn't try this yet but it could be an interesting idea.

http://www.cheesey153.co.uk/razor_saw.htm
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