looking for new glue!

Hi ;

 I recently discovered a new one . About the thickness of the old Revell Type  "S" . Seems a little thinner though . Has the tenacity of Tamiya glues , is relatively odor free and does not stain the plastic . It's made by Faller for model rail-road use .  T.B.

I know this is an old thread, but i'm still going to contribute 

I used to always only ever every swear by Tamiya Extra Thin. I still love it.

However, i now also use a bunch of other stuff.  One that I now really like using when i need a quicker bond than Tamiya (and not to flash off) is the Revell Contacta in the dark blue bottle with fine metal needle applicator. I think this stuff is fantastic for larger parts that need to bond quickly.

The others I use are:

- Testors Crystal Clear (for canopies);

- CA (for PE/Resin); and

- 2 part clear epoxy (for Resin).

 

 

Seems good to me and the applicator is nice too. Maybe it wasn't out when this thread started but I've had some laying around for quite some time.

model master liquid glue in the square black plastick container with the needle tip applicator is great stuff

Save yourself a lot of money by using lacquer thinner and a medium grade brush.  That is what is in the little bottle of expensive Testors Plastic Cement!  I've been using the same gallon of stuff for years.  Hmmm, I've been using the same little bottle for years too.

well i beg to differ i tend to think ZAP glue is the best

Pro -

I try to keep the inventory down and while I may not have tried everything out there, the Ambriods, both tube and liquid seem to give the best bonds and quick drying times of those I have used. The liquid is used like any other liquid glue (and the bond is scarry soild). The tube glue, while it can get "stringy" it's quite manageable and again strong and pretty guide. For those cases where I "just need a smigdet", I put a drop on a disposable base (usually old soda caps) and then use a tooth pick to apply it. (You might find the tube Ambroid a little hard to find locally - had to go on line for it.)

Also use several CA's (crazy glues), but mostly the Zap-a-Gap gap filling flavor. Elmer Gule All works as well as anything else for clear parts, but I do keep some Testors clar part glue on hand for "repairs".

OK, I do have a few others on the bench, but those are the most used.

 Hope that helps

Archer out. 

The list that Triarius furnished is an excellent one.  I would make one addition to it - IPS WeldOn #3 or its generic name Pleximent (Methylene Chloride) - Check a local plastic supply house.

One thing about buying in bulk is that it's a heck of a lot cheaper.  I don't know about SC-125, but the last gallon of Pleximent I bought (3 or 4 months ago) cost me less than 50 cents an ounce - Vs $2.00 an ounce for the last 2 ounce bottle of WeldOn #3 I bought at the LHS. 

thank you gentlemen for the advice.i to have abottle of cyanacrulate glue but i never thought of using it in other ways.as this point in my hobby career i've only used it for pe parts and for things that i needed to bond right now.once again thanks

Testor's Liquid or the plain Tamiya glue (now comes in an orange labelled bottle). I prefer the Tamiya (what I call Tamiya Thick) to the Testor's. The Tamiya Ultra Thin is brilliant at capillary application, but flashes off too fast for large areas.

Here are the glues I use:

1. SC-125—this is a water-thin solvent cement like the Tamiya you mention. This is a commercial version made by Caseway that I buy in quantity from a local plastics fabricator. It is the same as Tenax 7R, the Testors liquid, and probably the Tamiya and many others. You can do the same from one in  your area. This is applied with either a small, pointed brush or a Touch-n-Flow applicator.
2. Plastruct Plastic-Weld—for butyrate and acrylic plastics. Water thin, applied the same way as SC-125.
3. Methyl ethyl ketone—For very fast, aggressive bonds. I only apply this with a Touch-n-flow, and I don't use it very often. I don't recommend it until you are comfortable with thin solvent cements.
4. Cyanoacrylate (CA) glues in thin, gap filling, and extra thick. I buy either the "house" brand from the LHS or Plastizap. There are others. I don't recommend the household types for modeling. These are applied with a toothpick, a sewing needle with a cut or split eye, and occasionally from the bottle when I'm using a lot of it for some reason. This is also my major seam and gap filler. Get some accelerator to use with it. Accelerator is best applied with a small brush.
   
5. Five and fifteen minute, two-part epoxy for very strong bonds and for resin parts.
6. Sobo Premium Craft and Fabric Glue—Mostly for canopies and clear parts, but it is also a marvelous seam filler in some applications.
7. Micro Kristal Clear—same as No. 6, but not a seam or gap filler except around canopies.

There are others that I occasionally use, but those are for specialized or oddball applications. No doubt others will add their recommendations. You mostly have to try and find what works for you.  Mastering a new adhesive takes a little time and practice. Several decades ago I used only tube glue. Now I don't have any. It's not that it wouldn't be useful, occasionally, but my last tube dried out about ten years ago, nearly full, and I haven't used it since. I remember when Paul Boyer first championed CA as a gap and seam filler. I thought he was crazy—now I rarely use anything else! Took a few days to get the knack, now I'd hate to go back to using putty for everything.