what tool?

Carbide bits, eh? Here's a good source - Harbour Freight. There is a store locator tool on their web site. I've become a regular at the store near me.

Check this out - a set of 50 microbits for $9.99! At that price, an occasional broken bit isn't so bad.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34640

Bill, carbide is a very hard metal and because of that, any tool made of it is very brittle. For our hobby high speed steel (H.S.S.) is more than tough enough and will flex some without breaking. Try Wholesale Tool for your drill bit needs. I think the address is wholesaletool.com. Hope this helps.

Bill,
I bought a carbide set from my LHS under the X-acto name about a year ago. after breaking two bits on my pin vise, I bought a non-carbide one from ebay for alot cheaper (I dunno if it's because of the material or because it's ebay) just two weeks ago. It comes in a lttle box and contains bits #61- #80 and so far, I've been using it with much satisfaction. I just checked and they are still selling a set (with pin vise). try searching "small drill bits #61-80" and you should find it.

Where can I get a box of those 50 tiny carbide bit drills which are so brittle they break easily? Couldn't find them at Micro-Mark. Or are there any comparable tiny pin drills that can be used either with a pin vise or by hand-twirling that are NOT so brittle which will work as well as the carbide ones? Help!

X-acto also makes micro-saws. Your local hobby shop should have them. The #11 blade solution also works quite well for me.

demono69

Micromark (www.micromark.com) used to offer a set of saw blades that fit the X-Acto knife handle. The saw blades look like No.11 blades but have teeth. They sell (or sold) a set with both coarse and fine teeth. I have the set, and they are great for getting into those tight, fine spots.
Gip Winecoff

I just cut the flaps out of a 1/72 f4f wildcat. used the #11 exacto blade as quoted in the above posts, worked fine if a little time consuming, but a good acurate cut is priceless. If you got the room you might fit a razor blade in the cut and go back and fourth. In larger scales a scriber can work, but I start with the exacto anyway.
Another idea (if the top & bottom wings a seperate) is to drill a hole with a pin vise and bit, insert a jewlers saw blade through the hole connect it to the saw handle and gently saw your way around. All depends on wht scale your in I guess. Also any method you'll see here will allow you the possibility of screwing up the wing or whatever, so have fun, don't make two of yourself (was mom's favorite quote) and don't cuss all of us if it goes south!!!! Ha Ha Ha Ha Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

I just used a scripe (spelling) tool I purchased from Squadron. I used it to remove the dive brakes from a Hasegawa SBD Dauntless. It worked very well. I then replaced the plastic brakes with an after market I purchased. I don't know what it is called but it is great!

Probably best to use the back side of a new number 11 X-Acto blade - but be careful - score very lightly for the first few passes, then get a little more aggressive with the cuts. If you go "hard" from the start, you'll probably run out of the groove, and I can almost guarantee you'll end up with a nice wobbly groove exactly where you won't want it. That's the voice of experience talking..........
Cheers,
LeeTree

ailerons and similar parts, I use a simple knife. Inspection panels and other things like that, I use a drill to 'cut out inside the panel, then a sharp knife to reach the edges of the panel. A new panel is then re-built out of plasticard or the aluminium of a soda can.